Luzak00

The Bay Area is an amazing place to live! There is little "good climbing" to be had locally. The aforementioned Pinnacles is a 2+ hour drive. Castle Rock down to the south is a popular crag. There is a bit of bouldering around Berkeley (Indian Rock, Cragmont Rock) that has some great history. Mickey's Beach to the north is another popular spot for bouldering. The local trail running scene is superb--Huddart Park and Windy Hill are in Palo Alto, Rancho San Antonio in Mountain View (next town to the South), and just those three parks within 10 minutes of Palo Alto offer tons of possibilities--the geography of the area will keep a motivated person in shape for any adventures in the mountains. The Bay Area does offer climbers great access to world class climbing venues such as Tahoe (3-4 hours), Yosemite (5 hours to the valley), the Sierra High Country (~7 hours) and Joshua Tree (7 hours). Distance to the north isn't too bad either - the Cascades and Smith Rock are an easy day's drive; Lassen (4 hours) and Shasta (4.5 hours) are volcanoes, but lack the scale that only the North Cascades offer. Year round access to world-class climbing destinations, more climbing variety as anywhere in the US, fantastic spring skiing are the selling points as a climber. You really do sacrifice local crags, but there's nothing you can't do in a weekend trip. As far as planning big objectives for the summer, focus on the Sierra (and Shasta, though the rest of the Cascades are doable as well). Big wall climbing, there's no better place. Distant alpine routes in spades. Superb granite cragging. If ice is your thing, the Sierras have enough to keep you content if you can catch them while conditions are in.

I avoid wind shirts (ala Houdini) when they're likely to get torn up from rock. They're super great pieces, probably the best value per ounce of any piece of clothing for moving fast through variable weather. The Gamma MX won't be as warm nor weather resistant (both in the wind and precipitation departments) as the Houdini + R1 combo, but it is durable, stretchy, and comfy to move in. When I evaluate my shell options for my time out in the mountains, the first question I ask regards durability. A windshirt is the clear #1 choice if it will hold up, but when it might get torn (from rock or tree skiing), I turn to a softshell in the 16-24oz category. I take a Gamma LT for warm weather, low winds, or moving fast, but turn to the Venta MX for supreme weather protection. If your Houdini isn't shedding water, take proper steps to restore the DWR. The first thing I do is give the old DWR a chance by tossing the jacket in the drier on medium-high heat for 20-30 minutes: enough to warm the jacket up for a bit, but not melt the plastic. If you aren't satisfied when doing a shower test, apply some Nikwax/Granger's and make sure to toss the jacket in the drier. Heat is the most overlooked way to care for this type of garment - it's seriously too simple.

Thru-Hiker.com Direct Link is http://thru-hiker.com/materials/insulation.php $39.95 per 3 ounces. 900 fill will be the softest pillow ever.

More or less true. I've found the Gamma LT to be the best of the simple, old-school softshells - it's water resistant, super stretchy, and should last a long time. A shame Dane didn't review it alongside the NW Alpine Big 4, et al. The Gamma SL is a different beast (and better I think, for most uses), and incredibly modern - perhaps more stretchy and a piece that really is invisible in use (in the good way). That said, I don't think these pieces properly replace the Houdini.

Sounds like the "never wet" DWR. I have my suspicions. Schoeller's Nanosphere treatment makes some preposterous claims, too, and my experience with that has been good. Not anywhere near the level they claim, but given realistic expectations, I'm happy with this technology.

Yeah, I do this. Gotten down to the minus teens Fahrenheit. My winter quilt weighs 28 oz - 20oz of that is down. It is warmer than I've ever needed, while being lighter than many 20º bags.

Been too warm recently.

Mono points are for delicate ice structures, where you're more placing rather than kicking, or mixed climbing. I prefer dual points for alpine ice no question, and most water ice. Extra security, less sensitivity.

+1 for Backcountry, REI, etc.'s return policy. I've heard Sportiva isn't the nicest when it comes to these sorts of things.

Phantom Guide is basically equivalent to the Sportiva Batura. A super warm, technical single boot in a lightweight package. Unfortunately, they do take awhile to dry - sometimes you need the double boots. The Phantom 6000 is slightly warmer, slightly bulkier, and the double boot version. For use skiing, the Spantik can't be beat.

Arc'Teryx chalk bags make you send harder…

Superfeet is now pushing the grey merino insoles for winter "fun." More support (built on the green, rather than the orange that the reds were built on), but I would think the wool will absorb some water/sweat content - bad for long routes.

MSR with a heel lever. Other brands offer much less traction, while the heel lever will reduce calf strain during the approach. REI will have them (all snowshoes) for 25% off starting Friday.

No, for that you need the Steck limited edition of the Scarpa Phantom 6000. The Baruntses are far too heavy.

There are no popular mass market cams that are too light (the Metolius UL cams might be the lightest on the market today and have a good reputation). That said, I use BD C4's, which are heavier than most of the competition.

Baturas are a better technical boot. Warmer, too, though they won't last nearly as long as the Nepals. The Nepal is a classic leather mountaineering boot. An excellent one, perhaps the best I've seen, but it's nothing special. The Batura is a newfangled mix of modern (and not-so-modern) ideas. A better performer--warmer, lighter, better ground feel--but it comes at a price. The aforementioned Trango is another great boot. Super light feel on the feet, and the Trango last is fantastic. But again, the fabric won't last like leather does. For summer objectives, this is my favorite style of boot. The insulated silver trango works well for ice climbing, at the price of some rock performance and a bit of weight.

The Mythos is a super comfy shoe, even when sized tightly. FWIW, mine are about 1.5 sizes smaller than my street shoe. I could probably wear a sock if I wanted to.

My comfy trad shoe is the Mythos. All day comfort and a good performer.

Get a pair of Baruntses or Spantiks, if they fit. You'll want these for Alaska anyway, and it's a bit silly to have two pairs of double boots in your situation. For other cold uses, Baturas are great, Nepals will last longer but won't climb as well.

CiloGear is a modern pack. The strap system is innovative, and you get used to it quickly. Really allows you to fine tune your specific carry. Materials are great. Randy at Cold Cold World is old school. Simple packs, bomber materials and construction. He'll use any fabric you can supply (mine is made of VX-21, which Cilogear uses in their packs as well) and does custom work so you can tweak the feature set and get a perfectly fitting pack. Different design philosophies at work. Both have seen some of the greatest climbs accomplished. Super.

None of the Tecnu products have done anything for me. I get poison oak/ivy/sumac BAD. Four "treatments" are viable, in my experience. 1) Steroids from the doc. 2) Tea tree oil 3) Combination of excruciatingly hot showers and baking soda 4) Sandpaper and alcohol I choose in that order.

Plastic boots, IMO, are uncomfortable and antiquated. I avoid them at all costs. Boots I've been able to get down to two pairs, and cutting down to one requires a lot of compromise. Depending on how warm you need your boots to be, the silver Trangos might be an answer…

CiloGear. Cold Cold World. Hyperlite Mountain Gear. The Jam isn't designed for climbing. BD does a decent job of pack design, but they're way heavy. MH SummitRocket is a cool pack, but the 100D nylon for most of the pack shreds too easily against rock.

The above-listed Westcomb link (i.e., ) says their Power Shield pants do have a membrane: - Made with 4-way stretch Polartec® Power Shield®: A three-layer softshell fabric consisting of a windproof-breathable membrane sandwiched between an abrasion resistant face and industry leading velour knit fleece. Polartec® Power Shield® can resist wear and tear from the outside, while providing continuing warmth on the inside. Regardless whether Power Shield does or does not have a membrane, it seems we all agree that it is a great construction for alpine climbing pants. And at the end of the day, that's what really matters.

Lots of goodness in this post, but this is totally worth highlighting. Getting a good deal on boots is only wise if you are sure the boots work for you. Zappos is ok, with free returns, but you can only wear them around the house. Backcountry and REI offer true 100% satisfaction guarantees.