marc_leclerc

nice pic!!!

well said!

great, the ice had better be good this winter.

great job!^ isnt it a sweet route? We bypassed the harder climbing to pass other parties, not because they were too hard.

It was WAY warmer than last time... I did have a bivi sack and a down jacket though.

if you try it im guessing it will be loose and run-out, thats just by lookinga t close up shots of course.

Trip: Slesse Mountain - Northeast Buttress Date: 9/7/2008 Trip Report: After my first attempt on the route in July I really wanted to get back on Mt Slesse and finish this classic route. On labour day weekend BStach and I headed up in mediocre only to get snowed on below the bivi site and rap down / descend in the dark. Even after I had been weathered off the route twice I decided to go for it yet again. Reinhard and I made plans to do the route and I posted for a third partner to help with car shuttle in the partners forum. Brabbit (Neale) joined us for the climb and we all slept at the memorial plaque that (friday) night. We woke up when four climbers from Seattle hiked past our bivi on their way to do the route but we were not happy with the weather. We hiked all the way up to the notch stopping several times for the weather to clear, when it was 2:00 PM we decided that the weather was not going to clear and we would rap down a gully into the basin below the pocket glacier cirque. But as we descended from the notch the weather cleared up and we were at the base of the bypass ledges by 3:30. When we were on the bypass ledges there was a team from the chzek republic 4 pitches below the bivi. WE simul climbed a bunch, stopped to belay a sort 5.8 pitch, and simul climbed the north face ramps around the crux to pass the other teams in the crux section. Just below the bivi ledge I led a great 5.8 pitch to the bivi ledge and we topped out at the ledge just behind the team of four and a pitch ahead of the chzek team. I think we spent maybe four hours on the lower buttress. From the bivi the route looked great! We half-slept until first light , packed up, and started simul-climbing easy terrain to the upper headwall. Our progress was slowed by rope drag and the other team of four caught up as Neale started leading the fist steep pitch on the upper section. This was afun pitch with some nice exposure and great juggy holds. I led the rotten pillar pitch after this wich was pretty mellow and not very rotten. The end of this pitch required standing up on a detached (but solid) block with mega exposure, good stuff! We were now at the upper crux, I requested to lead this one and Neale handed me the rack. The crux started with some neat climbing in a corner into some wicked bomber flakes, then I passed an old bolt and weaved a line through a couple cool roofs (not loose as the Beckey guide suggests) I was really happy with this pitch. I belayed my partners up and Neale cruised up the 'very exposed' 5.7 pitch. The climbing was very steep with great exposure but the rock had lots of holds and was never too hard. My feet were hurting by then and I was climbing in my approach shoes, luckily the last couple 5.8 pitches were not to hard for me to climb in my runners and me and Neale swapped leads up the last 3 pitches to the top. The final pitch was also great, I led up a steep crack and then through some random splitter granite to the summit. It was great to finally stand on the summit of Slesse after two attempts, I felt really great. After chilling on the summit we descended the standard route without difficulty down the super steep trail on the west side of Slesse. We had to hike to our cars at chilliwack lake road but it wasnt too bad. After a long descent I arrived back at my house at 1:00 AM and crashed until 7:00 when I had to go to school Overall I really enjoyed this climb, next time I do it I want to do the complete buttress and the direct middle section, it looks fun. Thanks Neale and reinhard for beaing a great partners. Gear Notes: a full rack, a couple doubles in the 'thin hands' size were nice. Approach Notes: Slesse Memorial trail, cross slabs throught notch, cross cirque to route.

Huh? We came no where near the pocket glacier doing the original start. Yeah the north glacier does dump stuff but as I said you are in the firing line for a couple of minutes. How long were on the pocket glacier? We were in the firing line of ice that was pretty unlikely to slide (thre are still a couple chunks on the slab that could go) for about 45 seconds. then we angled up and left to the ledges.

Then you are threatened not only by the very same pocket glacier, you are in the firing line of the north glacier as well.

Me and me partner are looking for a third climber to try Slesse NEB this weekend. We basically need another partner to help with the car shuttle. We are planning to do the climb in two days, bivying at the Helicopter ledges and descending via the slesse mountain trail on the west side. PM me if interested.

Nice TR, looks like you had a better trip than me

If you want to avoid crowds come climbing in the Fraser Valley.

I drove it in my moms carolla, it has been greatly improved now.

Nice! Its amazing what young kids can climb. When I was climbing at the age of 11 me and my friends were sending sport routes WAY beyond what I could generally climb now. Partly because I do more trad and alpine now but I still dont sport climb as hardas I did when I was 12.

That makes Crap Crags look like clean rock. so true, reminds me of the beginning of Rexford's East Ridge.

I also fall into this category and have to agree.

damn... I had my first day of grd 12. It was boring

What kind of shape is the road in? Any updates?

I only have one year left... my 3rd grade teacher hated me because i was loud and couldnt write neatly... I spent most of that year in the hall... my high school teachers just get mad when I do backflips in the middle of class and climb ont the building... I also got into some trouble for jumping out a 2nd story window at lunch... teachers are such worriers...

Slesse NEB...

Ive sent Okay messages several times.. worked every time.

More or less.... the only parts you have to figure out are the ice sections at the bottom and the crux.

Snow conditions were nice.. routefinding is easy with all the boot tracks... even without the tracks it would be fairly easy.

how long is Slesse creek rd to walk out?

Kicks Ass! VT8uiT_rZ5k