RafalA

The new Arcteryx Alpha FL 30 & 45 were tested extensively by getting hauled up and down the Bugs. They held up pretty well, I'm told, though I haven't tried myself yet.

Strap them together, wrap the front points in whichever pair of gloves I'm not wearing, shove into pack.

The short answer: yes. The long answer: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/01/comparison-belay-devices/ I use the Camp Ovo (pretty much same thing as the Kong GiGi) as my primary device for bringing up seconds, complimenting either an ATC-Guide or a Reverso 4, depending on rope thickness. Also handy as a backup belay device in case you or your partner drop one. For the weight and cost, it's a no-brainer to bring one. Many guides I know use one to save their elbows when bringing up clients.

OR Lodestar & Contact have pretty low-profile cuffs. Depends how much warmth you're after - define 'colder temps!'

This.

Ushba Basic on one strand, Camp Lift on the other, backpack tied to the end of the rope to weigh it down.

I clip non-climbing stuff to it such as v-thread cord, knife, hooker, etc. Also store water bottle, gloves, belay jacket, etc. on it. The cord loop is surprisingly strong: I've hung myself from it (150lbs or so) and it held without issue.

Get either the mini-hammer or the CT hammer - they don't stick out from the tol as far, and don't change the balance as much (though both still put it a bit towards the back). Or carry a third tool with a hammer.

Use them all the time: they make for a better swing into ice, and slot into cracks nicely on rock. The only time I would not use them is hard sport mixed (say, M10/M11 and up) to make the tool lighter. I find at that point the pick weights don't come in handy anyway...

Here's my take: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/07/field-tested-scarpa-rebel-gtx-carbon/ They've held up very well, considering all the sharp scree they've been subjected to. The sole is still doing well after 1.5 years, and the upper looks almost unscathed. Highly recommended. Nobody I know of who has a pair can figure out why Scarpa NA is taking these out in favour of the Rebel Pro (which is a much, much warmer boot).

Stopped using my Gamma MX a couple of years ago as I just found it too warm. (Great jacket otherwise!) Patagonia Knifeblade is great - same fabric as Gamma MX (Polartec Power Shield Pro) but without the fleece backing. Amazing fit for climbing (though I don't have the new jacket version, yet) and good length. Another good option is Arcteryx Gamma SL Hybrid - lighter fabric, not as windproof, highly breathable, stretchy and fairly durable. Long enough it stays tucked in, too. For colder or windier days when using the Gamma SL, I will also bring a Gore-Tex Active shell - light (300g) but 100% wind and water proof. For mid-layers I use everything from Arcteryx Phase Zips (mostly SL and AR weights) as more light-weight pieces to Patagonia R1 and Piton Hybrid for very cold days. I'd also suggest you look at the new Polartec Alpha pieces (Westcomb, Montane, Mammut, a few others are using it) - I haven't used any yet, but the tech promises a lot, and the jackets I've seen are cut well for climbing and promise to be a one-item solution (insulation with protection and climbing comfort).

Sterling Nano 9.2 is single and half certified. For ice, I've been using Sterling Photon 7.8 in 70 and they're phenomenal - they stay dry, don't fuzz, don't tangle much - for skinny ropes anyway. Had the Petzl Dragonfly 8.2, absolute crap. They had fuzzed and started soaking up water like a sponge after three routes. They also tangled like nothing I've ever seen before or since. Returned them. Curious to try the new Petzls (now made by Edelrid... coming spring '14) Mammut is always a good option, too - for ice I'd go Phoenix 8.0. Have used the Phoenix 8.0 and Genesis 8.5 extensively and would highly recommend either. Had Edelweiss 8.2s and they were quite good as well, though didn't stay as dry as the Sterling or Mammut ropes. There are some interesting options out there these days... say, a Mammut Serenity 8.7 with a Phoenix 8.0 gives you the option to climb on a single with a tag, or use them together as halfs or twins...

Been wearing / using my Sirocco all summer (well, since like June?). Absolutely no complaints other than the color. If you'd like to know more, I've put up a review on my site but it essentially boils down to the above statement: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/07/field-tested-petzl-sirocco/

There are as lot of options out there for a gaitered single (or double) boot. Lowa, Zamberlan, Scarpa, Sportiva, Mammut, Millet, Salewa all make at least one model. I have the new Phantom Guides and love them for everything from M9 to WI6. They're relatively light, warm and have proven to be quite durable despite a few extended Rockies talus scrambles. I'll happily use mine to -20 or so in the winter. I also think they're great for walking in and have done several approaches. The Phantom 6000 (again, new version) climbs almost as well as the Guide. It is considerably warmer (have been in mine at -30 or so and was toasty warm even on belay). Due to it being a double boot, it cannot be laced as tight as the Guide, which contributes to minor movement of my feet in the boots when really pushing off. That said I've still had them on M8's and Rockies WI6 without issue. As with many other pieces, buy the one that fits your feet best...

I've been using one since November and have had no issues. No freezing, no dirt attraction, etc. I do prefer this design to other autolocking designs, especially the annoying lift-twist-pull triple actions.

That sucks, thanks for the update. They should last longer, imo. If the sole and outer are still in good shape, there is no way any of the inner components should be giving out.

A few more thoughts: - DMM Wallnuts are nicer than the BD nuts, though a bit more expensive - I'd get C4's in 0.5 to 3 - I rarely use my .3 and the 4 isn't a common placement either - I'd go with either the new BD X4 or the Fixe Aliens over MasterCams - but I prefer cams with more flexibility - Camp Photon biners are awesome for draws - big but light - DMM Phantom biners come in cam-matching colors for your racking pleasure - Mammut slings have a sewn-over label over the sewn juncture, making them less snag-prone than any others I've seen (you'll need to see this to understand) - don't underestimate the importance of hexes, especially for alpine / winter mixed - I wouldn't double-up on anything until I knew what I really used a lot (C4's .75 to 2 in my case, and green and blue aliens) - depending where you are, some pins can be very useful - and if you get pins, don't get a hammer that's too light, or too heavy

Lots around here climb on Cobras! But Nomics do make life easier

Mike Lai, it sounds like you are not actually an ice climber. It is rather hard to re-design an item, or improve upon an existing design of, that you yourself don't have direct experience with, and a proper understanding of how it is used. The current crampon attachment methods - all strap, strap + heel bail, all bail - work just fine. The problem is standardization and continuity of design across manufacturers. You may wish to look into the GSb (Grivel Scarpa bail) system of a few years ago for one such idea that didn't take off. As far as using magnets to 'locate' the crampon on the boot sole, this is a good idea in theory, however your magnets would have to be incredibly strong to resist both the backward forces from kicking in the front points as well as the lateral forces exerted on side-points when torquing into cracks, or even side-stepping. You may have noticed that most crampon heel pieces have two small up-turned tabs to prevent the heel piece from sliding off the boot sole. Something similar for the front would be cool, but I am not sure how you'd implement it to work with all boot sizes and sole widths, shapes, etc. If you want to improve crampons, I'd say look into improving the front bail / boot slot interface - either by having multiple bails to fit different sized and shaped soles, or a single, adaptable, universal bail. I am open to a new attachment system, but there are a LOT of climbers, not to mention boot and crampon manufacturers you'll need to convince that it's better. If you want to design a whole new crampon, I'd like a crampon with modular front-points a la the Petzl Lynx; a front-point-section configuration similar to the Grivel Rambo 4 / BD Stinger (prominent secondary front points); the secondary points swept back, again like the Rambo / Stinger / Petzl Dart\win; tertiary points similar to the Stinger (swept back); interchangeable rear heel pieces (aluminum and steel); and, of course, a bail system similar to the Petzl Lynx that would be compatible both with bail-less 3-season alpine boots as well as fully-welted ice boots. Oh, and light weight as well. And an effective anti-bot (Grivel has the best ones). And if you could figure out a good way to switch crampons from dual to mono configuration on the fly, without tools, that'd be cool too.

Damn, those picks looks sharp Dane. Make anything that improved the ice performance?

The best way to get ice performance from a fusion is to sell it and buy nomics Got Nomics, but am really liking the Fusions on rock... and not about to carry both for mixed Headwall missions

Good to know, John! Been wanting to make the Fusions a bit better on ice :-)

Just a tad. High clearance 4x4's have been routinely getting stuck by the blue bridge :-)

A bit of input from a local... It has been unseasonably warm and dry for the past three weeks or so. Not much snow, no rain, etc. A lot of sun, though. We had +6 in Canmore yesterday - people were walking around in shorts. The ice is getting very sun affected, white, delaminating. It is wet everywhere. As posted above, a good chunk of Cascade fell off on Sunday, and everything else is looking similarly iffy. Current recommendations for this weekend, around WI4, (in no particular order)would be: Professors, Louise, Moonlight/Snowline, Wilson Major, Murchison, Guinness climbs (Guinness Gully, Guinness Stout, High Test). If you can get into the Ghost (which is a bit adventurous in these warm temps...) add: Kemosabe, Malignant Mushroom, Wicked Wanda, Sorcerer. Personally, Wilson Major is one of the coolest spots I've been to this year, and if avy conditions remain acceptable, I highly recommend checking it out: http://www.thealpinestart.com/2013/02/trip-report-mt-wilson-climbs/

The Lynx are designed asymmetrically to follow the curve of the boot sole. Try them as they are now - you might need to adjust your kick a bit, but once you get used to it, they are more solid and easier to kick with than crampons where the points go straight.