rocketparrotlet

You could also let your daughter join the Mountaineers; for the most part, the group is filled with nice people. She could take the Alpine Scrambling course. The trips are very safe, you will not need to worry about safety. 14 is the minimum age for the course, I took it last year, with great results. -Mark

Thank you! I'd rather not do it again...I'd like to go somewhere else. Sorry. Where did you go in the North Cascades?

Josh, I just climbed this yesterday. I thought about you on it a little bit. You would be able to climb it. It's not very technical, but it's just hard. I thought so anyway. Super fun though! You will be able to climb in two days like Tazz said, don't try it in one, it's too long and being extremely tired as you would be if you did it in a day would put your team members at risk. The route is very good though, the conditions are nice! We had no moat or bergschrund problems to deal with, and the river is only knee-high. I would call it a climb- easy glacier (PD-), and a little class 4 rock near the top. I went with one other person, we roped up on the glacier, but climbed the rock unroped. If you are uncomfortable climbing/downclimbing class 4 rock, you might want to rope up. Bring a light rope though, we used an 8mm 30m. Even moving at a steady, fairly fast pace, it still took us twelve and a half hours car-to-car. -Mark

OK great, let's plan on it then! I'm 16, with glacier and rock knowledge. Should I bring a few nuts, or do you have that under control? -Mark

I might be interested, I have to check out the route information- I have heard it has a gnarly river crossing which might be dangerous after Saturday's storm. I think I'll be in, though. -Mark

Why is it that you guys get so up in arms to defend some old guys climbing with obviously unsafe techniques, but then shy away like the plague from anyone below 18 for "safety" reasons? -Mark

I need a partner for Sunday, both my plans for this weekend fell through. I'd love to do something alpine, but a day at the crags would be fine too. I'm open to suggestions. I am 16, I have a rack, but no car. My belaying and following skills are solid, and I can lead easier (5.7 and below) stuff. -Mark

Is this still up, or is it over? I need a partner for Sunday. -Mark

Cool! We can plan on Sunday if that's cool. -Mark

That would be great! Let's plan on the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell Saturday or Sunday, probably Saturday but I'm not sure yet. -Mark

Is this weekdays or weekends? If it's weekends, I'd be totally open for Liberty Bell, or another climb. Got school on weekdays, though. -Mark

Some stuff has come up, I will not be able to climb this weekend. I'm sorry. -Mark

I'm busy this weekend, never mind.

If something doesn't work out, I'd be up for this. I can follow up to 5.9, lead to 5.6. Index is awesome for cragging, some good alpine routes are at Washington Pass on Liberty Bell and South Early Winter Spire, but it's pretty far north. There's great routes everywhere here. -Mark

EDIT: Never mind. Misread post. -Mark

Thanks! I love biking! And Mountains! So why not have both! Not looking good for Sahale, I'd stay off that for now. Just practice your rappells and knots and we can go climb The Tooth instead. -Mark

This site might be helpful to you: http://www.nichols.edu/departments/Glacier/ The glaciologist in charge of this, Mauri Pelto, is pretty helpful, you should send him an email. He probably has some data on this, seeing as it's his entire career. -Mark

I've heard mountain bikes. Just had a trip a week ago that would have been N. Twin, but we changed to Lundin because we didn't feel like dealing with bikes, too. -Mark

Neither of those looks all that stable. I would recommend: 1. Reslinging the "boulder", doubled up 2. Undoing the master point and tying it closer to the clipping point 3. Tie a few overhand knots along the master point 4. Or just use 2 pieces of double-length webbing instead, if possible The first one would work if you used a normal figure 8 as opposed to a figure 8 on a bight. -Mark

I'd go for it! I'd love to get out anywhere! School starts for me on September 2nd, but anytime from now to August 31st is open, and weekends after that as well. Washington Pass is good, Leavenworth is good, Index is good, I like it all! I can follow 5.9 and lead 5.6. 425-423-9385 -Mark

I am using a BlueWater daisy chain personal anchor, rated for 24kN. I don't think it was a high shock load because I only weigh 50kg (0.5kN), and it wasn't a straight fall- it was more like I slipped, then swung a little before I actually hit the bottom of the PA; it wasn't a straight drop. It didn't hurt at all. I fell because I was tying a clove hitch to set up a belay, and I slipped. -Mark

Sorry that it didn't work out because, I don't have a vehicle either, if anything changes and you need a partner, just let me know! 425-423-9385 -Mark

I might be game for it, if you can keep it down to lower ratings...I've only climbed at Great Northern Slab, besides that dihedral boulder at the bottom, the hardest I've done is Roger's Corner (5.9) I would love to get out and climb some 5.9's though! I'm not good enough to lead them, but I could follow them, and maybe lead easier stuff. -Mark

Sure, I'd love to go! EDIT: I can't go tomorrow (Thursday). I'm open for Friday and Saturday though, SEWS or Index both sound great! -Mark

Bump Changed some stuff I'm still partnerless. -Mark