keenwesh

climbing tomorrow?

are there sport routes on Martha's boulder? if so what grade and how many? looks like a cool spot, kinda like what I've heard about the bivi boulders in the cirque of the unclimbables.

here's your chance summitchaser!!!!!!!!!!

went and did online 2 days ago and TR'd american pie, next time I'll lead it. after going up the crux of online AP feels casual. agree about the crux being 6 feet below the 3rd bolt. I fell off it. managed to grab the rope as I fell past and only fall a short distance. stellar route! one that I will have to do again!

I should probably clarify... if the temps are below ~15 degrees keep the batt in your pocket. otherwise whatever. I went up chair this winter in subzero temps and my fully charged battery was dead before I even turned the camera on half way up the face. the 2nd time I kept the batt in my jacket and had no problems, other then fiddling in and out a battery kinda sucks when you want to take pictures.

sounds like a great trip. I'd love to get in there some time.

of only I wasn't going to Minnesota...

it's cirque of the tower BTW the unclimbables are a ways north... goodluck on finding a partner!

keep the battery in your breast pocket or it will die and only bring one light lens. you won't have enough time to fuck around changing lenses on a rope team. if you have a point and shoot you might just want to take that instead, lighter and they still take really good pictures, also you can keep the whole camera in your pocket, so longer batt life.

mark- your right! also, my dad might be coming along. he's starting to get soft and I want to delay him from becoming a weekend kayaker for as long as possible. also. it could be either sat. or sunday... still lets set up a weekend to go up and do some work. carpooling would be sweet, anyone in the seattle area able to pick me up at the park and ride?

the climb in question. looks like you can really sew it up above that lower part... (like that guy did) http://www.mountainproject.com/v/international/north_america/canada/106241546

if it's protecting a 5.11 move on a 5.12+ climb I think it's okay to have semi shit gear. if you really want to climb it why not just TR it? is it hard to reach from neighboring route anchors?

name the weekend, even this one would probably work. the trail to 3 oclock was in fine shape, maybe cut a couple of maples growing at the base of the slabs. would we be using a bosch or a handdrill? either one works I guess.

9.7 get that shit.

mattp: I'd love to help replacing bolts too. hit me up with a PM if your going to go do that and I might be able to make my way up. so those are 5/16 bolts! makes me feel a little better. I thought the hangers were all pretty good, stainless steel, no corrosion, although the vast majority were spinning freely. rapping off to the climbers right of Luke some bible verse there were a handful of truly awful bolts that instead of being replaced had been glued so the hangers wouldn't spin. plenty of routes to upgrade there, and even a couple unbolted slabs far over to the left side of the rock. there was a steep 20 foot wall looked 5.11 going up the top right side of the great arch. I wanted to clean it and give it a try but we ran out of time.

did you climb exfo with mark? these bolts were all on 3 o'clock rock.

climbed up there the last few days and couldn't help but notice there is a plethora of old rawl drives. how strong are these things? is it bad that I kept climbing routes with these shitty bolts? also, on the 3rd pitch of big tree 2000 the bolt protecting the crux moves of the third pitch has been chopped, made my guidebookless climb that much more exciting! I managed to get a small stopper in a flake ~15 feet below and too the right of the missing bolt, then just ran it out. any reason this was chopped? any active retrobolters up in that neck of the woods?

that looks like madrock to me. new owners or something?

yeah, I just google earthed the approach, looks like a little over 3 miles from 8 mile. gotta get a good weather window, don't want to fry on the slabs in the sun...

an hour from where you parked to the base of dreamer? that's not bad at all!

how long does the hike in take with the extra road hike? also, are there any turnouts up there? I just kinda bashed into some trees to turn around in my friends dads infinity. ha!

is the giant log like 100 yards past the 3 o'clock rock turnout? I drove past it thinking it was a wrong trailhead cause I have the shitty smoot guide that says the trailhead is the "squire pass trail" it's eight mile. anyway, how bad is it to the green giant? would a 2wd volvo get it's shit rocked? should I get my friend to take his subie forester?

CHROME

tell him to watch for the rope getting behind his heels!

so your saying that the friction improves in the rain?????