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Everything posted by bellows

  1. Way to get it done! Entertaining TR and quality pics.
  2. Strong work John! Looking forward to the TR to hear all the details.
  3. Go-to Training Hikes

    I've always liked Teneriffe much better than Mailbox or Si. You can also add some mileage and save your knees by taking the logging roads down and/or linking up with Si. Forgotten is a bit longer and much less crowded than Dickerman. Same trailhead. Rock Mountain out past Stevens Pass fits your criteria and is a really nice.
  4. Trip: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress Date: 8/12/2017 Trip Report: Carl & myself and Doug & Sasha climbed Slesse over the weekend as two teams of two. In summer and with a rope I still found it "very exciting". We timed the weather well, shortening our schedule and climbing the buttress all on Saturday to avoid being on wet rock in bad weather on Sunday. Friday evening we staged a truck on the Slesse Creek Road (2wd fine) and drove around to the TH on the Nesakwatch Creek Road (higher clearance recommended). Left the trailhead at dark and hiked 2+ hours up to the propeller cairn for a nice bivy. Our plan was to carry our light bivy gear up the route and crash somewhere on the backside if necessary. Saturday we were up at dawn and moving towards the start of the route. The buttress looming above us in the early morning light: The pocket glacier was effectively gone, leaving nicely polished slabs to walk up to the bypass ramps. We scrambled up the ramps and all the way to a small gendarme several hundred feet up the route. If you're comfortable getting across an exposed 4th class step around midway up the ramp then you should have no problem making it to the gendarme unroped. Starting up the ramps: We made it from the gendarme to the big bivy ledge via the direct buttress in 5 pitches with a bit of simuling. The crux 5.10 pitch was fun and juggy. The 5.9 pitch above it had a short tricky step that we thought was the hardest move of the climb. Carl leading the crux pitch: There's still some patchy snow for water above the bivy ledge: From the bivy ledge we made it to the summit in 6 pitches with a bit more of simuling. Carl arriving at the Slesse Sheraton with the buttress laid out below: Overall it took about 9 hours of efficient roped climbing up the route. Views on top were shrouded in smoke and clouds. Baker: Shuksan: Summit cheese: The register was an impressive read. "Very exciting" indeed: We crashed all the way back down to the truck around midnight, just as the first drops of rain started to fall. Perfect timing! Gear Notes: Crampons and an axe were not needed nor carried. Approach Notes: The trail is well marked and beaten in. It's amusing to read older trip reports about folks bashing through brush on the approach. It's a highway at this point.
  5. Lots of flowing water at the propeller cairn. Two weeks ago there was decent sized snow patch(es) above the big bivy ledge which may still be there. My guess is yes. You won't know until you hit the ledge though. There was also a smaller snow patch at the summit that may not still be there.
  6. Slesse-Crampons Necessary?

    Here's a pic towards the Crossover Descent from last Saturday morning: You certainly don't need crampons/axe for the Slesse Mountain trail descent. Very doubtful you need them for the Crossover. And if you can get up the buttress you probably have enough alpine trickery up your sleeve to deal with potential snow on the crossover anyways.
  7. Woah! I'm blown away. Amazing and inspiring. I don't even know where to start. I opened up caltopo to trace out your route and can't believe the amount of hard ground you covered. Totally nuts. Nice writing too, I enjoy your continuing battle with the night frogs!
  8. Very cool! The Maw looks... entertaining? Above it looks quite nice.
  9. Nice, that's one of my favorite routes in the Cascades and a great way to finish with the scenic walk down Sahale arm.
  10. Nice pics and entertaining dialogue, thanks for posting! What's peering out at you in the dark?
  11. Trip: Mt Deception & Others - Scrambles Date: 7/23/2017 Trip Report: I got my money's worth out of a trip into Royal Basin this past weekend. I was able to scramble Mt Clark, Martin Peak, Mt Deception, Mt Fricaba, Hal Foss Peak, and Mt Mystery over two days. I approached via Royal Creek Basin and exited through Heather Creek for a very long and fulfilling loop trip. First stop Mt Clark on the right via Surprise Basin. The corkscrew route was not intuitive but I had good beta from nwhikers here. Next stop Martin, which I reached from retracing my route back down Surprise Basin and contouring below a buttress ~EL 6200 to head up loose slab and scree towards the ridge between Martin and Deception. The true/alternate(?) summit was a fun fifth class boulder move up a skinny spire to a perched cairn: Back down the ridge, then dropping onto the Deception Glacier towards Deception Peak, going left of Gilhooley Spire up steep snow: Late in the day arriving on top of Mt Deception and was greeted by a very cool Brocken Spectre! I spent a long time on top, resting and enjoying the late day sun with my climbing buddy: Running out of daylight and running out of gas I dropped into Upper Royal Basin for the night. Full disclosure, I bandit bivied in the basin without the required NPS permit. I had fully intended to legally camp outside the park boundaries east of the Fricaba / Hal Foss ridgeline but at 9:30pm I discreetly laid down for some needed rest. I was up and gone at dawn with no one the wiser except now this forum. Breakfast on Fricaba, finally getting full views that Saturday clouds obscured. Is it called the Needles because of all the spires or because of all the fractured needle like rocks? Over to Hal Foss Peak and eventually to the base of Mystery. The cover girl of the OMCG had the complex route finding up the East Face, including some low fifth on iffy rock around an open moat. More snow or careful route finding would have been helpful and could have kept it 3rd class. Views were spectacular. Deception, Martin, Clark, and others: Olympus: Mt Anderson and West Peak: I exited via the lovely and lonely Heather Creek basin. An underrated gem and one the of prettiest places i think I've been. I didn't see any signs of a boot path or climbers waytrail in the basin which exponentially enhanced the beauty. A descending traverse high on the west side of the basin starting ~5600 was critical to avoid a messy schwack in the lower reaches. Eventually I met up with an old trail along the creek and eventually the Dungeness Trail back to my truck, physically exhausted but spiritually refreshed. Rough sketch of loop: Gear Notes: Trail runners, mountaineering boots, crampons, axe, HELMET
  12. Sorry Tim, I never saw it. And I was keeping half an eye out for it after reading your nwhikers post.
  13. [TR] Mt. Rainier - Emmons Glacier 7/24/2017

    Really nice pics. I especially like the flickr one of Camp Shurman with the prayers flags strung out in an arc. Thanks for sharing!
  14. question Clogged MSR Whisperlite International

    You can do that with a G-Works gas exchanger. Top off smaller canisters from bigger canisters or combine two half used canisters into one full and one empty. Works great. And you can recycle empty canisters. Just put a puncture hole in them to show they're empty.
  15. It was damn near magical. I was weary from a long day and tedious rock but when I saw the Brocken Spectre it all melted away.
  16. Very cool. Print out all the chapters and this would make an entertaining coffee table book. Thanks for taking us on the ride!
  17. [TR] Attempted Rainier Circumnav 8-13 July 2017

    Tease! To get around the gallery error, click on your name, scroll down and click on "view photos" to get into the gallery, then you can add pics etc.
  18. Can't access Gallery

    I've had this message for awhile from the direct "gallery" link. But there's a work around. Click on your name, scroll down and click on "view photos" to get into the gallery, then you can add pics etc.
  19. [TR] Baker - North Ridge 6/25/2017

    Try this: http://www.articleformatter.com/ Backstory: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1149152/Trip_Report_Issue#Post1149152 It's a frustrating issue but don't give up! TR's are what make this site go round.
  20. Really cool trip report. I love that you saw a wolverine, that's awesome!
  21. Trip: Mt Constance - Finger Traverse Date: 6/11/2017 Trip Report: I've spent almost 10 years looking at Mt Constance yet always seem to get distracted by other peaks in other places. Horror stories of a steep burnt out trail, endless loose scree, and a maze of gullies and ledges haven't made it especially appealing. But it's hard to ignore from Seattle and as with many prominent mountains I yearned to know what it looked like from the top. Thankfully the views aren't required to satisfy that yearning, it's just a simple need to demystify a view from afar. Which is good because Sunday the views were barely good enough to see the next gully or ledge ahead of me making a complex mountain that much more engaging. Traffic jam on the Dose road early morning Sunday: The road is now closed ~1 mile further downstream from the big washout. I brought a bike and made quick work of the now 5 miles to the old trailhead, then put in some earphones and set off uphill. The first 800' or so are an absolute mess of deadfall and brush and the old tread is only visible maybe half the time. There's a trail here somewhere: It gets better the further up you go and I reached the lake soon enough. At that point the weather was still promising: Avalanche Canyon and the south chute were mostly covered in frozen snow which made uphill travel quick and pleasant. As I neared the Cats Ears the cloud ceiling started dropping and by the time I got through to the other side visibility turned to pea soup: Even with poor visibility I'd read enough trip reports and had enough beta to piece together step by step directions from the top of the south chute: drop down below buttress, up scree gully, through notch, down snowfield, etc. It worked, albeit fairly slowly as I methodically checked and rechecked my beta. Eventually the summit block came into view, and the clouds even thinned a bit on the north side: On top looking down at my footprints where I traversed to the north side. The fog and clouds below make for a disorientating photo: More disorientation. Looking horizontal across the finger traverse: Finally orientated back in Avalanche Canyon late afternoon, the clouds parted and told me my timing was terrible for the upper mountain: Still a very cool area and now I have a reason to go back and see the views. Gear Notes: Helmet, crampons, and an axe for sure. Plus a bike! Approach Notes: Mother Nature has not been kind to the trail to Lake Constance.
  22. What plane wreck? You got me curious, all I could find online was the big C-141 crash, but that seems to be one valley over in the Home Lake drainage on the west side of Inner Constance and Warrior.
  23. [TR] Cutthroat Peak - West Ridge 6/11/2017

    Pics? I think the easiest/fastest way off Cutthroat is actually the West Ridge that you came up. Three single rope raps off newer chains and some 3rd/4th class down climbing along the ridge. The lower two sets of chains aren't especially easy to find though.
  24. [TR] Argonaut Peak - NW Arete 6/2/2017

    Quality TR! Great beta on a fun route.
  25. Lying lonely on the Palmer snowfield on Saturday May 27, I'm sure it'd love to reunite with its mate. Looks like it's barely been used. PM me and I'll get it back to you.