SkiMD

Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge Date: 6/15/2012 Trip Report: Climbed the North Ridge on Mount Baker car-to-car and experienced near perfect conditions today. We left the car ~2:45am (and were able to turn off the headlamps at 4am! Long summer days rock). Route finding on the lower Coleman was relatively simple due to stable snow bridges. We accessed the ridge on the right side (first couloir) and were able to easily bypass the 'schrund. After ascending to the ice step, we traversed climber's left and climbed two pitches of ice. Aside from knocking off the occasional large dinner plates, the ice was in pretty good shape. Snow conditions throughout the route were perfect (especially on the 40-45 degree snow above the ice step) and made for quick travel. Hit the summit around 12pm and after a little post-holing on the Upper Coleman we were back at the car by 3:45pm - 13hrs round trip. Some pictures: Excited for daybreak and sunny weather! Starting off on the ice step [Picture of skiers on the Coleman Headwall removed. We met the group on the summit - very nice guys. My condolences to the friends and family affected. I'm so sorry for your loss.] Gear Notes: We brought 2 tools each, crampons, 3 pickets, and 6 screws - this was adequate. Approach Notes: The road is snow-free until ~1/4 mile before the parking lot. The first bridge on the trail is washed out but there is a good log crossing downstream.

Hell yeah! Way to stay committed, and that is a great looking line.

Nice work, and congrats on the FA!

Nice work, those are great climbs!

We came down the Sherpa on 7/24 and ran into trouble crossing the bergshrund. It had clearly opened up in the few days prior to our descent as there were footprints across a bridge that had fallen 40' into the crack, and evidence of a separate rap station off one of the center rock islands that did not make it across the (now very large) gap. There was a potential snowbridge on the far east side of the glacier, but we were able to rap across a thin, unsupported bridge on the west side (probably collapsed by now).

Nice work!

Bomber bolt on the NE ridge of Bugaboo

Well done!

Nice! Looks like a great climb

I've got a pair of Dynafit TLT Vertical ST bindings (w/o brakes) up for grabs. Never mounted, still in the box. Price is $300. Cash preferred, paypal can be arranged if you're out of the Seattle area.

Stoke.

Nice work guys! Stoke.

Burly. Nice work.

Going up- If they were the group from Spokane, then yeah we saw them. They were behind us and we didn't see them again after the top of the 3rd pitch. We topped out around 4:30 and weren't back to the car until 7:15 - the ski out by headlamp took a while. I wouldn't expect to hear from them until late.

Sweet!

Trip: Chianti Spire - East Face - Rebel Yell Date: 9/18/2009 Trip Report: To take advantage of the gorgeous late-season weather, I convinced a buddy to head up to the North Cascades and take a swing at Rebel Yell. Overall the route was very enjoyable, and it was nice to have the whole Silverstar group to ourselves. A couple of things to note: currently, an ice axe and crampons are not necessary for the approach (until the snow starts again), and if you look hard enough there is still some running water to be found. We found a nice trickle on the west side of the spires on the approach, and my partner filled up on some ice-melt below Burgundy. Go get it. Liberty Bell Group from the approach East Face of Chianti Leading p4, with pitches 5 and 6 above (obvious cracks) Summit Acrobatics Gear Notes: Standard rack to #3 camalot, plus 2-3 pieces in the 4" range for the upper cracks. We brought doubles from #0.75-3 but probably could have gotten away with less. Approach Notes: Park yer car at the paved pullout just East of milepost 166. Head down the rubble and bear east looking for cairns that mark the start of the approach trail. Head up to the bench west of the wine spires, then follow cairns up and over Burgundy col. Once over the col, head south around Burgundy to reach the base of Chianti. All of the talus/scree east of the col is very loose - even the huge blocks.