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Everything posted by bellows

  1. What plane wreck? You got me curious, all I could find online was the big C-141 crash, but that seems to be one valley over in the Home Lake drainage on the west side of Inner Constance and Warrior.
  2. [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017

    Pics? I think the easiest/fastest way off Cutthroat is actually the West Ridge that you came up. Three single rope raps off newer chains and some 3rd/4th class down climbing along the ridge. The lower two sets of chains aren't especially easy to find though.
  3. [TR] Argonaut Peak - NW Arete 6/2/2017

    Quality TR! Great beta on a fun route.
  4. Lying lonely on the Palmer snowfield on Saturday May 27, I'm sure it'd love to reunite with its mate. Looks like it's barely been used. PM me and I'll get it back to you.
  5. DC Route Questions

    I've done it several times both ways. I like leaving from IF better. The biggest drawback to me is the hike out. You get down from the summit to camp and rest/relax for a bit, then have to rope up again to get down to Muir. If you're leaving from Muir, when you get down from the summit to camp you can pack everything away and relax a bit more. There's no wrong answer here, both options work fine. Yes, still bring a single group shovel to smooth out a tent platform.
  6. DC Route Questions

    Ditto what DPS said. If you have three days, consider moving camp from Muir to Ingraham Flats on day two. With a three day window you also have some flexibility. If day three forecast looks bad but day two is good, push for the summit on day two. And don't downplay the DC, I've always found it an engaging route. You get to see several different aspects of the mountain and I enjoy the enthusiasm and anxious energy of all the climbers at Camp Muir. It may not be a wilderness experience but enjoy it for what it is.
  7. [TR] Colchuck Peak - NE couloir 4/2/2017

    Very cool. Lots of snow! The cornice tunnel looks like hard work, nice job.
  8. Icicle conditions?

    Very cool, thanks for reporting back!
  9. Icicle conditions?

    Dragontail? Do tell...
  10. [TR] Mt Shuksan - North Face 4/16/2016

    Very cool thread bump. That V-thread got me to search up the old thread from your FA. Pretty wild: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/271947/Ice_on_Shuksan
  11. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Three of us made it to Strobach for the first time on Saturday. Good times. We ended up lapping FOTL pitch 1 and gawking at lots of much harder climbs. First on the Left: The more moderate Sudden Change of Plans and Sad Ce'bu that we had hoped to get on looked thin/out. Dropline looked fat though: Hate Pony, Adrenalepherine, and Ponderosa Pillar looking intimidating: Unholy Baptism gnar: Temps are looking to remain cold for at least another week, go get some!
  12. [TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress 2/24/2017

    Nice pics! Timely beta, thanks for the report.
  13. Monday 2/20 - Ski tour with me and Fred B!

    Lol, awesome! I hope I still have the passion to get out in the snow like that when I'm 94, even if it's just for a minute.
  14. Monday 2/20 - Ski tour with me and Fred B!

    How'd it go? Share stories and pics!
  15. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Devils is open for business. Death-cicles are gone as of yesterday:
  16. [TR] Tooth - NE Slab 1/28/2017

    Fun route, thanks for the trip report!
  17. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Tydog, if you're looking for ice near Yakima the drip across from Umptanum Falls is fat right now. I took a few laps on it this morning. It's short but the approach is easy:
  18. St. Helens Presidents day weekend?

    FYI, the road to Marble Mountain sno-park is currently closed due to a landslide. You can only get as far as the FR81 turnoff which add several miles of snowy road walking each way.
  19. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    Frankouray Falls at Snoqualmie Pass is still holding strong: Not as fat as the previous weekend, but it certainly survived the warm wet weather from last week. It's such a convenient area to get to from Seattle. I'd be up for a dawn patrol this week if anyone wants to get a few laps in early and be back at work by noon.
  20. Trip: Mt Teneriffe - Kamikaze Falls Ice Date: 1/13/2017 Trip Report: AndrewF and I climbed Kamikaze Falls on Friday. It is a very visible and popular destination for the hiking crowd (ref WTA trip reports here) but I haven't seen any spray about it as an ice climb. After an extended cold snap like the last couple weeks, it becomes a very fun very moderate two pitch WI3 climb with a pleasant approach on a good trail. We got an extra early start so we could be gearing up by sunrise. The falls are mostly south facing and sun hits the upper tier by 10AM. The first pitch is a long 60m romp up WI2-3 steps with good rests and fun steps: End at a great belay ledge with big tree anchor. Looking back at the ledge from the start of the second pitch: The second ~20m pitch involved a sketchy wet traverse left, then a couple short steep WI3 steps before some vertical schwacking to several belay tree options. Easy walkoff to the east to catch the Mt Teneriffe climbers trail down. The warm weather this week will probably trash the upper section, but the first pitch might hold on and there is a great tree to rap off if you only do the first pitch. Some friends climbed the first pitch early on Saturday and said the top tier was already melted out a bit from the sun. Check out wta.org for periodic beta photos of the falls from hikers. Gear Notes: 8-10 screws, goretex Approach Notes: Microspikes!
  21. Nice trip report. And good job navigating the sometimes problematic tr feature on only your second post ever!
  22. Nice work! Looks like a good day. With the cold snap recently I'm surprised it was as wet as it was.
  23. Summerland looks like Winterland. Thanks for the shoulder season trip report and dosage of alpine inspiration! I'm slowly ticking off the Smoots myself and was up there snow free a month ago. I imagine the ledge traverse would be much more interesting with snow. One question, not that it matters but what are your rules for ticking a Smoot? He sometimes gives a couple variations on summits. I think in his book the South Chimney is the variation of the lower Middle Chimney walk up. Same question would go for Mount Anderson vs West Peak and Three Fingers South vs North Peaks. Just curious. Regardless, way to go Tim! Which one is left???
  24. Beacon

    Happy Birthday! Nice way to spend it. Don't panic, you've reached the ultimate answer age.