Plaidman

The birds are flying. The chick has fledged. Why are we not calling the rangers and Dave Anderson? Plaidman

That I would trust on aid. Not sure I would trust it as a free piece.

WOW!!! Very frightening. I think I would pass on that one.

The one that fits the crack. I carry so much gear it is ridiculous. But my favs are: #1 C4 Camalot .05 C4 Camalot Pink TriCam #8 BD nut And a hex placement gets me really feeling sexy. Plaidman

Huh? I can't think of any hangers on p2 or p3 of the Corner. I am sure there were at least one rotten nasty tinfoil looking hanger just above and left of the crux on the 3rd pitch.

Here is a pic for Steins Pillar old rotten gear along with the new. Photo credit rpc on MountainProject.com

Try the 3rd pitch of the South East Corner of Beacon Rock. There is some scary stuff on that one. Weird hangers with button heads.

This may explain why we climb. This video is by Fall On Your Sword.

Guide Book for the Valley Yosemite Valley Free Climbs http://www.climbmaxmountaineering.com/yosemitevalleyfreeclimbsguidebook.aspx

http://www.accessfund.org/site/apps/nlnet/content2.aspx?c=tmL5KhNWLrH&b=5000939&ct=8437253

Here is some video of the trip from Steve:

Short and sweet. Stevetimetrvler and I did the Monkey Face on Weds. and Thurs. We made it a dry run for our Yosemite trip. Which is on hold until after I move. We started at 2:20 p.m Steve got the first pitch done in 2.5 hours. The wind was howling 25 to 40 miles an hour. Steve's aiders were blowing over his head. We hauled all our crap up to bivy in the cave. I haul bag full of junk. I led the second pitch 23 bolts in 1 hour. Did my first real haul. Steve led into the cave. Good thing we had the cheater stick clip. I jugged into the cave hoping not to saw the rope through. Jugged real smooth. We kinda slept in the cave. It is awesome. Like a condo with rats. I led out of the cave in the morning. 5 bolts. Stick clipped the last one and ran out the free climbing 30 ft in army boots. 1 piece for a directional then got to the anchor. We had a blast. Steve loved riding the pig on the Black Hawk Helicopter 180 ft. free hanging rap next to the mouth of the Monkey. Sweet trip. We definitely got what it takes to do The Leaning Tower. Steve will post pics and I will be posting video and a complete TR on my blog at: http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing Plaidman

Four PAGES!!!! What THE HELL!!!! You all have way too much time on your hands. Go climb something. Thanks for all the brain power though! LOL!!

Did someone buy them or did you stop the bidding?

I was there on Wisdom Tooth jugging practice. Some guys told me about it. The news crews were up there. I think I saved this news reporter from certain death as he was looking over the edge wearing dress shoes with no traction. The police were below. Couldn't see much though. Plaidman

WOW! If I just had that in my head while climbing I would be a bad ass

This thread has definitely had more life in it than the author intended. Thanks All Plaidman

Unlikely, what with the predictions for very high domestic travel and NPS stats this summer... Joe what the hell were you doing up at 3:30 am?

Delay again. Steve has business here to do. We are now planning on doing a dry run up to Index next week and hit The Valley after the rush this week. This is the best weather The Valley has seen in a month. So my thinking is it will be zooed. We will head down during my next 2 week window after I see my kids the weekend after next. The Valley may have settled down by then. Index will be fun. We are taking a portaledge and will make it a two day deal on Town Crier or Green Dragon. Plaidman

Got out today and dropped a rope on Birds of Paradise at Rocky Butte. Rapped and jugged 3x Froggy style. First time doing this type of jug. So good on overhanging routes. 1st lap 30 mins. Had a few adjustments to make.. 2nd lap 20 mins. 3rd lap 17 mins. I'll keep working it. Plaidman

Don't get me wrong. I am a believer of the guide is completely responsible for the welfare of the client. That is why I do not think that there should be high altitude guiding. There you go. I think we are on the same page.

Client dies = guide fails

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1185163/To-the-Trundlers-Who-Almost-Killed-me I thought it was some good stuff to think about when cleaning routes for development. Plaidman

Let's hope not. If it was the guide failed.

Another reason for me not to go up there: Dangers at Altitude * Retinal haemorrhages – bleeding from the cells at the back of the eye – are a relatively common complaint of mountain climbers. High altitude causes the blood to thicken, increasing blood pressure, which can lead to the seepage of blood from cells into surrounding tissues. * Some researchers have found that more than a quarter of climbers on an Everest expedition are affected by retinal haemorrhages. Normally, they are minor, with no noticeable effect on vision, and resolve themselves within weeks of a return to low altitudes. But in Peter Kinloch's case it appears the effects were acute and extreme, causing total loss of vision, which led to deadly consequences.