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Everything posted by mthorman

  1. Awesome TR guys! Looks like it was a great trip!
  2. Thanks for the report Wes. I had heard there had been an accident, but didn't know any of the details. I am glad it wasn't any more serious, and I hope your friend makes a full recovery soon. You are so right about the close climbing community. Almost every person I have met up in the alpine is courteous and wouldn't think twice about helping out a stranded or injured climber.
  3. Great job on putting up a new route! The climbing looks really fun and the top and description are great. Way to get after it.
  4. [TR] Prusik - West Ridge 6/15/2013

    Love all the pics. It looks like a fun mellow route!
  5. I think I need a rope. Advice?

    Sounds like you are on the right path. I have owned a couple Bluewater ropes (never the Lightning Pro) and been happy with them. Check out this link too, it looks like the Lightning Pro came in #7. http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Rope-Reviews
  6. Trip: Eldorado Peak - East Ridge Date: 5/18/2013 Trip Report: With a short 2 day window Doug and I decided to give the east ridge of Eldorado Peak a go even though the weather report wasn't the best. We left Spokane at 5am on the long drive to the trailhead. After stopping in Marblemount for a permit we were finally on the trail by 11:30am. The creek crossing was easy and we started up the steep trail in the rain. In the first talus field, Doug had a fight with a rock and lost, leaving a large knot on his leg. We finally reached snow about the 4,000' mark and the going became easier. The weather however continued to shower us with drizzle and then snow once we got high enough. Visibility was often down to 100 ft our less. After several hours of slogging through the snow with no visibility we finally reached the edge of the Eldorado Glacier just as the sun was starting to break through the clouds. We stopped briefly to talk with a few other climbers, but decided to continue on and camp at the base of the east ridge. As we were crossing Eldorado Glacier there was just enough sun and blue sky to get a good look at the east ridge. After a short search we found a level spot for our campsite in the shelter of a rock with the best view anyone could ask for. Unfortunately the sun and blue sky didn't last long and soon it was snowing again. After setting up camp, melting water, and eating our supper it was time to get some shut eye. The next morning we stayed in bed while checking the weather hoping it would improve. But with no improvement we put the crampons on and headed out of camp by 5:30am. As we started up the ridge we immediately found tracks from teams ahead of us. We reached the beginning of the knife edge ridge just as the lead team was starting up it. Since visibility was still low and nobody was sure if the summit was large enough to pass, we waited for that team to summit and then come back down the ridge. Just as we were roping up to start the ridge the clouds cleared and the sun came out. It was perfect timing for us! A couple minutes later and we were standing on the summit looking out above the clouds to neighboring peaks. After a few summit pictures we descended the knife edge and then headed down into the clouds on our way back to camp. W packed up camp and started out with visibility now down to 50 feet. The snow was much softer than the day before even though it was still early morning and without skis the decent was a long snow slog. Finally around 5,000 ft visibility improved. We reached the car just after 1pm and then drove the 6 hours back to Spokane. The following pictures are a mix from both Doug and I. Doug's leg after the fight with the rock. The typical weather and visibility for most of the trip. The east ridge. We camped at the base just below the last rock outcrop. A panorama view from our campsite. Too bad this view was only visible for a few minutes! Starting up the east ridge with climbers above. Doug on the knife edge ridge. Me on the knife edge ridge. Summit shot. Gear Notes: Crampons, ice ax, and rope. Approach Notes: Steep and muddy down low. We took snowshoes but didn't use.
  7. Mt Adams South Climb is Open!

    When I was up last Monday we were post holing from about 6000 ft to 9000 ft. Beyond that the crust was thick enough to hold our weight. However with the nice weather and warm temperatures of late you will probably be post holing above 9000 feet as well. Closest place that I know of to rent snowshoes is in Clackamas at REI.
  8. Mt adams South climb is open!

    Hope you get better weather than we did, Darren!
  9. Mt adams South climb is open!

    Nice! That would have been helpful last week. I was up on Adams last Monday but had to use the alternate trailhead which added a couple more miles and 1500 ft of elevation gain.
  10. Spokane Area

    I am looking for climbing partners in the Spokane area. Weekends sometimes work, but I have lots of time mid week as well. I am up for local day cragging or longer multipitch routes in the Selkirks. I have all my own gear, and lead Trad up 5.9 and sport into the 5.11 range. Comfortable on single or multipitch leading. Looking forward to hearing from some of you.
  11. Trad near Spokane?

    I am assuming by the reference to Liberty Bell that you are looking for longer alpine routes not just a day of roadside cragging. Check out Harrison Peak and Chimney Rock. Both are up in the Selkirks of northern ID and both have moderate multipitch trad routes on them.