marc_leclerc

Me and me partner are looking for a third climber to try Slesse NEB this weekend. We basically need another partner to help with the car shuttle. We are planning to do the climb in two days, bivying at the Helicopter ledges and descending via the slesse mountain trail on the west side. PM me if interested.

Nice TR, looks like you had a better trip than me

If you want to avoid crowds come climbing in the Fraser Valley.

I drove it in my moms carolla, it has been greatly improved now.

Nice! Its amazing what young kids can climb. When I was climbing at the age of 11 me and my friends were sending sport routes WAY beyond what I could generally climb now. Partly because I do more trad and alpine now but I still dont sport climb as hardas I did when I was 12.

That makes Crap Crags look like clean rock. so true, reminds me of the beginning of Rexford's East Ridge.

I also fall into this category and have to agree.

damn... I had my first day of grd 12. It was boring

What kind of shape is the road in? Any updates?

I only have one year left... my 3rd grade teacher hated me because i was loud and couldnt write neatly... I spent most of that year in the hall... my high school teachers just get mad when I do backflips in the middle of class and climb ont the building... I also got into some trouble for jumping out a 2nd story window at lunch... teachers are such worriers...

Slesse NEB...

Ive sent Okay messages several times.. worked every time.

More or less.... the only parts you have to figure out are the ice sections at the bottom and the crux.

Snow conditions were nice.. routefinding is easy with all the boot tracks... even without the tracks it would be fairly easy.

how long is Slesse creek rd to walk out?

Kicks Ass! VT8uiT_rZ5k

I hope Marc didn't take any big ass whippers (20 feet). I had a bolt at my waist....

I did mention that I didnt send.... thats not real chestbeating lol

Ill post one... heres me on a random 5.12d/5.13a in Kamloops.. I didnt send... Its arguably the most difficult climb ive attempted.

The climber at the end there is my partner and I'm just out of sight. We were on the route too, but my hip was acting up so we ended up turning back - Sorry David Glad to see you guys had a successful trip. Congrats! Great pictures Sorry, Matt and David, despite the summit whiteout we didn't get any pictures of it like you asked because our only camera had run down the other side of the mountain already

I definitely couldn't have climbed that without square dancing lessons ... no way man! Yeah, this route is super fun.... i could go do it again any day.... btw, we only had doubles of cams in the finger and thin hand sizes.... in the hand and fist size we only had a couple cams...

you place your screws at hip level... otherwise its hard to apply enough pressure to get them to bight easily....

Those are NOT tilted!!! Thats how it really is

I posted the pics that Mike sent me...

Trip: Mt Baker - North Ridge Date: 8/23/2008 Trip Report: Me and a few guys from cc.com headed out to climb the North Ridge of Baker on Friday Evening. We met up at the trailhead a 10:00 PM and crashed in the parking lot until 4:00 AM. I had heard many people talk about starting between 12:30 AM and 2:00 AM so I was a bit concerned about our late start shortly after 4:00. The trail was nice and easy to follow by headlamp and we ended up at the toe of the glacier after a couple of hours of hiking. We followed an easy boot path to a large shoulder on the glacier and started traversing towards the North Ridge. The direct, right-hand start looked very threatened by rockfall so we opted for the longer left-hand route around the toe of the ridge. We split into two rope teams and my rope-partner Mike led accross a shrund and up some steep ice slopes. I followed the pitch and left the screws in place for Matt to clip on his way up. When I arrived at the belay I discovered I had two screws to lead the next ice pitch. I ran out the next pitch to the top of the ice cliff and once everybody was on the easier angled section of ridge we began the trudge to the crux ice cliff. As we neared the ice cliff the slope steepened and made for some nice climbing. We set up a belay at the base of the crux step and Matt led directly up the ice cliff. The ice was very nice and we got nice sticks with nearly every swing. The slope eased off again and we climbed up towards the summit following a boot path heading slightly right of the large seracs guarding the summit. There were a couple nice steep ice steps that we climbed to gain the summit plateau but as me and Mike reached the summit a white-out came down on the summit and the wind started howling. Mike was getting too cold in the wind and basically untied and started down the coleman-deming route to get out of the wind. I waited at the top of the final ice step for Matt and Braydon to catch up and the three of us roped up on the summit and headed down the standard route in the white out and fading light. Once we descended out of the summit whiteout we donned our headlamps and slogged all the way down the coleman glacier. We followed the obvious boot path down to the point where the trail meets the glacier, packed up, and then took a quick break (I actually slept for a few minutes) and then hiked out the trail in the dark. We eventually reached the cars at 2:00 AM, 22 hours after we started. Having four climbers slowed us down a bit in the technical bits and we took a few breaks on the way down but our time seemed a little slow compared to some other TR's I've read (average 19-20 hours) Overall it was a great trip, good partners, great route and decent weather(minus the summit white-out). This was also a neat climb for me because it was my first volcano, 3000m peak, and alpine ice route! Start of the Route Me following Me leading Matt on the ridge Crux ice cliff Matt leading the crux Braydon following the crux Climbing high on the route