marc_leclerc

Next you'll be saying he tilts his photos to make slabs look vertical!

Me and Braydon are buddies.... but I get what you mean....

You told me about that when I ran into you on Baker the week after.... I was that kid in the funny sunglasses at the base of the North Ridge. 8 hours is pretty good! did that Sherpa Guy do the round trip in less than 5 hours?

I was 9 years old in 2001

dude.. its like the light version of my first Slesse Attmept lol I always crack jokes about that epic now... you're lucky your epic was only a few hours... not 3 friggin days.

its really busy IMO... kinda hurts my eyes too lol.. but ill get used to it.

west ridge of Prussik? west ridge of Stewart? Forbidden Peak?

I like to solo Liberty Crack on my Spare time.

nevermind.. that isnt our gear then. Ill have it any ways though jk

I left bout 10 cams and two sets of chocks... also several biners and slings. that sound familiar?

Well there Grandpa Feck, you're starting to slip in the comprehension business too, Scott was saying he'd been looking at the line since Marc was in diapers. Back in '88 I don't think Marc had even been born! Yep.. I was born in 92' ... damn I feel like a little kid.

a wire brush with a scraper on the back.... its great!

also, if God doesn't exist why do you atheists spend sooo much time and effort finding problems with him? To find a problem with something, it has to exist.

It takes more faith to believe that everything in our world came together from complete chaos and rondomness than to believe it was desinged by an intelligent creator. write each letter of the alphabet on small peices of paper and throw them in the air, whats the chance that they will land in perfect alphabetical order? The chance of that actually happening is WAY more likely than our world coming together by random chance... just my 2 cents

you can also crush them whaen they are empty to make more space in your pack.

the line is super abvious actually, on the ridge coming toward-ish the camera

nice pic!!!

well said!

great, the ice had better be good this winter.

great job!^ isnt it a sweet route? We bypassed the harder climbing to pass other parties, not because they were too hard.

It was WAY warmer than last time... I did have a bivi sack and a down jacket though.

if you try it im guessing it will be loose and run-out, thats just by lookinga t close up shots of course.

Trip: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress Date: 9/7/2008 Trip Report: After my first attempt on the route in July I really wanted to get back on Mt Slesse and finish this classic route. On labour day weekend BStach and I headed up in mediocre only to get snowed on below the bivi site and rap down / descend in the dark. Even after I had been weathered off the route twice I decided to go for it yet again. Reinhard and I made plans to do the route and I posted for a third partner to help with car shuttle in the partners forum. Brabbit (Neale) joined us for the climb and we all slept at the memorial plaque that (friday) night. We woke up when four climbers from Seattle hiked past our bivi on their way to do the route but we were not happy with the weather. We hiked all the way up to the notch stopping several times for the weather to clear, when it was 2:00 PM we decided that the weather was not going to clear and we would rap down a gully into the basin below the pocket glacier cirque. But as we descended from the notch the weather cleared up and we were at the base of the bypass ledges by 3:30. When we were on the bypass ledges there was a team from the chzek republic 4 pitches below the bivi. WE simul climbed a bunch, stopped to belay a sort 5.8 pitch, and simul climbed the north face ramps around the crux to pass the other teams in the crux section. Just below the bivi ledge I led a great 5.8 pitch to the bivi ledge and we topped out at the ledge just behind the team of four and a pitch ahead of the chzek team. I think we spent maybe four hours on the lower buttress. From the bivi the route looked great! We half-slept until first light , packed up, and started simul-climbing easy terrain to the upper headwall. Our progress was slowed by rope drag and the other team of four caught up as Neale started leading the fist steep pitch on the upper section. This was afun pitch with some nice exposure and great juggy holds. I led the rotten pillar pitch after this wich was pretty mellow and not very rotten. The end of this pitch required standing up on a detached (but solid) block with mega exposure, good stuff! We were now at the upper crux, I requested to lead this one and Neale handed me the rack. The crux started with some neat climbing in a corner into some wicked bomber flakes, then I passed an old bolt and weaved a line through a couple cool roofs (not loose as the Beckey guide suggests) I was really happy with this pitch. I belayed my partners up and Neale cruised up the 'very exposed' 5.7 pitch. The climbing was very steep with great exposure but the rock had lots of holds and was never too hard. My feet were hurting by then and I was climbing in my approach shoes, luckily the last couple 5.8 pitches were not to hard for me to climb in my runners and me and Neale swapped leads up the last 3 pitches to the top. The final pitch was also great, I led up a steep crack and then through some random splitter granite to the summit. It was great to finally stand on the summit of Slesse after two attempts, I felt really great. After chilling on the summit we descended the standard route without difficulty down the super steep trail on the west side of Slesse. We had to hike to our cars at chilliwack lake road but it wasnt too bad. After a long descent I arrived back at my house at 1:00 AM and crashed until 7:00 when I had to go to school Overall I really enjoyed this climb, next time I do it I want to do the complete buttress and the direct middle section, it looks fun. Thanks Neale and reinhard for beaing a great partners. Gear Notes: a full rack, a couple doubles in the 'thin hands' size were nice. Approach Notes: Slesse Memorial trail, cross slabs throught notch, cross cirque to route.

Huh? We came no where near the pocket glacier doing the original start. Yeah the north glacier does dump stuff but as I said you are in the firing line for a couple of minutes. How long were on the pocket glacier? We were in the firing line of ice that was pretty unlikely to slide (thre are still a couple chunks on the slab that could go) for about 45 seconds. then we angled up and left to the ledges.

Then you are threatened not only by the very same pocket glacier, you are in the firing line of the north glacier as well.