MrGecko

Looks like this would have been lost in 2014 season based on the condition of the shoe. Superfeet insole inside, very clean. Size 8.5

Go check out Dad's Nuts for some free cams, Omega and DMM are wedgied and ready for the taking. Bring a crowbar and hammer and perhaps some lube.

--- Ozone Updates --- A number of climbers have been doing some cleaning, bolting and route development at Ozone so I thought I'd share a summary of what I know. Feel free to contribute anything recent that you might know or have participated in. I'll cross post on CC in the Gorge section. Referencing the Portland Rock Climbs guide numbering system as # and route names capitalized. A) GRAB N' GO, 5.10c/d, 6 QDs - Micah's new addition to the wall follows a line just to the right of HOUSE OF PAIN, #10 B) HELM'S DEEP, #12 was retro bolted and no longer requires gear C) WINE & CHEESE, #27 was scrubbed but with the PG rating and run outs is going to get some retro bolting in the near future. D) GANESH, #28 was scrubbed and de-bushed and takes gear well. If one uses a long runner on the DIRTY JUGS, #29 bolt before breaking left the route protects fine. The R rating is due to a large block up high that needs more inspection but not because of run outs. GAN update E) SWEEPING BEAUTY, #30 had a bolt added to the lower easier half of the climb. The alternative is to start on DIRTY JUGS, #29 and finish on SWEEPING BEAUTY which is called DIRTY BEAUTY, this eliminates the need for gear.SB update F) ROLLING THUNDER, #44 was retro bolted up at the exit to protect the second from a bad fall after unclipping what was previously the last bolt. RT update G) STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN, #47 the first bolt was chopped in the spring by the gate keeper of all things 5.6 STH update H) RIPPER, #59 got a nice extension added called FULL JACK, 5.9/10a That was the work of Benjamin Grandy and myself back in June, it can be protected with a 1 and/or 2 MasterCam. R update I) GETTING YOUR KICKS, #70 lost a big part of a key hold on the lower overhung section around the first bolt. There is talk of removing what looks like is now a dead tree and potential back breaker.

So does this mean SB is all sport now with no gear required? I used to turn this route into QDs only by starting on Dirty Jugs and transitioning into it, ie. Dirty Beauty Thx

Went back out with LostCamK and after a lap on Right Gull we rapped down Jill's and traversed over to SE Corner. Did the good pitch and instead of going to the tree ledge we traversed to the top of the second pitch of YW and did the third, fourth and fifth pitches. Ivan was right, I only missed a bit on the 4th pitch but did get the intro to the 'proper' 5th pitch which traverses up right from the belay and clips a pin and a bolt and then eventually meets the ridge. Thanks All!

Good Hezues! Better head out with you Steve and do it again...grrrr

Thanks Mr Ivan - I thought maybe those intermediate anchors were for the Elusive Element or Cloud Nine routes and was thinking I might have missed the YW upper line.

For all you well traveled trad masters of the Beacon. Went up YW yesterday and have a question with regards to the 4th pitch that heads up the rounded arete. From the large ledge I stepped left and began moving up to where I found a 1/4" bolt (time to replace this). I continued on past another 3/8" rusty bolt (needs to be replaced as well) and then got some gear in a flake above that. I pulled over a small lip and found two rusted home made anchors and then moved right across a slab and further up some fun slab with a pin in it and eventually ended up at the SE Corner belay stance. The route description didn't mention any bolts, pins or an intermediate belay. Was I on route or ???

Infinite Bliss

Apparently there was a tragedy over the weekend on Infinite Bliss. Condolences go out to all friends and family of the climbers involved. I am always moved when I hear of friends and acquaintances who lose their life while pursuing something that they love and brings them joy. Precious are our lives, live passionately my fellow wall mates.

Crimper email me the pics I'll post them for you. t @ miraiusa . com

Looking for a partner for Sawtooths. Elephants Perch main objective, should lead trad and have alpine experience. Text me 206.659.6961

THANKS PARTNER FOUND August quickly approaching and I am itching to get out to the Wind River Range for some multi-pitch granite and classics. Plenty of moderate lines for the mountain goat in you! 10-14 days available including drive days from Portland. Who's in? I've got a ton of alpine experience, plenty of gear and time. My current partner bailed out due to injury.

Nathan, PM sent your way

BEWARE OF OLD MENS PITONS Anyone driving pitons at Beacon needs to pass some age requirements, Joe how old were you when those pitons went in? "Myth 3:- You drive a piton in until the pitch of the ringing stops rising. All the pitons I tested had different pitches of ringing, angles making a lovely sound even when not in a crack. Stopping driving early when the pitch appeared tobe at it´s highest gave easy to remove pitons, in fact what we considered `good´ turned out to be unable to even hold the initial weight of the tester. The maximum pull-out resistance was achieved when they were "beaten to death", either because we just couldn´t hit them any harder or they started to collapse. Of course ones ability to hear when the ringing stops rising could be age related anyway, beware of old mens pitons!"

Hey Ganesh 5.9R was cleaned up and devegetated at Ozone and is actually a fun route with good protection. The R rating comes because of a block 2/3 way up that is secure enough but should probably be cleared. Go get on it, shares Wine & Cheese's top anchors.

Some dude fessed up to it ... believes the section can be protected with a cam. Apparently he's an expert on 5.6 sport routes

Yesterday a bolt was added to the top of Rolling Thunder to deal with the nasty fall potential for the 2nd. This also now provides for a nice continuation into Burrito Killa for a long single pitch aka Rolling Killa. We also cleaned out Ganesh and started scrubbing Wine&Cheese for some refitting.

Helm's Deep has also been retrofitted with a bolt where the gear was previously recommended. Its no longer a mixed route now. JS took care of that as well.

Kevbone exactly the consensus we reached as well. No additional anchor, just a single bolt. That bolt will facilitate a safer follow on RT, the ability to extend RT or Jacobs Ladder on to Burrito Killer for a full sport line or extending into TippTopp nicely. If one stops at the ledge then the bolt will help with the step around for timid leaders. The important thing is that as climbers we govern ourselves to make routes as safe as possible for each other in these high traffic areas and avoid the rescue teams showing up unnecessarily.

Here is a classic example of why there are break-ins at Ozone. These pics show what was in plain sight in someones Subaru. I prefer to park beside these folks 'cause then my empty car looks a hell of a lot less interesting. A nicely packed grab bag Better yet free money

TippTopp had some gardening done yesterday and looks more inviting. After we climbed Rolling Thunder again and discussed the options, it seems like adding one more bolt to the top of RT to protect the 2nd would be the preferred option. a. it achieves the primary goal for a safer exit from RT to the ledge b. allows Rolling Thunder and TippTopp to be combined without breaking the natural flow of the link up c. adds an extra level of protection to the step around from the large ledge to the start of TippTopp It was felt that another set of anchors would be unnecessary.

It had a 2nd and 3rd ascent and the consensus so far is 5.10- We also made a team effort to clean out the garden on TippTopp so that route is looking more inviting.

I have a pair for sale here and will be coming up to Seattle this weekend if interested and you can try them out for cheap http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1125670/Gear_Closet_Clean_Out#Post1125670

Climbed Piton Variation (shown as 61 in the topo below) today above Ripper up to the big ledge. The old mangled piton in that route looks ok but doesn't do much to protect the section, if you miss the throw you'll meet the upper deck. Exploring alternatives, we climbed the crack system to the left of the Piton Variation. It was a bit choked up with shrubery so did a wee bit of cleaning. With a similar character to its neighbor, it can be protected with a 1 and/or 2 MasterCam and goes about 10- Calling it "Full Jack" Anyone know if this has been done before? Route highlighted - topo from Portland Rock Guide Looking up from the top anchors above Ripper at left hand crack system