MrGecko

PM'd

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT I went up to x38 and glued this hold/block back in place and tightened up the hanger. All should be good now. Climb on!

I am going to be running around the 3 Sisters complex this weekend on Saturday and am looking for anyone interested in providing some support. The run will start early Saturday morning and I am looking for some aid (food and possibly a change of socks/shirt) at mile 34 which is at the south end of the complex near the South Sister Volcano and about 2 miles from the trail head. If anyone is interested or might be in the area (it is 30 min south of Bend) please contact me. Another option would be to also run the last 15 miles back to Pole Creek trail head with me. Thx

Amen or whatever religion your with...

I have my WFA, been doing this for 20+ years and have self-rescued to take care of my splinters a couple of times. Shit happens that can be a little more time sensitive and like most living things I have an instinct to survive. I also find it helpful to have should I come across another party in dire need and I can offer assistance. If you don't want a rescue device then don't get one.

What I want from the SPOT. I leave all my travel/climbing route info with someone when I am away. I give them a well considered cut-off time for my check-in so that they would know when to call 911. I don't need anything to check in and say "I'm ok". I would like a simple device that when the sh!t really hits the fan and we can't self rescue that I can signal for assistance. I want it highly reliable and not with a ton of features for tracking my movement, sending texts, 10 different blinky lights and crap that drain the batteries. It needs one button labeled "GET MY ASS OUT OF HERE" and that's it. Regarding cell phones: GSM (AT&T/T-Mobile) cell coverage and signal penetration into the mountains is not as great as CDMA (Verizon) technology. CDMA technology was developed by the military and later bought out by Qualcomm and brought to the consumer market. It works well and has good signal penetration. What one can do is carry a Verizon(CDMA) phone that has a good antenna. You don't need the handset to be activated as all handsets must be able to dial 911 by law whether they are activated or not. Keep the battery charged up and if you have an emergency you can turn it on and dial 911. Test the handset before you head out to make sure it will make emergency calls. You can find them for cheap on eBay or Craigslist. I also carry a spare battery charger pack for my cell phone in case I need extended talk time. It runs on AA batteries, the same my headlamp uses to I will have plenty of spare power should I need it.

I am considering purchasing a SPOT system but have read mixed reviews. Anyone with hands on experience with these things, ease of use, reliability, etc. Would love to hear your comments and suggested alternatives. Thanks

Looking to run on some routes before the season closes down in Wa pass and/or mazama goat wall. Anyone interested in going out for the 6th and 7th?

If you want to know where a good chunk of tax money goes take a look at the US's military budget and spending.

Just did some recon for an around the mtn run this weekend. I checked out from Timberline lodge clockwise to Heather Canyon, counter clockwise to Zigzag Canyon and from Cloud Cap Inn across the Eliot. After the White River crossing (easy) on the east side, a higher switch back has slid away with a land slide. The trail basically seems to end but if you go straight up thru the trees for 30' you will find the trail again. The Eliot is a bit trickier. From the Cooper Spur shelter (east side) one can find a trail heading towards the Eliot Canyon. It will intersect a trail that comes up along the east side of the canyon rim from Cloud Cap. You will find a massive carin at about 6850' on the east rim trail. This marks a good descent trail into the Eliot creek basin. Once inthe basin traverse across angling up towards snow fields in the north west corner of the upper basin. They can be ascended to gain the top of the west side of the canyon. If these are melted out gaining the west canyon rim can be difficult. I aided a thru hiker by just ascending the west canyon slope at 6850' ON THE west side but it was 2 steps up and 1 back on the scree slopes. Not fun. Alternatively I also scoped out the lower crossing at saw a hand line tied off to a big boulder on the west canyon wall down around 5900 or so. Signs say the trail is closed but some folks are taking this lwr crossing. Best of luck!

Yup USDA: http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c5/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gDfxMDT8MwRydLA1cj72BTSw8jAwgAykeaxcN4jhYG_h4eYX5hPgYwefy6w0H24dcPNgEHcDTQ9_PIz03VL8iNMMgycVQEAIzTHkw!/dl3/d3/L2dJQSEvUUt3QS9ZQnZ3LzZfME80MEkxVkFCOTBFMktTNTlIMjAwMDAwMDA!/?recid=52770&actid=37&cid=FSE_003711&navid=110150000000000&ss=110606&ttype=activity&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&pnavid=110000000000000&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&pname=Mt+Hood+National+Forest+-+Rock+Climbing

Listed on the USDA's website for a climbing area near Mt Hood. Anyone have any info on this area? Routes, approach, gear/bolts and quality? I anticipate more choss with a name like Pete's Pile but ya never know

I have been hearing that the traverse from the Red Saddle around the west side is icy at this time and not very protect-able.

Is the Cooper Spur Route in any condition to climb without running into a shite load of rockfall up high?

I am looking for a most recent conditions report for the summit pinnacle and/or the Jefferson Park Glacier route. Anyone want to give up the goods? Thx

Emmons is in great shape. I was up there this weekend and we had great weather. the approach is fine with a little rock/dirt to contend with on the drop from 9200' on the Inter Glacier down to the Emmons. Some crevasses are opening up a bit more on the upper section of the route at 10,500' and 11,500' but a rightward traverse is becoming more popular as the crevasses are widening. This shows the descent to the Emmons from Inter Glacier: Emmons highway:

pm sent

Anyone have any recommendations where one can rent size 15 mountaineering boots for a glacier climb? Marmot - no REI - no Feather Friends - no 2nd Ascent - no Pro Mountain Sports - no Thx

I would like to take another run on this route but tomorrow won't get it for me. If it doesn't work out for you ping me and we should talk. Did you get a copy of my topo for it? there is a sticky on this site.

Anyone want to go to Nason for a tour?

Looking for a partner to check out new exit 38 routes. I have all the gear and lots of experience just lack of willing partners at this time. If it works well I have time for alpine rock and other long wall routes

Weather looks superb this week thru the weekend for an ascent. Any interested and experienced mountaineers wanting to go? 206.240.6991

Based on the weather window that has opened up for Rainier I'm going to save the driving and head there this week for a run on Liberty Ridge. If things change again I will ping you(s) with my locations. PM me your contact if you want me to call. Thx

Anyone up for a run on either of these volcanos this week? If Shasta I'd like to do the West Face Gully up and ski descent. Topher

Anyone with mountain climbing experience interested in going to hood in the next two days? I'm in p town with a need to take advantage of the weather. I have climbed most cascade volcanoes and have many years climbing experience.