Le Piston

Some of my favorites for day climbs are Sahale, South Early Winters Spire, Liberty Bell, Ingalls, and Black Peak. I hope the weather cooperates for you.

The REI Labor Day sale flyer just came out and they advertise the Osprey Aether 70 for $199.99. I have the Aether 60 and love it...but get what you really want for fit and features. I just figured you might find some use for the extra $200. I tend to agree with sparverius though and have also got the Osprey Exos 58...around $220 and 2.5 pounds. As long as I don't go over 40 pounds of load, it is comfortable and more durable than it looks.

Thanks. The thought did cross my mind, but I didn't bring any wine or basting materials. It sure would have beat my ham and cheese sandwich!

If you go via Aasgard Pass to Little Annapurna, you go right past Colchuck Lake (but not Ingalls). It is a long day, but not too bad. I did it last year. I suggest an early start. Here's a couple pictures from that trip.

Nice work gentlemen and great pictures! Thanks for posting.

Since it sounds like distance isn't an issue, let me throw a couple more possibles your way: Ingall's Lake and Colchuck Lake Both are less than 14 miles round trip and have nice trails...and pretty nice views.

I agree about Cascade Pass, but you might also look at Mount Aix and Snowgrass Flats...a little closer to Mt. St. Helens. I'm sure you want more trail time compared to driving time. Wherever you go, enjoy!

Thanks, now I don't feel like such a whimp, not climbing because of cold hands, deteriorating weather, and a high reading on the choss-o-meter.

I wish I could tell you. I had discussed going up there last week with my partner after hearing how great the views were. He convinced me that they would be just as good or better from the summits of Woolley and Diadem, so we didn't go up there. Sorry!

Trip: Sahale Peak - Sahale Glacier/West Ridge Date: 8/21/2010 Trip Report: Before heading back to work I wanted to do a mellow overnight trip. Sahale isn't a hardman climb, and I have done it many times, but never as an overnighter. My friend Rod wanted to do Johannesburg, but that didn't sound mellow to me, so off we went up Sahale Arm. We scored the primo camp spot and enjoyed the scenery. For a short approach, you can't beat the views here. We were treated to a nice sunset. The morning was very nippy and made for firm snow on the Sahale glacier. To make it a bit more sporting, we went up the steeper snow slope and did more of the West ridge rock scramble than usualWe considered moving on to Boston Peak, but our hands were frozen and the rain showers to the southeast convinced us to call it a day. We enjoyed the bear and grouse sightings on the way out.I know many of you have sprinted up Sahale as a day trip, as I previously had done, but consider doing it as an overnighter...you won't be sorry. Gear Notes: Ice axe and crampons. We took a rope and small rock rack in case we could fit Boston in. Bring a good book, paper, camera, liquid refreshments...you'll have plenty of time to hang out. Approach Notes: Sahale arm trail in great shape and snow free. Lots of bear sightings!

Trip: Woolley and Diadem - Diadem SE Face variation and Woolley N. Ridge Date: 8/16/2010 Trip Report: After my friend Rod hurt his hand on the approach last summer, we considered this a grudge match...we had to come back and climb these peaks! So, after the frigid Sunwapta river crossing (it doesn't get any better with repetition) we hiked up Woolley creek to the basin below the two peaks. We set up camp in a nice rock walled spot (same as last year) and went up to the glacier to recon the route. Our plan was to do the Southeast face, which takes a snow gulley all the way to the summit, but there were big cornices at the top. So, we decided to climb a gulley between the Woolley-Diadem col and the summit. We arose at 0400 and joined up with Dow Williams and Ferenc Jasco who were climbing the same route. After navigating through some crevasses on the lower glacier, we started up the SE face gulley. The gulley never got above 45 degrees and the snow was just soft enough for good step kicking. At the top of the gulley it was icy and a bit overhanging, so we trended left and pulled onto the Diadem summit ridge. A short snow slog led to the rocky summit scramble with views of nearby Woolley, Alberta, and the Icefields peaks.We descended scree and snow down to the col and headed up the long North ridge up Woolley.We enjoyed the views from the summit and a traditional Ritter Sport chocolate bar to celebrate.Then it was back to the col and descend snow to what is described as easy scree and ledge scramble down (Canadian for loose and hard to find) which lead back to the lower snow gulley. I punched into one crevasse on the way down from the col, which Dow and Ferenc missed unroped (lucky). It was a really nice climb and fantastic views (unfortunately I can't seem to download all the scenic panorama shots). It was nice to be able to bag two 11,000 foot peaks in one day in such a beautiful area. Unfortunately, that night smoke from forest fires filled the whole Columbia Icefields area. We decided to head back home instead of climbing more Canadian peaks. This is definitely one of the easier approaches to Canadian 11,000ers and has incredible views of Mt. Alberta, North Twin, and surrounding peaks. Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. I was glad to have two tools for the gulley. We took a 30 meter rope, a picket each (not used) and a few ice screws (not used). Approach Notes: The Sunwapta river is bitterly cold, but didn't get above thigh level (or crotch for shorter partners). The trail beside Woolley creek is well cairned all the way up to the basin near the glacier. The descent route is a bit hard to follow.

Thanks...appreciate all the hard work on making Cascade Climbers such a great site!

I don't know if this is a viable option for you, but I do a lot of training hikes up Mt. Si and other trails with my weight primarily as water (in bottles or Dromidary bags) in your 40-50 pound range. I start with 25-30 pounds and work up. I dump the water before heading downhill (easier on my old knees). It really helps my strength and endurance for climbs and beats the gym or home for fresh air and scenery (if I can't go on a climb in the first place...the best training after all). Good luck with your first climb!

I've been using G7 3-in-one instant coffee and the Via for that cup of ambition in the mountains. The G7 comes with cream and sugar...just add hot water. One packet is 16 grams and 60 calories. I've found the G7 at asian and discount food stores...not Starbucks, but plenty tasty for a non-coffee snob.

How do I contact the CEO? I see other people doing trip reports and getting their pictures in just fine...like I used to be able to do. What has changed that won't allow me to upload pictures?

Beautiful route and pics! I also have 3 kids and totally relate. You aren't too old to enjoy trips like this...it's what keeps us alive. Being slower just gives you more time to take it all in. Keep on rockin'!

Strong work guys. My partner has been trying to talk me into this climb for this summer. It strikes me as an impressive peak with more than it's fair share of objective hazards and route finding problems. When I was doing a solo trip up Sahale two weekends ago I heard numerous rock and ice sloughs off J-burg...makes you think! I'm drooling in anticipation over Steph's pictures. Maybe I can get inspired to go veggie climbing yet!

Until you design and market this boot (I'll buy a pair!) I guess I will continue to utilize the multiple boot/shoe approach. I find that if the climbing is lower 5th class, I use my La Sportiva Trangos. If there is little or no snow on the approach and the rock climbing is up to about 5.8ish, I use my Guide Tennies. Anything more difficult I go for the real rock shoes (Mythos, Huecos, or my multi-resoled Kaukulators).

Thanks...That worked to clear the queue, but again when I tried to upload a single picture, it said successfully uploaded and nothing shows up either on my picture gallery or on "alpine climbing" which was the other category I tried. Where are the pictures going? Suggestions?

I'm having similar problems. I have a queue full of pictures to upload, but I get the error code or dreaded squirrel when I try to get them into my gallery. I've tried going through the Gallery and TR photo icon, nothing is working. I used to have no problems uploading pictures. I have several "tickets" for help, but still unable to add pictures. Help!

I am totally jealous! I was supposed to be doing this exact trip, but my wife wanted a family trip. So while you had this beautiful climb, I was sweating in Washington DC. Nice TR and great pictures. I'll hopefully get there some day. Thanks for the post.

It ain't perfect, but what tent is? TMO is right, you trade space and wind stability for weight and convenience. As for snow or other unwelcome debris, you can lift the entire tent (door down) and shake out whatever is on the floor. I had my Firstlight almost blow away on the Eldorado Glacier, but luckily had tied it to a deadman. I also love this tent, but try to take it for longer trips where the weather is supposed to be good. I have used it in snow, rain, wind, etc. and it has held up just fine. It helps if you really like your partner...very snug.

I have to agree with Denalidave...Prusik West Ridge is one of the best moderate alpine rock climbs in the state. You might also look at (as Summitchaser said) Liberty Bell (Beckey Route), Ingalls Peak, Stuart West Ridge, Dorado Needle, and Dragontail's Serpentine arete. These have been among my favorites for decent rock, great views, and moderate difficulty.

This confirms my suspicions about the NeoAir. I'm a gear junky...especially if it's lighter or better than what I already have. I hopped on the NeoAir at REI and couldn't immagine it standing up to much abuse, so I passed on it. My Prolite 3 is pretty light and much more robust...I've never had a leak yet. Thanks for the post!

Nice work there! Glad to see someone was able to download pictures aplenty for their TR. Sounds like similar snow to what I had over the weekend...my boots were pretty wet at the end of the trip over Snowfield way. Nice TR and great pictures...thanks for sharing.