marc_leclerc

It looks fairly steep from this other angle, bad picture on a bad day though. But here is some real eye candy for climbers!!!! MT. Byamee/sub peaks. None of the towers have been climbed. None of the ice lines have been climbed.

Butt ugly. Photo by Greg Jones: I would love to walk up that snow arete in the middle of the pic! WOW!

I was looking through some pics from the summer when I found this. I hadn't really payed much attention when looking through the photos before and hadn't noticed this sick couloir. Too bad the wing is in the way

three of those aren't even in the Coast Mountains I think he meant Western B.C in general, obviously Yak C.B.P and Slesse are the three....

1) Mt. Byamee and SE Ridge Towers 2) Mt. Waddington 3) Mt. Slesse and South Peak 4) Leda Peak 5) Crazy Peak 6) Canadian Border Peak 7) Yak Peak 8) Judge Howay 9) Mt. Geddes 10) Mt. Hardship

For such a fearsome creature T-Rex's sure have gay little arms.

Im drawing up topo to go with it... Ill scan and post it soon.

Its still funny though

Don Serl writes fantastic guidebooks and is on cc.com. Send him a PM. I had lunch with Dick Culbert a while ago too and he gave me his card. PM me if you would like his info.

I was bored so I wrote this. Could be useful to some. Tell me what you guys think. Approach: From Propeller Cairn at the end of the 'Slesse Memorial Trail' make a descending traverse across slabs towards a prominent notch in the East Buttress. Look out for ice blocks that can fall from above and 'ball bearing' rocks on the slabs. Ascend into the 'notch' (class 3) and downclimb/rappel to the pocket glacier cirque. The downclimb is extremely slippery and often takes parties longer than rappelling. Many trees on the right (east) side of the notch can be used for rappel. Once in the 'bypass glacier cirque' ascend towards the top of the cirque. If the glacier is present an ice axe or 'north wall hammer' will be needed to navigate the seracs and many crevasses the glacier usually holds. This area holds much objective danger for most of the year and parties should try to move through the cirque as quickly as possible. Route: From top of the 'bypass glacier cirque' ascend a prominent grassy ramp towards the Northeast buttress. There are two or three exposed moves on the ramp. Grassy Ramp: Class 3/4 The ramp joins the buttress in a treed section. Several easy pitches lead through this section. There is little exposure and the climbing consists of grassy ledges and short 4th class walls. Depending on the route you take through this section you should end up on a flat bench before a small notch in the buttress or in the notch before a prominent gendarme. This area is a good rope up point. Treed section: class 4 (possible short low 5th) From the notch, ledgy 4th class terrain leads around the left side of the gendarme and up near the ridge crest for a rope length. Stopping near a good belay ledge just below a slab on the crest. This is where the 5th class climbing begins. P1: From belay ledge, climb a slab on the crest via a small switch backing ledge. There is no protection until high on the pitch where the climbing is considerably easier. From the ledge above the slab, look for sling on a tree a few feet higher. Pull up onto this next ledge and belay from one of the trees. Run-out slab: class 5.7 P2: This is the first 'crux' on the route. Climb up to a short, prominent corner above the belay ledge. Stem up corner onto the next ledge and start climbing up a tricky ramp on the left. Partway up the ramp look for a good hold over the edge of the right-hand wall. Pull over two short walls (small pro) and then make an awkward move to the right into another corner. A short steep crack leads up to the next ledge. Climb one more short wall to a large ledge and tree belay. Short Walls Pitch: Class 5.8+ P3: Move leftt from tree belay and up easy terrain, cross to the north side of the buttress and climb past some trees and a small bivi ledge. Continue past the bivi ledge on the right hand side and climb continuous low 5th terrain to a ledge and a 'slung block' belay. This is where the 'direct' variation splits off from the original route. The direct route climbs steep rock to 5.9 or 5.10 on the buttress crest and is significantly cleaner than the north face option. Beta for the 'direct variation' can be obtained from 'Alpine Select' by Kevin McLane or the Beckey guide. North Face (Original) Route: P 4-7: From 'slung block' belay, traverse right on a 3rd class ledge to a sandy ledge. Continue traversing right towards a broken rib and climb continuous 5.7 corners and ramps just left of the 'broken rib' for two pitches. This section is often wet and slimy and had some slippery grass in sections. This is not the most aesthetic section of the route. From top of 'rib' climb an easy 'low 5th' ramp back onto the buttress crest. North Face section: 3rd class to 5.7 P8: Climb a steep corner near the crest. A tricky layback move leads into easier terrain and eventually the huge bivi platform on the route. 5.8 Above the bivi ledge several 4th class pitches to the right of the buttress crest lead to a ledge at the base of a prominent leaning pillar with a white base. This marks the start of the famous 'summit tower' pitches. P9: Climb cracks and corners to the right of the pillar. A short and loose vertical step provides the crux of this pitch. Above the vertical wall easy terrain leads to a good belay ledge. 5.8 P10: Climb exposed, but easy terrain very near the crest with good pro. There is some rotten rock here but the climbing is easy and highly enjoyable. Near the end of the pitch a move to the right leads to a good ledge and the base of the crux. Rotten Pillar Pitch: 5.7 P11: From belay ledge, move right into a prominent corner and climb steep, exposed 5.8 cracks to some solid flakes below a roof. A hand traverse to the left leads past an ancient bolt and around the first roof. Juggy side-pulls through steep terrain lead to a 'slot' in the overhang above. Climb past a fixed pin and through the slot (look for footholds on right) and run it out to a ledge with a slung block on the left. Crux/Overhangs Pitch: 5.9 P 12-13: Climb more steep and exposed terrain above the belay on huge 'jug' holds. Move past an alcove and through a steep section to a tiny bivi ledge and good belay. Can be done as one or two pitches. 5.7 P14: Climb a short steep crack above the bivi ledge and continue up easier blocky terrain to another ledge. Class 5.8 P15: A short overhanging off width crack (good pro) leads to a big ledge. Continue past some grey, solid pillars to the summit ridge. 5.8 Descent: From summit traverse south along the summit ridge and follow cairns into a loose gulley. Descend the gulley and traverse skiers left on ledges to a rappel block above a steep section. A 50m or two 25m rappels lead to another gulley between the mountain and a prominent gendarme. Before reaching the base of the gulley traverse skier’s right onto another good ledge. Continue traversing skier’s right along the west face of the mountain rappelling sections if necessary. Downclimb/Rappel one more gulley and then traverse and downclimb into the notch between Fraser Tower and Slesse (top of the 'North Rib' route) Descend this gulley to the moraine below the mountain. Pick up the steep descent trail on skiers right and descend to Slesse Creek Road.

[video:youtube]vSb-nV8l2QY

In a few years I will almost be half the age of most of the other cc.com guys.....

With the recent 'super warm' weather absolutely nothing is even close to being in shape.

I always put links to photos from other sites in my TR's... not my photo count looks pathetic

I wish I could walk to Stone Gardens.. too bad I live in Canada Eh....

The Cyborgs are great but are heavy. I think the Sabertooths are fantastic crampons for alpine stuff. Cyborgs are great on mixesd and steep ice.

ROTFLOL

That pumpkin gave (insert name here) a Blow Job....

Does anybody want to do the Cosley/Houston on Colfax this or next weekend depending on the weather? I live in Agassiz (chilliwack) and would need a ride. I could meet at Sumas or Aldergrove Exits. PM me if interested.

another 3 man band that sounds so much bigger...

lol... nice.. I didnt get grounded cuz my report card didn't come home yet.

The approach took our group 1 hour exactly from the car to the seracs. Its a really easy and nice approach.

If you are truly taking your climbing to the next level you shouldn't be dependant on guidebooks an beta for everything. Exploration and routefinding is a big part of hard and commiting alpine routes.

Its amazing eh? Did you make it up Colfax? I was at the seracs today... the '3' hour approach took us 1 hour flat BTW

Went to seracs today. We traversed in from a bit higher up to get to some bigger/less busy seracs. There were a couple good 'bunny hill' routes good for the beginners and some solid overhanging stuff to work the arms. The approach took us exactly 1 hour from the cars to the seracs. Conditions were really brittle on the shady stuff and very nice and plastic on the sunny seracs. Back up your screws with a V-Thread and check on them every so often. They like to melt out in the direct sunlight.