marc_leclerc

I've never dropped anything important.. just a few partners... I dropped an ice screw once.. it was emberassing. I hada guy drop a leashless tool on me from the top of the first pitch of Icy B.C while I was belaying

I often simul the approach to climbs. Slinging trees and shit... I beleive in safety.

Pretty much..... it's amazing!

Rapping off a 'protection' bolt

Don's old ridgid stem cams with home made slings just make you feel like a badass

Can you provide directions to this place?!??? It my backyard in Agassiz

So I was going to go bouldering at the bluffs and I saw this old guy rapping off of a single bolt... his harness looked a bit old too and he was using a munter hitch... I told him that I thought his style was bad and he told me he had been climbing longer than I have been alive and I was like 'well, I boulder like V crazy so I am entilted to an opinion and know stuff about climbing' and we were so mad I was ready to punch him and he yelled at me. ISN'T THAT FUCKING NUTS GUYS!

Adrian the Romanian? In Eiger Dreams?

ohhhhhhhhh..... I feel bad now about some previous comments. I can see how a screw up could occur there especially if the guide is kinda screwy there. I had the idea that after you dropped down the talus below the ridge you went down those gullies directly into the bowl beneath the glacier cirques, and that seemed like a pretty retarded thing to do. There is a way to avaoid leaving gear wherer you did and another way to avoid rapping at all but it has some steep heather where an ice ax would be a good idea.

I graduated, Im 16 but I skipped grade 7. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3405/3603049241_173ac375d1_o.jpg

The 'casual descent' has a short section of stiff 4th class (or a short rappel) but is mostly very easy. Alpine Select by Kevin Mclane or Hiking & Climbing in Southwestern B.C should cover it.

Trip: Old Settler - West Buttess Date: 9/13/2009 Trip Report: When I saw the weather forecast calling for sunny skies on the weekend I immediately began thinking of hard climbs do go and do, then it dawned on me that my girlfriend, Tamara, had only made one foray into the alpine this year and it had ended six pitches up when our rope was chopped by a falling rock. I figured I should take here on a nice alpine trip before the weather started to turn for the worse. I had climbed the west buttress of Old Settler previously and knew it was well worth repeating. It is about 10-12 pitches in length but never exceeding easy 5th class (perfect for scrambling), has a short approach and phenomenal rock! I called up my friend Matt and he liked the idea so at 7:00 on Saturday morning he picked us up in Agassiz and off we went. Some time was wasted searching for my helmet (which was never found) but we reached the start of the approach at about 8:45 and were off by 9:00. An hour and a half of overgrown road walking and some bushwacking brought us to Daiphy lake below the Settler. After some chilling att he lake we hiked up to the base of the buttress. WE switched to rock shoes and started climbing. The rock is awesome and the climbing is exposed and fun! After an hour and a half of simul soloingwe reached the summit (south summit) and chilled for a while. The descent is traighforward and easy with some 4th class down climbing and lots of easy talus hiking back tot he lake. Tamara's boots self destructed on the descent and the soles came right off making the hike out a bit painful for her feet but she is a trooper and managed just fine. The hike down was uneventful other than a nose bledd (stopped with a sock) and some angry wasps (no one got stung) and were back at he car 8 hours after starting. This climb always keeps a smile on your face! Highly reccommended! Gear Notes: Rock Shoes. Approach Notes: Drive up Talc Creek from Harrison East FSR. Easy approach, take the right side of the bowl to the lake.

Where are the gullies you are speaking of then? At one of the 'critical routefinding' spots? I thought you went down a gully in the forest above the memorial.

My goodnes.... I didn't mean to hurt your feelings now. I'm sorry. But you wrote a comment stating that the Crossover descent flat out sucks and told everybody not to do it and then when you described how it sucks it was apparent that you were completely and totally off route and went down one of those disgusting gullies instead of just taking 20 minutes to traverse into a nice old growth forest that even has flagging leading you in the right direction for goodness sake. And therefore it was not fair to completely bash the descent and tell nobody to do it after a gross routefinding error occurred. Im not going to recommend trying it in the dark or in a storm or when you are absolutely dead tired or anything but its just like a typical ridge traverse with a rappel (that can be by-passed) at one point and then talus walking and a flagged old growth forest. Pretty decent IMO.

Crossover Pass is only as Suck as whoever does the routefinding Now. Now. Let's all play nice... We followed this topo and felt that it was pretty honest in it's overall description. However, there was one section where the topo was a little bit off in what he calls the "Second Crux Routefinding" area and we never found the "trail" with flagging in the woods down low, even after traversing the hillside repeatedly. I think I could do it a lot faster now that I wouldn't be looking for signs of humans passing before me. There are very few carins to follow, only a few rap anchors to speak of, and no worn trail anywhere on the descent. We also upset a beehive on our way down, which really wasn't very much fun... That said, if I were to do it again, I would go down Slesse Creek. Jason I wouldnt go into the alpine If I couldnt find the descent because they was no sign of other people going that way, you don't do much new routing do you? That just reinforces my previous comment about the routefinding. If you know you dont have the mountain routefinding sense to descend crossover pass quickly then yes, go down Slesse Creek.

Even I know when she says 'go climbing "ITS FINE"' I really shouldnt go or she will be pretty pissed

Im probably gonna get flamed for this but I have to say something... Can you guys please stop picking on Josh Lewis? I know he's done some irresponsible things in the mountains and I don't have a problem with you guys giving helpful suggestions or contructive critism but why the relentless flaming? He mentioned in a previous thread that he is highly-functioning autistic and my little 12 year old brother has the exact same problem. I always have to defend and stick up for my little bro becasue he does some silly/strange things and get picked on a lot. I see from a first hand perspective what constant teasing and tearing down does to these kids and I don't like it at all. This is why it really makes me angry when I see you supposedly 'grown up adults' making uneccesarry, confidence destroying, destructive comments towards Josh and I would like to see some people doing what they should me doind: building people up, not tearing them down through mean comments and rude messages. Just had to get that out...

1 hour away from my house!

'treadmill for the wife' Burn!

awesome stuff!

The best way to get pumped less is to get pumped more. Steep routes are loads of fun but you do need to develop core strength and be able to do a few pull ups now and then. Boulderign can help with the power of the moves themselves. Hangboards can help you train your tendons no to snap when you manage to stick the throw to the mono pocket too, pretty useful if you want to climb lots.

I really can't wait till I get my drivers liscence now... holy smokes I cant wait to try this!

Yep, pleasant ridge walking, an optional rappel, some easy talus and pleasant old growth forest. It really helps to know where you're going though. With a fine tuned 'wilderness/alpine sense' you can figure it out or bring a map or topo. I went up Crossover peak once which is how I figured it all out, it helps to go up something before trying to find the route down. There is a good tope that Jeremy Frimer wrote somewhere on this site. As for hauling packs, go light + it isnt super steep except for a few moves if you do the central headwall but the holds are big. Have fun!

You seem to life roof cracks Have you tried Zombie Roof (12d/13a) is Squamish? that would give you another climb to compare the tempest roof to....

Crossover Pass is only as Suck as whoever does the routefinding