MrGecko

Jon thanks so much for chiming in and glad you are on these boards. I have climbed TippTopp from the upper ledge and it was enjoyable to step around the corner and plug cams. Unfortunately the corner is also quite a garden and unless someone gets in there and cleans it up I don't think it will be popular and question if it even has been given the greenery. Too bad, its a fun line. However, the goal here is to make Rolling Thunder a safer route especially for the second. >>Would we cut up a direct line to the top? Given how the guide book is written, it gives the impression of 2 separate routes already. It only suggests that one could continue up TippTopp after climbing Rolling Thunder. However, if one wants to link the entire line it could still be accomplished whether the anchors are added or not. The anchors only address safety for those not wanting to link the lower and upper routes because the traverse after unclipping the last bolt to the suggested stop at the large ledge is dangerous. >>Would we make it safer for sport climbers? It would be safer for any climber. >>Do we need another bolted route? I am suggesting just adding anchors in a safer location. Some climbers will do the whole thing, some won't, that won't change. >>TippTopp is a great route and see's limited use, would it be done more or less? I don't have stats but I would guess it will get the same traffic and this won't have any impact. >>Rolling Thunder is a great route with limited use, same question as above. Again, I will guess it will see the same traffic however, it will be safer and potentially save someone a lot of pain and a 911 rescue team at the crag one day in the future. >>Would we be discouraging people from learning how to lead traditionally? Absolutely not, there are plenty of routes and those who want to trad lead will. my $0.02

Rolling Thunder is a fine outing for the leader but given the position of the last bolt and the belay anchors on the large ledge, if the second messes up after unclipping the last bolt the swing would be bad and into the walls and ledges just below the belay ledge. This route really should have its own top anchors somewhere just above the last bolt. Since Jon Stewart is the FA does anyone know how to get ahold of him and find out if he is cool with a separate top anchor? Thoughts?

Found a climbing shoe on the top of Moscow last Memorial Day weekend. Mad Rock Size 43 Contact me if it's yours or send me the left one since it's about my size.

Does Trinity have a set of top anchors or is it bush whack to a tree up there? Last time I used Kamikaze anchors as I'm highly sensitive to the poison oak stuff. Thx

Bryan, How about 1pm and that gives you the morning to pack and then you can go to Smith from OZ? Topher 206.240.6991

Looking for a partner to hit Ozone Friday afternoon...yep tomorrow! I'm free from 12-1pm for the afternoon. Have rack, rope etc and looking for competent partner. Thx Topher 206.240.6991

[video:youtube]7A86ypN1hqk

Just how strong is that Ice Screw? Oct 29, 2013 Think you're a hot shot ice climber? Think you're a badass when your 40' run out from that last stubby? For all you ice climbers who enjoy living through that ice pitch to sip that next single malt, ever wonder how good that placement is? Read this paper detailing the results of a highly controlled Dynamic Shock Load Evaluation of Ice Screws. http://www.dryicetools.com/storage/Dynamic%20Shock%20Load%20Evaluation%20of%20Ice%20Screws_Final.pdf

What time you thinking?

Catch of the Day - thin conditions, WA side of the Columbia 70m rope gets one all the way to the top and a tree anchor, thin ice, here today, gone tomorrow.

Does anyone know if there are anchors in the rock at the upper wall?

Bridal Veil east and west have nothing worth noting, still too warm in there. Some stuff under the Angel's Crest area looked like it was coming in but I didn't have any binocs to see closer. Mist Falls was thin and mushy but we did a run on it. Didn't know of any top anchors so down climb and back clean was the name of the game. Did see that the WA side around Cape Horn was showing signs of goodness but got no closer than Oregon shores so YMMV. Play safe!

Any Infinite Bliss times to post?

I don't know who the climber is but we were in Black Velvet Canyon on Sat running up some routes on Whiskey Peak when a climber took a fall on the 3rd pitch? of Frogland. The information shared was a compound fracture of his right arm and I'm sure some other injuries. He was lowered in a litter from the upper pitches and then heli slung out on a short haul. Kudos to the S&R team and some amazing flying skills to get the chopper so tight near the wall for the haul. [video:youtube]

If the other two lines are as described then I agree, why climb them when the hand crack seems to be the better line. That "slippery" section had some thin fingers but the crack does take good nuts. I ran into some local guy named Kenny, we are going to get out sometime soon and explore some other routes. Anyone know him? Is he safe?

Can anyone comment on the 4" off width? It wasn't very clear which option that was, both of the alternative lines looked loose and grungy.

Trip: Beacon Rock - Right Gull Vulcan's Variation Date: 10/25/2013 Trip Report: Thanks to Stevetimetrvlr for his suggested line up Right Gull as that is exactly what we did and it was a superb climb. P1 - Started up Little Wing which definitely has a few thinner finger jams for its grade but I'm glad to say I didn't come unstuck from the wall. Linked this with the first proper section of Right Gull and followed the steps up left to the top of the pedestal. At this point I took the short Vulcan's Variation to the next ledge for one long pitch and a gear belay. P2 - Tim fired up the solid and clean hand jam crack to the left of belay for a short pitch. The 3" and 4" cams are most useful here. P3 - A widish crack with a sporty roof section and solid gear pops out at dead? tree on a ledge. We scooted behind the tree and up another series of left trending steps to a final belay for this route. Should have taken Muriel's Memoir 5.9 from the dead? tree ledge straight up, looked much better. P4 - basically move the belay across the ledges and merge with the SE Corner route P5 - follow the standard route up the long right trending ramp P6 - chug along the ridge line to wrap up a great day Columbia River Gorge views from the route P2 the short hand crack P6 Looking down the ridge Little Wing to Right Gull Vulcan's Variation to SE Corner Gear Notes: Full set of nuts & Dbl cams to 2", 1 each 3" and 4" cam

Thanks - looks like I found a victim for the morn

Anyone interested in getting out on Beacon tomorrow? I have rack, rope and motivation but slim on working folk who want to trade a day at the desk for a day at the rock. I'm thinking of Young Warriors or Right Gull both in the .8-.9 range and this is gear placing with maybe the odd piton here and there. 206.659.6961 Text or Voice

Referring to an earlier post regarding the Wrong Gull pillar that has departed the wall. Is Right Gull still climbable to reach the anchors that were above the Wrong Gull pillar? The guide description states that one "gingerly" moves left from the top of the Right Gull pedestal to the bolt anchor. Not having done the route did it require getting on top of the now defunct pillar? Thanks

Bit of a long shot but I'm free tomorrow if anyone is interested in hitting the 'zone. Leave message here before 10am

Trip: Beacon Rock - SE Corner Jill's Thrill Variation Date: 10/5/2013 Trip Report: What great weather for an early October weekend after Portland experienced a sudden summer to winter transition just the week prior which turned Hood, Helens and Adams from brown to white. 75F, sunny and a perfect day to get my first run on the south side of Beacon, which was long overdue. Luck would have it that I bump into Jim O dashing up the SE Corner with a young'en in tow. Wonderful to see the generations passing on the art and who better than Jim to show this kid Beacon. My friend Jessica had climbed the route before and was keen to get some more time on the sharp end so we decided to swap leads. Jess took the initial pitch and shortly after brought me up to the comfy Snag Ledge. Up ahead at the belay of pitch 3 of the standard route was a party of four and it looked like they were going to be taking a more leisurely pace. Unfortunately I didn't bring the guidebook so the best I could do was look about and see if there might be an alternate route to do. I spotted a nice looking crack behind the belay with a pin about 1/3 the way up so I suggested we give it a go. The next pitch was sweet with good gear after the first pin and lots of hand holds showing up just when needed. There is another decent pin near the exit and pulling over the top of the crack a set of 2 rap hangers with slings is found. The 3rd pitch of our adventure started off with an easy ramp to a ledge where a tricky crack splitting a slab is found. The crack takes good small to medium nuts but the sequence wants fingers in the gear placements so I found this to be the crux (10a-ish) and took a fall on a solid nut. After working out the moves I lowered back to the ledge and climbed it clean to another good ledge and set of anchors. The 4th pitch consisted of a tight squeeze slot with fingers/hands and good gear. A bit more sustained than the prior pitch it eventually eases up higher and exits straight up to another set of bolt anchors. From here we headed left along the Grassy Ledges to wind our way up to a chimney that exited onto a large bivy ledge. We crossed the ledge and down climbed the right side to meet up with the standard route along the ramp and in its third last pitch. This is where I ran into Jim and he informed me that the route we climbed was called Jill's Thrill and was a classic line. I have to agree it was definitely a superb line. SE Corner with Jill's Thrill Variation (1st pitch of the SE Corner route not shown) Jessica following up the first pitch of Jill's Thrill Almost to the crux on Jill's Thrill second pitch View up river Pitch 6 Pano with Columbia River and the Oregon side of the Gorge Gear Notes: small and medium nuts 0.5-2" set of cams

Possible if I can swing the work thing, I will PM if I can make it.

I'm looking for a Smith partner. Have rack, etc and plenty of trad experience