TMO

Thanks for the encouragement Bug, you've been very helpful I will bring the pocket rocket and billy pot though...

Go git 'em. They are slightly lighter and very slightly weaker than a Neutrino... but are very cheap! I think I may have to scoob some up myself.

Thank you Eric8! Great point on #2, we have NOT done much simul climbing but plan on puttin' some miles in between now and then.

I realize that I will probably be flambee`d... but here goes anyways... (before you suggest it; I have been through all the TR's already and have more, specific questions) My partner and I are contemplating a trip to the North Ridge this summer. I will just be doing the 1/2 ridge (or 1/5 depending on who you talk to) and the rap into the crappy gully (sorry folks, honestly, I just can't lead 5.8 unless I'm clippin' bolts (willing to aid though))and would like some input/help on the following questions.... Thank you in advance for being helpful! 1. Boots/rock shoes or approach shoes? I have some LaSportiva Trango boots that climb great. I'm thinking of wearing them the whole route, but considering approach shoes as well. I WILL be taking crampons. 2. Best Rope? I have a 7.8 60 meter 1/2 rope and am thinking about doubling it and simul climbing as much as possible. 3.Best place to bivouac? After my poor performance on the West Ridge I have no delusions of making this a 1 day affair. I would like to biv at the notch/top of the gully but lack of water seems an issue, I'm also thinking about goat pass. I will not be taking full bivy gear, just a warm jacket... or possiby throw a mountain goat in a headlock for the evening (bleet for me big boy). 4. Rack? 10 nuts, 6 cams and 3 hexcentrics do the trick? 5. I've saved the best for last... What is a reasonable amount of time for your average joe to climb the ridge? Everyones abilities are different, I'm talking AVERAGE here... Becky says 6 hours from the glacier... using the Standard Becky Multiplier (SBM) I come up with 12 hours. What do you think?

Will you let a fat man play too? Goal 195 by April 30 1/01- 220 2/06- 208

Let them dangle from your leash. Flame on!

The Reid is a fantastic route! You guys have fun and be safe.

I have been to the base of the poop chute several times, but have yet to climb it due to conditions. I'll catch it soon. Oh and by the way Raindawg, lighten up, smile every once in a while, it's fun!

Is that what those straps are for? I just put the rope under the lid or in the Sac... even when there is a strap... I guess i'm a big dummy. The Ice Sac is a great pack, I'm on my second one.

Even in June it will be cold on Rainier... If you get cold feet easily I would go with the plastic double boot, but I have not used them much lately. I have used my LaSportiva K2 leather boots on Rainier, Baker and Hood with great result, way more comfortable on moderate slopes due to the side to side ankle flexability.

Thank you for the steps! I went yesterday 1/26 for a solo outing to Lanes peak. The weather was perfect, blue skies and around 20 degrees. The light snow that fell Sunday night was not much, but the wind had transported quite a bit into The Zipper, knee deep in places, obscuring your tracks on the bottom third of the gully. I was able to avoid the potential slab by climbing on the far left side of the snow/ice.

Pt. 6040 is actually called "the Butt Cheeks" and the sweet looking route up the middle is called the "poop chute"