mthorman

Cool! I see a checked box on the left for elevation bands....did you make all this? I have often wanted a way to highlight only certain elevation bands but haven't figured out a good way to do it without a huge amount of manual work.

Great job, looks like you had great weather! This brings back many memories from years past.

Looks like a great trip minus the bugs!! Thanks for the stoke. Someday I would love to get in there.

Just FYI, the Cascade River road is closed due to a fire and doubtful it will be open in a week.

Just did a quick check and I would agree with your concerns. Freezing levels are forecasted well above the summit, with it getting warming each day this week (looks like a real heat wave for the weekend). This could definitely lead to some soft snow which makes travel slower. The biggest risk is rockfall.....with the red bands you have to pass on your route there is definitely rock fall potential. Usually climbers accept that risk on the way down because they can pass through an area quickly but being exposed to that risk on the way up because it didn't freeze at night definitely adds to the danger. The other thought is winds. Winds make the potential for rockfall much worse. Windy.com point forecast allows you to compare the different models. 3 out of 5 models are forecasting winds of 35-40mph. The other 2 are more in the 10-15mph range. NOAA point forecast for Shasta is gusts to 50mph for Tues and it dimishes to gusts for 40mph for Wed. So while they aren't in perfect agreement I think it is safe to say it will be pretty windy on the mountain. Those 2 things together (wind and high freezing temps) would make me rethink my plans. Of course that is my decision and everyone is going to have their own. I am just trying to lay out the things that would factor into my decision making. For me if I can adjust my dates and minimize a bunch of risk I often will.

I climbed Glacier in June 18-20, 2020. We had great corn snow a few hundred feet below the summit about 9am. Walked in hiking boots until we hit snow in the switchbacks before meeting the PCT, then skinned from there to where we camped at the base of the mountain. Put crampons on ski boots for the morning ascent and skied down. In general I prefer a lighter boot for Cascades in the summer (June-Sept)....something 3 season like the Scarpa Charmoz or La Sportiva Trango etc.

2nd vote for your phone. In my opinion Gaia has a better phone app than Cal Topo but Cal Topo's website features and layers are way better than Gaia. If you only get one I would say Cal Topo. Either way they are way better than my handheld GPS....it now just sits on the shelf collecting dust.

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I haven't climbed Mailbox Peak, nor have I done Glacier Peak in a day or the Bulger List but I did climb some ice in Banks today. Most routes are not in but we found good ice on the Corner Route at MP 9. Left MBI 1 was also in. The cable and H2O2 are trying but not really close. We climbed U1 and U2 at MP 14. Peewee #1, 4, and 5 all looked in. Zenith wasn't even close although it is trying. Most other lines were either non-existent although a few of the brush routes were trying.

Yea everyone should be commenting. Also just a point to remember that there are actually 2 different proposals. One is for the NPS and the other is for the USFS. You can probably just copy and paste your comment but make sure to hit them both. Both proposals are both linked in the 2nd paragraph of the article above.

Wow! Thanks for posting, and great effort out there. So many things broke or went wrong but you still managed to get it down and have fun in the process!

I am a huge fan of CalTopo personally.

If the money from these permits actually went directly to salaries for climbing rangers, I wouldn't be too upset. But like most government bureaucracy I am sure it will just get sucked into all sorts of special projects.

Thanks for the report! It looks so beautiful over there. I love Caltopo. There are so many great features and it can help so much in the planning of a trip.

I think it might depend on when in the spring. If I were going in early/mid April I would plan on double boots. If it were a mid or late May trip I would lean towards single boots. Sometime late April or early May and I would probably bring both. In 2016 I took Spantiks on a 2 week trip in early May and was happy to have them. In early May 2021 I took both Spantiks and Nepals and never put the Spantiks on as it was a warm trip. However a week prior to the 2021 trip it was -20F and I would definitely have worn the doubles. Personally I am a huge fan of overboots as they definitely give you more latitude in your boot selection. They also work super well to wear around camp over your down booties (it keeps the snow out and the down booties dry).