marc_leclerc

If you are skilled you dont scar the rock that much.... I doubt this guy left any noticeable sratches.

Well there is nothing reliable on the coast, thats why we have super technical but short climbs a lot of the time it seems. The collumns are 20 meters but you can dig holes through it without finding a real stick or any pro, thats the story a lot of the time. I definitely want to go to the rockies and try some of their steep but 'good-ice' lines for sure. But right now I have 3 dollars to my name and the rockes are kinda far away...

Its sick when he matches on his tool in the ice blob... makes me want to puke.

ummmmm... maybe its my straight shaft leashed tools holding me back then I have only managed to lead WI5 so far and I can lead 5.12+ and onsight 5.12- trad ... I think it also has to do with headspace, as WI6 (on the coast) always seem to involve very sparse pro, possible big air time and scary hooking on shit ice....

you avatar pic moron!

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Trip: Box Canyon - Tamara's First Ice! - Happy Harvester Date: 1/10/2010 Trip Report: Dru, Jmace, Tamara and I hiked into Box canyon on nice hard snow in about 30 minutes. The temps were super warm and ice was falling off of all the hard routes so Dru and Jmace went and climbed 'Labyrinth' and I took Tamara over to 'Happy Harvester'. I taught her how to swing and use her feet and place screws, then I led the fun little WI2+ pitch and put in a 2 screw belay. She followed the pitch no problem with Jesse's Aztars we loaned us set up to be used leashless. She climbed smoothly and had no problems at all with the pitch, even sneakily hooking my pick holes sometimes She still doesn't own ice boots so we tried to set her up with some snowboard boots with strap on mountaineering crampons Dru loaned her to use It was pretty sketchy! Pitch 2 was a short WI2- on hero ice then we walked up to the base of P3, but it was super warm and wet and we weren't sure what the others were up to so we rapped off. One tree rappel and one V-Thread Rap got us down. Tamara was super scared rapping off the V-Thread, even after I bounced around showing her how strong it was We walked out to find the other guys waiting at the car and drove back to get cofee in Hope. It was so much fun teacher her how to climb ice, I think she is definitely psyched to get some real boots!! waiting for the guys to pick us up in the AM. Just kick your boot in and stand! Grim Reaper, across the valley! Great Route! Festering wall on the left, P1 of Happy Harvester on the right. Yup, just twist that thing into the ice and it should stay! About to start climbing! I put in a coupel screws for her to practice taking out.. and for directionals... and to save me if I fell off of course Smiles and hero ice on P2 we could have gone up there but didnt... Don't take a pic.. helmets look dumb! Gear Notes: some screws. 6 was plenty for our route. Approach Notes: Cake, 30 mins.

No! I laughed so hard though, I nearly fel out of the computer chair when I watched it,

Save your money for good modern ice tools, like Cobras or Nomics. Or you might end up like me trying to climb WI5 with shit tools and wondering why I didn't just spend another 100$ for a set of something decent.

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You forgot rule 16: Be really fucking strong, work your technique for speed and energy management (I suck at this) and when the ice and sticks are bomber run it out because placing screws takes time and energy.

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totally... but there are people with badass-skillz that can climb hard stuff on that rock. Funny how Craig gets further than Boyd and Stanhope though, theres a difference between Slesse and Squamish granite I guess

Rock quality also differs markedly as you cross the valley Individual pitches on the East Face of Slesse have been freed at 5.12d

You mean the Coast Mountains??? How about 'The Smoke Show' on the South Buttress of Combatant. Thats like 5.13a, 3,500 feet or something. I am aquainted with the guys that put it up and they said it was awesome, and they pretty much flashed it in 11 hours or something. * okay, i believe the deal was... Matt sent the 13a pitch with some work but didn't manage to red-point it so he just pulled on one peice of gear to get through the crux move. The rest went free at 5.12d wich they sent on-sight. Thats a pretty outstanding effort! [video:youtube]v=OaEStJx9bgA

That youtube video... Burdo says something like that about the filter pitches. maybe it used to be X, before he added bolts.... when we climbed it, i'd say there was a bit of PG type 5.9 runout up high on the route, approaching the big roof. everything else seemed well protected, either with gear or bolts. Okay cool, yeah it sounded to me like there was some runout 5.11 in some overhanging corners. Thanks for clearing that up, I hope I can find a way to get out there and try it sometime...

That youtube video... Burdo says something like that about the filter pitches.

I heard there is some 5.11 X in the filter pitches.... how bad is it?

"Hey, this is Doorish. Some fuck cunts have hacked my twitter and are posting shit. Got to resolve this fucking disaster. " hahahaha!!!

I just meant that the other rock videos recently posted have been on bigger lines that make fora more impressive video But I liked this one so I posted it up!

Seems to be the flavour of the week (the video part, not the lame part) Here is my contribution: [video:vimeo]8589812

'Hard' is a relative thing. Dragons of Eden looks fucking rad! So does Vanishing Point....

Kinda true... probably more like WI5 X ... but thats the problem with WI ratings. It can vary so much during just one season. Its short for the grade but has the ice quality, technicality and seriousness of a grade 6 but is too short for the entire 'pump' factor. Whatever, it was an impressive lead by a solid climber.

[video:youtube]v=8JPe0irGUn8 Short movie-film of John on Fender Bender