Eric T

Perhaps the government could look through Mr. Adams images and bill his estate retroactively.

Mike R. and I went to the desert last winter, we spent 6 days at Mt.Lemon. The mountain has crags from 2 to 9 thousand feet in elevation, the wind and cold made it uncomphy, especially at the higher elevations and after a bit we went back to Red Rock. In January, I'd go to Jtree as Red Rocks may be cold as well.

I brought The South Cascade Glacier into the discussion as an example of a Federal Government Agency willfully ignoring Federal law in our back yard. The agency ignoring the law is (in this case) the USGS as they have an ongoing study on the glacier and are have made a mess. I brought Wilderness Watch into the discussion because as I researched the South Cascade Glacier they seem to be the only ones saying anything about the mess. Now I do hear Fairweather on them being a bit radical and some of my Friends think the same thing. As far as I can tell WW wants to follow the Wilderness Act word for word in an almost religious fervor. But for me, I love the Wilderness Act and if I have to choose between, mining or forest corps, gov agency's, blm, forest, National Park or Wilderness then I choose Wilderness every time. Because none of the other choices are protection for the land, they're compromises. And if WW is actually concerned and actively pursuing the SCG issue with letters and thought and the threat of lawsuits then I have to get behind them radical or not. If for no other reason than they actually stood up. So to clarify, Fairweather was making a legitimate point as to why I'm seeking any guidance from WW or there permission for air lift which strictly violates the wilderness act. And my answer to that is because at present they're the only one's saying anything. And if they have a road map to a solution that respects the Wilderness act then so be it. I myself was complaining in a trip report last year about helicopters over the Wilderness Area. But I'm open to suggestions as long as we get the mess cleaned up. And I'm serious when I say if we don't do something, no one will. (besides WW) Only climbers go to the South Cascade Glacier. That's us.

num1mc and fairweather I stand corrected, I didn't think it got all the way east to Wa Pass. Where do you guys stand on the Park expansion? Remember it's not just me stumping on this access and road issue, it's a historically significant and Nationally celebrated group of Conservationists. And Nation Geographic is highlighting their ideas in a feature article because were celebrating 50 years of some really great Federal Laws that are getting ignored in our backyard. And I agree with you guys that Canada has some pretty amazing outdoor practices and management policies. But were not Canada and we have the Wilderness Act so we won't be building huts. Because no concerned climbers spoke up and did something about it. And I don't care if WW or who ever doesn't want air lift then have a fire and consolidate the trash that can't be removed to a hidden spot and cover the stuff with rocks. But for the love of Pete, let's do something. And Fairweather you were right it wasn't you with the Patagonia catalog line. And maybe Tvash is right the research should go on but practices of the USGS need to change on a dime. And sorry to come off as a fat elitist but we all can't do everything in life. We all can't be a NASCAR driver or a Skydiver or President or a Genius and not all of us can transit ourselves to mountain tops. I didn't make those rules. And fat people can make changes in their lives if they want to and go to remote places if they want to. And I encourage every one of those fat people to change. Maybe the Park service should have free jelly doughnut day on Salhale Arm to encourage overweight folks to come up there? How inclusive was that?

Only that the trash on The South Cascade Glacier is in The Glacier Peak Wilderness Area hence it must be dealt with IAW The Wilderness Act. I don't think any agency has blocked any plan to remove trash. I don't think any one has made a plan. The trail is in bad shape, the only way to get anything from supplies to new buildings to removing trash will have to be air lifted to or from The South Cascade Glacier. IDK what WW thinks of air lifted trash removal, I'm guessing that they'd make an exception to have the site cleaned up. You're God Damn right it does!!! Access and Wilderness are not symbiotic! Fairweather, weren't you the guy pissed off over a couple of bolts on Jello tower? So a couple of bolts has you quoting the Patagonia Catalog but an entire road in a wild place you're OK with so you don't have to inconveniently walk? No one is locked out. Only the lazy and pathetic who are trapped inside their own fat prison are locked out. WA Pass isn't included in the expansion plans. If it were I'd be a freshly minted Eco-Terrorist. NCNP is the second least visited National Park in the lower 48 behind a Park on an Island in the Great Lakes. The reason we are the second least visited is the terrine. If you can't drive by and look at it or sit in your motor home and enjoy it your average Park user doesn't want to see it. Do you know how much time the average visitor in Joshua Tree National Park spends inside the park? 3 hours. That's enough time to drive in to Hidden Valley, walk around for 30 minutes, use the bath room and leave. My point being no matter how many drive by few stop and use or explore. So that number (20,000 Visitors) isn't an apples to apples comparison to other parks because The NCNP's 20,000 users are actual hikers or climbers leaving the road to walk. Where other parks are counting every car that just drives in and out. But look closer at J-Tree. The Park Service knows the majority just drive in and look around and leave. So in essence the Park Service promotes J-Tree as one of Americas most special places so they can peddle gate passes to motorists to make a buck. Who cares how sensitive the desert is to impact and overuse? Not the Park Service. Like wise, because of easy access, one CAN'T camp above the tree line at Sahale Camp without a bear canister. A known Park rule is anyone CAN camp above the tree line without a bear canister. Then why not at Sahale Camp above the tree line? Because easy access and overuse in the same spot have established a problem rodent population. You could walk north or south along the crest and camp anyplace you like without an issue, without a bear canister. Now they want Grizzly Bears? Don't they realize that if they stopped encroaching on habitat so hard and removed themselves and their roads the Brown bears might just come back on their own? Maybe a good way to deal with the buildings at The South Cascade Glacier would be to disconnect the lighting arrester and let Mamma Nature have her way....I didn't have a wrench with me.

http://seattletimes.com/html/localnews/2019048690_park02m.html http://www.americanalps.org/ http://noparkexpansion.blogspot.com/ Protecting the land with a Wilderness designation is elegant and real protection. Making the land a national park is peddling it at best and serves the Park Service and there interests.

50th Anniversary of the Wilderness act, what a profoundly landmark piece of Legislation!!!! The Wilderness Act is the only meaningful action by the US Federal Government to protect our wild places. Did you see the article in National Geographic (Sept 2014) titled "50 Years of Wilderness"? Please read this short passage from the article.... "The Wilderness act was signed into law by President Lyndon Johnson on September 3, 1964. But to understand the genesis of the act, you have to go back another three decades, to the 1930's. During the Great Depression tens of thousands of Americans were put to work by the Federal Government in National Parks and Forests. They cleared trails, erected shelters, and laid down mile after mile of pavement. The Going-To-the-Sun-Road in Glacier National Park was opened in 1933, Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park in 1939. The new highways opened up the parks to millions more visitors. But the very success of these efforts troubled many conservationists, who were worried that THE MOST MAJESTIC LANDSCAPES WERE BEING TURNED INTO SO MANY ROADSIDE ATTRACTIONS. A group of them, including Aldo Leopold, got together to defend the National Parks and Forests against overuse. They called themselves the Wilderness Society and their first mission statement denounced the roadbuilding "craze." " Our Wilderness areas in Washington State are under attack! Not by some mining or logging firm but by greedy and unsupervised agencies of the Federal Government. I just did a long solo in the North Cascades and when I arrived on the South Cascade Glacier I was beside myself appalled at the trash and buildings there from a USGS Glacier study that has been ongoing for more than 50 years. What shocked me even more, upon researching said site, is the USGS is now trying to get a permit for 20 more years of research on The South Cascade Glacier. This troubles me for many reasons. First why is there a mess on our Glacier form the last project? So much for think globally and act locally. Maybe the USGS thought because they're doing something noble in researching ice loss that they could simply abandon common sense and litter a place with a leave no trace policy. Hey, if you're going to have a standard, you might as well make it a double. An exceedingly astute PhD once posited to me that most Government Research jobs are a lot like welfare for educated people. That’s how I see this 20 year project on the South Cascade Glacier. It’s not like the writing isn’t on the wall; we all know what’s happening. The climate’s warming and we’re not doing anything to change our ways, hence our glaciers are melting; GOT IT! We don’t need a Government research study on the South Cascade Glacier to tell us that. How about they just come back and clean up their mess and call it good. Here’s a link to a letter from Wilderness Watch. http://www.wildernesswatch.org/pdf/WW_Comments_Darrington_Scoping_6_2013.pdf I can tell you from just walking trail 769 along the Cascade River it's rough and pack trains cannot pass it. It would be very challenging for an average hiker. Meaning that they will have to use helicopters to clean the Glacier which is a violation of the Wilderness act in and of itself. I really believe we need to get behind these folks at Wilderness Watch. Now back to what the National Geographic article was saying, The National Park Service puts themselves ahead of the needs of the land. They peddle some of the most sacred places in the American Wild for entrance fees and parking. Think how special Cascade Pass and Sahale Arm would be if there was no parking lot 3.7 miles away; if you could stand there and actually have a Wilderness experience. All it would take is moving the parking lot back to the Park boundary, or Wilderness Boundary if there were no more Park. The best thing that could ever happen to the North Cascades is if it were simply The North Cascades Wilderness Area without the National Park Service designation painted over it. They actually want a Park expansion to build a big lodge and more roads in The North Cascades. They just don’t get it. The crazy thing about my comments is I’m not an environmentalist or an activist; I just don’t like being taken advantage of and I’m pissed every time I see wild places being exploited so some jerk off can have a job. If we don’t say something or do something no one’s going to. The South Cascade Glacier is right in the Middle of the Ptarmigan Traverse, no one else is going up there but us.

Sorry if you knew the man, Mr. Hillhurst sorry you had that experience. http://blogs.seattletimes.com/today/2014/09/seattle-man-dies-rock-climbing-in-british-columbia/ Seattle man dies rock climbing in British Columbia Posted by John de Leon The Associated Press KELOWNA, B.C. — British Columbia authorities say a Seattle man fell to his death while rock climbing south of Penticton. The British Columbia Coroners Service has identified the man who died Saturday as 31-year-old Stas Eric Gray. Gray was climbing with friends on a rock-climbing site called Skaha Bluffs. Regional coroner Larry Marzinzik says Gray was rappelling down during his third climb of the day when he fell about 25 feet. There’s no indication what caused Gray to fall. The coroners’ service and Royal Canadian Mounted Police are investigating the death.

I bought the Sirocco more than a month ago and LOVE IT!!! I forget I'm wearing it, I highly recommend it. As for fitting your head, there are two sizes. As for distributing the impact force over the entire head, I noticed when I bump my head on rock with the Sirocco it is very muted and mellow where as with a plastic covered or hard hard it's abrupt. I know very unscientific but preferable. IDK what would happen with a large impact between the two. As for it's the birth control helmet....Murphy's Law states that if it's stupid but it works....it's not stupid. Here's me sporting mine on slab daddy... [video:youtube]

Trip: North Cascades - South East Ridge of Mt. Buckner Date: 8/7/2011 Trip Report: Hey All, Sorry it took me so long to get this footage together. Here is the video I took of Shaun Johnson and I, on the SE Ridge of Mt.Buckner. Since only two parties have done it I thought someone may like to have a look. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-ZDaBcXYdi-SkZ3M05rdlRta3M/edit?usp=sharing Here is a link to Shaun and then Blakes trip reports from the SE Ridge of Buckner. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1077273 Johnson and Thompson http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=587915 Skoog and Herrington Here are some random you tubes of what I've been doing... Slab Daddy with Chris Cox [video:youtube] Infinate Bliss with Devi Paulvannan [video:youtube] Three Fingers Lookout Solo via the freshly worked on Meadow Mountain Trail... [video:youtube] [video:youtube] Eric

Hi All, The Cascade Country Club (a climbing club) is having it's annual bash on Saturday up the Icicle. The location is the Forestland parking lot mp 5.7 up the Icicle out of Leavenworth WA. We're planing on climbing during the day then having dinner and some drinks. The theme is "Golf Pro's and Tennis Ho's", so obviously not a Family event. BBQ, pot luck, dress up, shenanigans...Come one come all.

Nice send Wayne!!!!

http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/NaturalHazards/view.php?id=45503 I'm guessing he was on the Scott mountain fire and the "discovery" was in the Mount Jefferson Wilderness Area. There's lots of volcanic activity in that area and a bunch of pot farms....So i'm not sure what he found... Without giving up the location why don't you say what type of feature you found? Sounds like it's guarded by a grueling 7 mile hike.

I thought that looked like a pretty good solo and am wondering why he abandoned his attempt? He didn't look dirty or sweaty so perhaps he was more interested in riding a helicopter than free-soloing at some point. I wonder if he thinks that route is "Unfinished Business" and wants to jump back on it?

Profile for crazedmaniac Member #: 9499 Online Title: journeyman Total Posts: 75 Total Trip Reports: 0 Total Photos: 29 Registered on: 11/12/05 11:10 AM This is the Guy you want to talk to regarding plane wrecks at Darrington....He goes by Zippy Craze.

Pat, a Navel Officer? Tell me another...

That's an awfully informed opinion for a guy who's never spent a day in uniform for his country Pat.

Nothing could be further from the truth. Let me preface my remarks with I'm ex-Army and don't care much for Navy guys, pilots or politicians. I'm not defending McCain for his work in DC or his political life. When McCain was offered early release because his Dad was an Admiral he said "No". In mid-1968, John S. McCain, Jr. was named commander of all U.S. forces in the Vietnam theater, and the North Vietnamese offered McCain early release[44] because they wanted to appear merciful for propaganda purposes,[45] and also to show other POWs that elite prisoners were willing to be treated preferentially.[44] McCain turned down the offer; he would only accept repatriation if every man taken in before him was released as well. Such early release was prohibited by the POW's interpretation of the military Code of Conduct: To prevent the enemy from using prisoners for propaganda, officers were to agree to be released in the order in which they were captured.[34] The notorious camp commander replied "you should have gone McCain because it's going to be really bad for you now". In August 1968, a program of severe torture began on McCain.[46] He was subjected to rope bindings and repeated beatings every two hours, at the same time as he was suffering from dysentery.[34][46] Further injuries led to the beginning of a suicide attempt, stopped by guards.[34] Eventually, McCain made an anti-American propaganda "confession".[34] He has always felt that his statement was dishonorable, but as he later wrote, "I had learned what we all learned over there: Every man has his breaking point. I had reached mine."[47][48] Many American POWs were tortured and maltreated in order to extract "confessions" and propaganda statements;[49] virtually all of them eventually yielded something to their captors.[50] McCain subsequently received two to three beatings weekly because of his continued refusal to sign additional statements.[51] So let's show a little respect to Mr. McCain even if his politics are shit and he looks like the crypt keeper. As for this worthless F&$ktard in the stan he's goddamn lucky to be home and he deserves anything and everything coming his way.

Hey All, Whitehorse can be done almost all year. The brush is thick this year as it's been a wet winter. There is also a weird and unstable snow pack this year that hasn't quite consolidated yet for the summer. The last obstacle is a steep snow field that narrows to a point as it nears the summit rock. You will have to make a step across a scary shrund about three feet wide and hundreds of feet deep that goes down behind said snow field. There was a 40 knot cold wind blowing from it when I did it. Then you will rock climb low fifth class for 40 feet or so to the summit. No sweat right. Do start early as the parking lot is just above 500ft and the summit is 6,841. Add in the gain and loss you have to do on the south side after lone tree pass and you'll change about 13'000 feet of vertical(up and down), it makes for a great leg work out.... Anyone need a partner? Eric

You should have seen these Europeans belaying each other at the creek a few weeks ago. I'm talking the rope running across the ground with a cigarette in one hand and a camera in the other. That S&!T cray.....

Suns out, Guns out!!! Looks like fun Liz....

"Right on Eric! You guys should go to Adventure Punks, Drifting, or Velvet Tongue if you are still in Red Rock!" Thanks Blake! We'll check those out for sure. We did Resolution Arete yesterday c2c and loved it! Rumor has it that you're instructing at the Rendezvous next week. We'll still be here and we'd both like to climb something with you if you have the time.

The two of you must be unstoppable!

Trip: Desert Air, Winter 2014 - Paradise Forks, Mt Lemon, Jtree, Red Rock Date: 3/18/2014 Trip Report: Mike Rynkiewicz and I rolled out of Seattle at 2pm February 11th and drove straight through the night to Las Vegas; we were clipping bolts on Cannibal crag by lunch on the 12th. If you’d like to feel the vibe of our trip open this song in another window, it’s Gramatik. We wanted to get on some big classic climbs in RR and started with Levitation 29, Ixtlan and Cloud Tower, we broke up those days with some craging. Above:Mike and I at IBM Boulder enroute to Levitation 29 Mike leading out on Levitation 29 Mike enjoying a beer after Flashing Levitation 29 We had been invited to be part of the world record Slack line attempt with Andy Lewis and Aerial Artist Jona-Marie Price. This would be an attempt to slack line between two hot air balloons and do some base jumping while Jona Marie hung from the apex of the Balloon performing. We had heard of “Sketchie Andy” and were stoked to meet him and his crew. I expected to see some crazy stuff but “Sketchie Andy” wasn’t Sketchie, in fact he was calculated and very experienced rigger who knew exactly what he was doing. His crew had the best vibe, among them was Jonathan Siegrist the hard man climber that hangs out with Caldwell and Sharma. He was so humble and only wanted to hear about what we were climbing. [video:youtube] [video:youtube] This was no easy line to walk; the balloons were shifting up and down continually and slowly rotating. Other elite slackers with them could stand up but not take a single step. Andy tried it once and fell grabbing the line on the way down. Andy gained his composure made a few quick adjustments and walked the slack line between two hot air balloons like a Fucking Boss!!!! We all cheered and high fived his success, it was a very cool moment to witness. Mike and I then turned our car south to Paradise Forks AZ at 7000ft amsl just a half hour from Flagstaff. We found P-forks frozen and deserted. Camping is free and there is flat ground and fire rings but no water. One has to rappel to get into P-forks as it’s a basalt canyon below flat forest. We didn’t have a guide book and starting mystery leading on the prow. We warmed up on 10’s and 11’s before Mike fired off a 12.b with one fall and some choice words. Its classic basalt trad climbing, most of it hard. The only way to get water was to smash thick ice with big rocks and haul the pieces up the cliff in our bags before melting and boiling it on the fire. After a few days of this we decided Jtree sounded good and packed it up. We met our Friend Nate Milke and his trusty motor home which he calls “Sir Craig a-lot” at Hidden Valley campground and it was on. Mike would get up in the morning at day break and solo 10 to 15 pitches before coming back to get me for out full day of climbing. After hanging with him for a few weeks I nick named him “Wall Street” because this guy’s all business. He won’t stop until he can’t see the holds and that’s not an exaggeration. Above and below is Mike's Dad M-Sizzle topping out his first ever rock climb!!! That's what true happiness looks like. Mike Free soloing Hobbit Roof 10.d at J-tree We took a day to hike into the Wonderland of Rocks and check it out, this is a must see if you’re in J-tree. We made our way to the top of Astro Dome where some mad Man set a high line and the bolts remain if you’d like to try it…. [video:youtube] This is take from Astro Dome in the Wonderland of Rocks Joshua Tree National Park. After more than 10 days of Jtree it was time for a change and we headed to Mt. Lemon on the out skirts Tucson AZ. Mt. Lemon is in the Santa Catalina Mountains and is comprised of Granite and had different crags from 2500ft to 9000 ft all with their own different character. We climbed Steve’s Arête 5.11 at Windy point and loved it. We then climbed on troll wall where the holds were cryptic and mostly side pulls making the climbing challenging. After some days the nights turned colder and we awoke to a very windy morning and decided to come back to Red Rock. Steve's Arete We simul climbed Frigid Air Buttress then found our way through the maze to the base of Bridge Mt before simul climbing The NE Arête to summit at sundown and walked back by way of Rocky Gap Road, it was a long and adventurous day at RR. [video:youtube] [video:youtube] A tree and pond in the maze at Red Rock Bridge Mt. summit Arch on Bridge Mt. Bridge Mt. Bridge Mt. Las Vegas past Bridge Mt. Nevada Hot Spring Red Rock at dawn. Mike R & Eric T Jessica Campbell and Mike R. between boulders at Red Rocks Jessica flashing.... Mike on the Sword Jessica on the Sword Jubilant Song on Windy Peak We’ve been out for 30+ days and have that much left in us. Were waiting for Joe’s and the Creek to warm up a bit before heading out east to continue… HMU if you're in the desert.....smithrock@gmail.com Eric

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=836613 Great work Lowell, this a cool resource and really needed to be done. I'm always trying to figure out who's climbed what. Should the above trip report be included in the list? Thanks, Eric