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Eric T

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Everything posted by Eric T

  1. What type of tent was it please? Do you remember the color? Please contact me asap about this. smithrock@gmail.com thanks, Eric
  2. Jesus man you c2c'd Luna? You're a suckered for pain!!!
  3. I climbed it in 2012 and was like 30lbs over weight at the time, I also had the backpack as I was following, I remember grabbing the flake and it flexed and groaned, it felt like I could have put a foot on the wall and pryed it off. That really sucks but no harm no foul to you guys. Thanks for checking it out John. It wouldn't suprise me if a shinny thing appears....just saying.
  4. Did anyone else see that they dropped the grizzly reintroduction options and are now going to have meetings? I, for one, don't want grizzlies in the North Cascades. What do you guys think?
  5. I agree this latest move by Congress is troublesome and that the land should have more protection. That's why we should protect it as a Wilderness Area.
  6. Thanks for the stoke Wayne, I'm missing that place this fall.
  7. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a climate denialist. It's just some of the predictions thrown around are alarmist. An example that pops to mind is the prediction in 1999 that Himalayan glaciers that were supposed to melt and disappear by 2014 causing a huge drought and humanitarian crisis. https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/guest-blog/ipcc-finally-acknowledges-its-e2809chimalayan-blundere2809d/
  8. The remnants of that tropical storm were supposed to hit western wa last Saturday. Two days out everyone was buying food and fueling, costco ran out of bread. Then the storm hit???? NOT. If they can't call the storm of the decade two days out why does anyone take the seasonal forcast seriously or dare I say AGW...
  9. Sweet send in an ultra classic Alpine setting. I climbed the Matterhorn way back in 94. My buddy and I got back to the hut at dinner time and decided we would rather walk the 12+ miles back to Zermatt than pay 65 swiss franc to sleep with a crowd. A full moon came out and we had an amazing moon lit hike that ended at the bench in front of the church at day break. Everything in Zermatt looks like it was built in the 1500's; so we were a little surprised when a door came swing open at 5 am and had the golden arches stenciled on it.
  10. The pictures you show look like a lot of metal and effort form fossil fuels to set up and then we get electricity. I hear whoever said pump water up hill then run it down when you need it and the hydrogen solution but both are zero sum games. That's the difference between power and energy, energy can be stored. You can fill a barrel with 55 gallons of oil, bury it in the ground for 10'000 years pull it out and use it. Same with coal or natural gas but not with electricity. What seriously cracks me up or depresses me is that when we start talking about running out of fossil fuels the conversation ultimately goes to electricity. Here's the 411, electricity is a luxury compared to oil. Electricity is almost meaningless without oil. Would you like to hear the four truest words ever spoken? WE RUN ON DIESEL. Lets make a short list of what oil does and what electricity does. Oil Virtually every ship plane train truck tractor mines heats our homes light cars and trucks plastics (no current substitute) pesticides (no current substitutes) fertilizer (no current substitutes) around 150 different petro chemicals that literally go into thousands of products and hundreds of manufacturing processes....(no current substitute) Electricity Pumps our water (that's the most important function of electricity) lights computers some busses and cars.... Electricity, in the context of our modern way of life is almost meaningless. Now, if you want to make a solar panel how do we do that? It involves three different high heat processes to make glass, metal and an integrated circuit. It all has to be mined (oil), transported (oil), manufactured (oil), transported again (oil), setup (oil) and finally it makes electricity. EROEI or Energy Returned on Energy Invested is the only bar we should be looking at for "solutions". Solar is just now barely breaking even on EROEI (in the context of solar on roof and converting it to ac and putting it on the grid. Solar is way EROEI negative if you get batteries to store power.) and Nuclear never did. That brings us to electric cars. "In the face of imminent global chaos, from climate change, overpopulation and energy depletion, billions are being poured into development of alternative methods of transportation. Elon Musk, though producing a first class electric car, proposes it to be a vehicle for the ‘post oil’ age, which will inevitably mean a downsized environment. He ignores the basic reality that no road vehicle in the context of modern usage can function without an infrastructure that is itself a construct of hydrocarbon. The notion is that we can all get into electric cars and continue to drive from home to work and back, and our comfortable lifestyle can carry on much as before. In other words, it is the vehicle itself that creates and supports our prosperity. If we use an electric car, we can still somehow move a lump of metal and plastic around as an integral part of our employment and leisure. But the electric car adds to the socio-economic complexity of our over-stressed life support system, it does not simplify it. In addition to the factory itself, an electric car needs sophisticated power hungry production systems, a living environment for its workers, housing, roads, schools and so on, as well as the Bolivian lithium mines and the socio-economic-industrial complexity needed in that country, all solely dependent on a vehicle concept that is ultimately a consumer of the hydrocarbon fuel it is promising to replace. All these systems are (hydrocarbon) energy intensive and expensive to produce. In a downsized society, that complexity will not exist, yet our focus on such dead ends as the electric car shows that humankind does not have the means to rid itself of dependence on the wheel. While the electric car might appear to be a bright shiny symbol of continuing wealth and prosperity, it is in fact a block of embodied energy, as subject to the laws of thermodynamics as any other construction. It demands constant energy input to maintain its viability, and serves no useful purpose in a downsized environment because the means to sustain will not be there. No industrialised nation can maintain its road transport system without the constant input of oil. Fossil fuelled vehicles, whether used on land, air or sea produce our food, sustain our infrastructure and maintain the cohesion of nations. And there are no alternatives." I think Elon Musk is super cool and the fact he and JB are landing rockets is sick. BUUUUTTTTTTT his whole electric car thing is a scam, the gov has given tesela billions to make a glorified golf-cart. There are 850 million light cars and trucks that have ICE. The resources don't exist to make 850 million of any type of vehicle let alone an electric one who's true EROEI is negative. http://www.resilience.org/stories/2016-09-20/just-16-000-catenary-trucks-would-use-all-of-california-s-electricity-with-only-2400-to-8300-miles-of-overhead-wires have a look at this recent artical about making trucks electric. And I know I strayed way off the original topic but I truly believe that anyone talking and electric solutions is deeply in denial. Here is a recent artical on better grid modeling to make better use of what we have. http://www.resilience.org/stories/2016-10-12/better-grid-modeling
  11. what's even crazier to ponder is this machine we are discussing is the largest and most complex machine ever built. it takes a massive input of fossil fuels to maintain it. And solar power is almost useless without it.
  12. You said it! Pro Mountain Sports has the high end gear and there's a good chance you can chew the fat with Jim and get some of the best beta going about the Cascade Range or gear advice from a REAL climber.
  13. That trip report was sick!!! Well done you guys!
  14. Is Steff Abegg a Choss Dog Millionaire?
  15. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1141175/Re_TR_Mount_Blum_North_Ridge_6 Jason, you have some splaning to do...
  16. Kozak, You're the Man! These guys? http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1141274/Re_TR_The_Himmelhorn_South_Fac
  17. It's a true Cascade mystery, albeit a fun one. I hope it's a Lady climber leaving them. Ha Way better than a hulk superball even if the climbing isn't as good... Where else have you seen them? Who do you think it is?
  18. Here's some real SPRAY!!!!!!! BIOTCHESSSS An observation, then a few questions. I keep finding Naked Lady Playing Cards in the summit registers. First I'm solo up on Sinister and find the 7 of clubs. Then I'm solo on Luna and I find the Ace of hearts. What's an Alpinist to do alone in very remote places with naked lady playing cards??? I didn't want them to get lost so I pasted them in for you.... Someone may need to take some hand sanitizer to Luna summit, just saying. Who is leaving the cards? Is there some kind of 52 card summit club that I don't know about? It has to be way cooler than that Bulger club, can you imagine what a total sausage fest that Bulger christmas party is? That's why I'll never be a Bulger, first you have to snow hike and then attend an all male christmas party. They should call themselves the Vienna Climbing Club. NO NUTS, NO GLORY. I'd much rather attend The Cascade Country Club's Annual Climbing Pros and Tennis Hos Gala. Sinsiter Summit Luna Sunmmit It's funny because I know just about everyone who signed both logs. Look at the Luna Page, I've known Coglus for 20 years, I climb with Tom (Touch Down) Danze. Can you imagine how fun it would have been to run into that NOCA patrol of Thompson and McKay? At least they didn't destroy the vitally important and culturally significant playing card. Wow, there's something the Park did right.
  19. Any of you Ladies headed for a National Park should keep your guard up when the Rangers are around. Just one more reason we should disband this broken and archaic agency. The U.S. National Park Service Is Full of Predatory Pervs By Adam K. Raymond For female employees working in the U.S. National Park system, there are threats much greater than bears. Namely, their male co-workers. On Thursday, the House Oversight and Government Reform Committee heard testimony about rampant harassment among employees at some of the nation’s most famous park, including Yellowstone and Yosemite. The conditions at the California park, where 18 employees have complained about the work environment, were described as “toxic, hostile, repressive and harassing.” One of the victims who spoke to the committee was Kelly Martin, a 32-year veteran of the park service who currently serves as Yosemite’s chief of fire and aviation management. She recounted one incident where a park ranger watched her shower and received no punishment when she reported him. In fact, he was promoted despite being “repeatedly caught engaging in voyeuristic behavior.” She also spoke of the time a male supervisor who kept her picture in his car tried to kiss her. And the time another supervisor ran his fingers through her hair during a meeting. Martin said her experience was not unique and that many female employees at Yosemite “are being bullied, belittled, disenfranchised and marginalized from their roles as dedicated professionals.” The allegations at Yosemite are little surprise to those who followed the stories of an abusive chief ranger at Canaveral National Seashore in Florida or the sexual misconduct reported at the Grand Canyon. Lawmakers of both parties were angry about what they heard but had little faith much would be done to stop it. As Maryland representative Elijah Cummings mentioned, a park-service task force was convened in 2000 to find solutions to rampant harassment. None of its recommendations were implemented.
  20. Thanks for the replies, I climbed yesterday and moved 12 miles with no cramps. Layton, I'm with you 110%, electrolytes have nothing to do with ERMC (exercise related muscle cramps), in fact I've now read that our electrolyte levels may rise as we lose liquid during exercise. It's almost funny that there are so many electrolyte replacement products for athletes. I've read that a study done on racing triathletes tested pre and post race for hydration and electrolytes. Turns out there was no correlation between electrolytes, hydration and cramping. Electrolytes are a possible reason for non exercise related cramping. Yes, heat is an issue for me and I do dress down or try to approach in the cool of the day. I do notice that I'm more susceptible to cramps in the heat than cold but they can occur on cold days. Yes, my cramps are always in the same place, my upper legs and always occur on the approach. The cramps do affect different parts of the leg (inner thigh). Yes, eccentric or different movement can trigger cramps for me. I move on the trail for miles no problem but as soon as I post hole or bush whack I can feel them coming on. " The current theory is has nothing to do with electrolytes or pickle juice and more brain/neuro" Yes, that hotshot http://www.teamhotshot.com/ product is with you on that and I believe will work for non exercise related cramping. It was partially effective for me with ERMC but not a total cure by any means. I've also been taking B vitamins because they have something to do with neuro path ways. Still cramping. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article/what-causes-leg-cramps/ This did discourage me and fit me to a T though... "Age also seems to predispose individuals to cramping--the phenomenon may develop later in life for people who exercise for years without prior problems." Scientific American It's back to what Jason is saying about the genetic lottery. I'll take your advise on being in better shape Jason and I'm going to stretch a lot more. I don't have means for a Doctor although i'd like to see a specialist about this. I think your average Doctor, after hearing about a 12 mile approach w/backpack then leaving the trail and climbing thousands of feet with an elite partner 15 years my junior, would simply say......stop doing that.
  21. Hey All, I have some serious issues with cramps and I have tried so many things to stop them. I'm curious if anyone else has cramp issues and what has worked for you? I hydrate, use electrolytes in a few different forms over the years such as electrolyte stamina pills and my latest is a product called base salts that has 80 different elctrolytes and minerals in it and is used by the tri community. I've tried a product called Hot Shot that you can look up and read about but it goes after receptors in the mouth and tummy that stop cramps and I'm back and forth on its effectiveness. I've tried mustard and pickle juice and none of the above has stopped my cramp issue. Please help, it's painful and it wastes my partners time. Once I cramped so badly by Eldorado that I was shaking uncontrollably my face and arms went numb and my poor young partners didn't know what was going to happen next. I've got issues....ha
  22. 3 going to tieton today looking for a fourth. We are departing the 2nd at 7pm and returning the 4th. We can take one or two cars. Text me Eric (425) 329-5167 We have trad gear and ropes and go at it in the moderates....
  23. Start putting antiperspirant on your feet daily. Your feet wont sweat as much. Special Forces guys do it...
  24. Hey All, I'm trying to partner for a N. Pickets traverse. I'm thinking 8 days or so and i'm ready to go when a weather window shapes up. Please text me or email me to chat about options. 425 329 5167 smithrock@gmail.com
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