hefeweizen

Bump for imminent occurance... Thursday, November 10th at LMS in Leavenworth.

Drew wrote a great TR on the Hans Saari Memorial Fund website, he also included some excellent photos. The Hans Saari Memorial Fund is an outstanding organization that supports objectives ranging from obscure ski mountaineering to all levels of educational programs. Our expedition was awarded a grant that was instrumental in pulling it all off.

This is showing tonight (10/11) at the Mountaineers Club in Seattle. PowderWhores Tour

This past April/May, myself and 4 other Stevens Pass patrollers spent 5 weeks in northern India. We were able to complete a 20 day ski traverse through the central La Haul range, and various other singular objectives. We will be collectively presenting a slideshow at Leavenworth Mountain Sports on the evening of November 10th. Typically these types of slideshows at LMS do not have advance (or any) ticket sales, are free, and everyone drinks beer. Please stop by if you're around. A teaser:

We walked by you guys the night before on our way out. Nice work. The Bandit is a favorite for ski touring as well!

Yep, alpine rock season is just about over. Twill be nice to see a dusting next week...

goodonya. Thanks for the conditions update.

Not sure which route you're after, I'd personally want the real thing (actual topo vs. a photo)for CBR. The newest Leavenworth Rock book describes the main free routes and is worth having anyway if you're going to climb in the Enchantments much.

So if this wasn't the ambitious plan...

here's what it looked like 3 weeks ago... We crossed two somewhat suspect snowbridges over shrunds that are probably gone by now. The route itself was in excellent shape. I would suggest a couple of pickets in addition to ice screws.

If anyone wants larger photos, PM me an email address and I'll send you some. I got bored waiting for them to upload. Let me know if you're specifically interested in AB or regional photos.

Pu- The route is also described in the new Leavenworth Rock book. Nice avatar BTW, there's PBR all over this TR!

Trip: Aasgard Pass - Acid Baby Date: 7/10/2011 Trip Report: Acid Baby, on the flanks of Enchantment Peak near Aasgard Pass, is a super cool route. My girlfriend Sam and I climbed it on Sunday. There are plenty of TR's and other information sources out there, so I wont go into detail. The route is all dry, the exit is an easy up-and-over return to Assgaurd Pass, and I would echo the sentiments of high recommendation. Route as it looked yesterday: Sam leading the first pitch: My baby's chalkbag: Last pitch: I also wanted to give some photo beta on some other stuff in the area- Mt. Stuart: Dragontail: Also Dragontail: Gear Notes: Doubles to #3, 3.5, 4. Less if you're a badass. Approach Notes: Aasgard still has a bit of snow, somewhat avoidable but it was nice to just have crampons and ice ax for ease of travel. Exit off the top could be done without sharp implements.

I think you can use that term in skiing, but it generally refers to skiing a route that you didn't ascend first.

I'm living in Skagway this summer, and I've been bummed about the lack of decent climbing anywhere around here. But here is what I've found so far: There is one crag called Black Lakes about 4 miles up the Klondike Hwy from Skagway, probably 10 routes, from 5.7-5.11 trad and sport, single pitch. It's right off the highway at a pullout between two lakes. There is a crag called the AMG crag further up the highway at another pullout, just past mile marker 6. It gets it's name because that's where Alaska Mountain Guides takes their clients for the "extreme rock climbing and rappeling adventure" off the cruise ships. There is one wall with 5.easy-5.8ish routes that are all top ropeable, but you are on property leased by AMG and they don't allow non-paying people to climb there due to liability. There is a wall above the first one called the upper wall (duh) that has a bolted 5.10 and some cracks. Supposedly they are more lenient about that spot. But if you go there when no one is there, they'll never know the difference anyway. Most of the good climbing in the area is near Whitehorse, Yukon Territory, about 2 1/2 hours from Haines Junction. There is a spot called the Ibex Valley boulders, which hold impeccable golden granite bolders, although most of them are short. And has good camping (bring water). There is another spot called Golden Canyon that has pretty good trad climbing. It's not very developed but the quality is good. There is also a spot just outside of town called the Rock Gardens, which has some shorter (30-40') routes that are topropeable and leadable. All of the spots around Whitehorse are granite. Black Lakes and AMG are a kind of schist/granite mixture, I think. Be prepared for MAD mosquitos at all of these spots, and always expect rain. None of these areas are destinations in their own right, but make fun days if you're already in the area. You can find directions to all the spots around Whitehorse by googling "rock climbing in the Yukon" and reading the various links to rockclimbing.com. Good luck, I'm moving back to Washington next summer!

Thanks everyone for your input. Don't worry G, I've been lots of places where they try and kick you out for overstaying your welcome.

Not sure if this is where to post this question, but my wife and I are hoping to be in Joshua Tree for about 6 weeks this fall. We want to bring our dog (lets not discuss the ins and outs of dogs at crags here, there are other threads for that topic) and I'm wondering if anyone who has been there can tell me what the dog scene is like. The NPS website does not sound that welcoming to canines, but you never know until you go what the truth of the matter is. So, any advice on how to bring your dog down there? TIA

First turns near top: Judging by that photo, the upper portion of the route doesn't look very skiable. Have you done a complete descent? Seems like maybe this year it just hasn't come into condition yet?

Dude, are you kidding? I'll take blower pow all the way into June if it wants to keep going. The corn will also be killer in August/September. Although this weekend you might get your wish. FL's up to 9k and 11k down south.

You might also look into the classes taught by Paul Baugher (Crystal Mountain Patrol Director) through his company NW Avalanche Institute linky They are at Crystal and he has as much longevity in this area as anyone. Also, if time and money are really no concern, consider taking a course from Silverton Avalanche School in Silverton, CO (maybe do your Level 1 there) and then take your Level 2 somewhere in the cascades for a completely different perspective and snow science experience.

It looks like I may be going to Haines/Skagway in mid-April. Any specific tours or locations I should look into? I will have a car but other than that I am human powered (ie no sno-mo or heli).

Based on my observations, the sheer quantity of people in REI purchasing armloads of new shit every time I've gone to return something far outweighs me and the dirtbag next to me returning our "faulty equipment." My point is, they are making so much money hand over fist that I doubt they are considering doing anything to their return policy. Besides, they resell most of the stuff that comes in at the garage sale (not climbing gear, I hope).

Temperature: N/A Restrictions Eastbound: Pass Closed Restrictions Westbound: Pass Closed Conditions & Weather: Snoqualmie Pass remains closed from milepost 34 near North Bend to milepost 106 near Ellensburg. Extreme winter conditions continue to hit the Cascades and Snoqualmie Pass and avalanche risk is at historical levels. Avalanche control work continues. By 8 p.m. this evening, avalanche experts will be able to evaluate the success of the day’s avalanche control efforts. WSDOT will be able to provide a better assessment of a possible re-opening time. Updated information provided as available // Snowing with areas of poor visibility Updated: 10:12 AM, Feb 1, 2008 This is the most current info available and is promptly updated when conditions change.

Somewhere around 50-55 that aint gettin some this year!

It's set up behind the yurt on a run called I-5, off of the Big Chief chair. Come to the patrol room to check out the box that activates the beacons. Currently there are only two, but more to come soon.