hefeweizen

Yeah, the NSFW tells me which ones are going to actually be interesting.

US Outdoor carries tons of the best brands of rock climbing gear (not just ski and mt. climbing) and will match prices on comparable items. As far as return policies: REI has the best one because they are a huge company and they can absorb losses better than the "one shop" businesses. We could have the whole debate about supporting the little guy, fuck the Walmarts, vs. free market economy, etc... but I'm tired. As far as I'm concerned, when it comes to rock climbing gear, once you walk out the door it's yours. I don't want to buy a rope that sat in the trunk of someones car next to the old battery for a week.

I grew up in the PNW, moved to CO for two years, and came back last season scared to death of everything. It took a couple of months to remember that around here it is possible to get on something steeper than 20 degrees in winter conditions. One of the main reasons I left CO was the constant fear of death in the BC. I've read some of your posts on TAY and you seem to be pretty capable of field forecasting. I was out around Stevens Pass on Sunday digging holes. I found a pretty substantial (~10cm) rain crust that the new snow had fallen on. Below that, it alternated between crusts and decomposing grains in various stages of sintering. None of the layers were presenting any obvious problems, most of my tests failed at the ground level on 5-10cm of depth hoar at high ends of the scales. The snowpack varied from 10-25 inches. Of course, that was at Stevens Pass. Other areas certainly got more snow.

I can barely find the reply button. I am merely a gnat on the ass of the master sprayers on this site.

Constantly bitching about spray = constantly bitching about TR's. Contribute or STFU. Oh yeah and...

All beacons are now 457khz. If you're new to snow safety gear and how to use it, get a DTS Tracker. They are the most fool-proof. Other beacons certainly have more features (i.e. triage capabilities, flagging multiple beacon signals, LCD screens showing relative locations) but you need to get a solid technique before any of that other crap makes a difference. Spend your time at first getting good at single burials before you mess with all the other crap. Get any metal collapsible shovel. The plastic ones suck for digging in hard snow. If you are going to dig pits a lot, or want to get your buddy out faster, get the biggest shovel you can find. I have a tea-spoon for spring/fall and a backhoe for winter conditions. Most avalanche burials are within the top 4.5 feet of debris. So most probes will work fine. I got a longer one (320cm) because I like to be able to see how deep the snowpack is. And because the longer ones are more burly and don't deflect as easy in hard debris. Play with a couple in the store and see which one's are most intuitive for you to use. Same goes for beacons. I think the Trackers are easiest, but something else may make more sense to you. If it's one or the other, pay for a class before you get all the stuff and run out there.

Link

That all makes sense, but it's the same with free climbing. Adding a bolt to an established trad route would be hot no matter which ascent you made. And I bet some knucklehead keeps track of everest ascents.

your getting warmer. they say it was the seventh assent when i did it in 98'. I didn't know they kept track up to "seventh."

That's exactly why the magazines perpetuate it. Verm's got it right. Quit grades. It's harder than smoking.

This time of year, Jager and some Baileys on ice. Try it, it's good. Quintessential gin is tasty as well. Or Milwaukee's Best Ice the day before payday.

Your lack of faith is scaring the snow away. Don't worry, it always looks like this right now. It looked worse last November, and I was choking on it Txgiving weekend.

Sounds like a bit of a nightmare. Hope you treated yourselves to some kind of reward. Any reason you didn't descend the Sunshine? Is it too broken by Horseshoe Rock?

Don't ever go to Smith 11. You give unsolicited beta about every route mentioned in casual conversation.

That was also my first aid climb. I got the overhanging bolt pitch, and from what I remember there were a lot of OLD star head nails and mystery metal hangers. I still have one of them that fell out in my hand. Nice to see it's been rebolted. We had a stick clip, which helped immensely. But we also did it late in the year (December I think) and got to the cave after dark. We did the Bohn St. escape as well. As I was reading your TR I was wondering if you would go that way! The Backbone looks sick from that route!

duh Maybe, when I was there it sucked. The best snow is the snow having the most fun.

Goddamm it rob!

And this is how you reward it?

Yeah, I think of myself as master of the universe, irrestible to the opposite sex, and brilliant beyond comprehension. However that doesn't seem to count much to the outside world.

What a f-ing whiner! Take some responsibilty for yourself kid! Maybe you should've done just a little bit of math before deciding on your degree vs. loan amount decision. My parents laughed me out of the room when I wanted to go to University of Colorado, know where I ended up? Central Oregon Community College. 2 years of meeting great people, climbing at Smith, and getting all the bullsh*t out of the way (pre-req's) before plunking down real debt for student loans. Anyway, hindsight 20-20 etc, now he can look into his options as far as what kind of employment he is willing to accept that wont compromise his precious integrity. BTW: student debt doesn't limit what you become, you do.

Sultan. I'm telling you, it's the next Boulder. All you have to do is see Stickshift Annie at the Pasttimes Bar and Grill and you'll know what I mean.

:D That's pretty much what I had for lyrics.

Just curious. Not interested in specifics or long descriptions, I just want to know what most of you do to pay the bills. me- estimator for a custom home builder, recovering framer/patroller

I'm approaching the west coast 1/2 rack... gotta go.

It depends on why they're sober. We've lost some real troupers to alcoholism. Those ones gave it the old college try. However, the ones that have always been sober and never took the plunge, they are certainly scared of the unknown and should be sent to an island.