Robert Howell

Looks like things are dropping way down up north, at least compared to what I am used to. Lillooet forecast

temperatures are supposed to drop way down this weekend and through next week.

How long was the drive from Vancouver?

Beautifully done! Looks like there was some great puckering to be had.

Not to derail the thread... but do you have any more pictures of robson?

I think Salem, OR is the backdrop.

Wow, you have no idea how much this helps. Thanks a lot. EDIT: Actually you probably do...

Yeah except for the fact that professional road bikers have the lower extremity bone density of 80 year old women. In terms of training for climbing, I believe running is superior for a few reasons: 1) The high loading in running makes it the best bone-building exercise possible. So especially if you are female, running now can help prevent osteoporosis. Also, the high eccentric impulses into the lower extremity causes more deep tissue breakdown, thus over time making the muscles and connective tissues denser and much stronger (if you don't overtrain). 2) There is a greater "transfer of training" effect. Running (especially on uneven and steep terrain) makes for a very similar set of movement patterns as in hiking. Because of this you are training the same balance patterns and exact muscles as in climbing (well, speaking of the hiking part that is). I also find it interesting that the literature shows that barefoot runners have the lowest incidence of lower extremity injury..... I think it is a combination of the two. I simply cannot do my 2-3 hour intervals or hill routines more than twice a week. My legs get absolutely destroyed. Biking kicks my ass and my legs feel great the next day. So, for those who cannot give up running altogether just run a little bit less and start cycling.

Looks like waiting until it cools down early next week is the only option.

I think that warm temps tomorrow AND Friday would make Saturday reasonable, but nothing is ever for certain. The warm temps and high freezing level would be something to take into account. I think an early start and something in the shade during the climb (i.e. Reid) would be worth checking out but not a guarantee. I do wonder about the descent down West Crater in the sun...

Damn. I can't wait to get up there. Thanks for the great pictures.

Yep, I am a 43.5 in Trango's and Nepal's and a 44.5 in the Spantik.

I am in Eugene now but may be transplanting to Vancouver, B.C. this fall. How long is the ice season in and who is willing to go on some trips with me? I may be taking time off to climb full time...

Thanks for the info. I am going to be up there this weekend but I am not sure whether our group will be doing the gates or the old chute. Hopefully the gates, but I will let you guys know how it pans out either way. Luckily it looks like the weather may hold off.

We did the Reid Headwall on Monday and descended the gates to see how it was shaping up this year. It was quite surprising to see how steep it was this year. The ice was hard and made for great purchase though and would have probably been easier with a second tool. The traverse from the hogsback is damn steep too. On our way out we found some boot tracks that stopped halfway between the hogsback and the gates. It appeared that the party probably decided to turn back (and traverse from lower down) when the snow got harder and the exposure got to them. The truly bizarre thing about the climb was watching three climbers head towards Devil's Kitchen headwall at about noon! The way the mountain was coming down on us on the Reid in the shade was enough to get us moving faster. I can't imagine climbing the DK Headwall in that heat.

There are some cool crags not too far from Eugene though... and you have Mt. Washington (aka pile of rubble) to take whippers on.

This is the best advice. Or Western Wa. in Bellingham?

University of Oregon.

Mikester, I have a second pair available for you to try on, depending on your shoe size, if you make your way to Eugene.

I just picked up a pair in 43.5. I will be trying them out within the next few weeks on Hood or Jeff... whenever I get the opportunity really.

Bob is legitimate. I understand the worry, however, as the Int4rweb is a dangerous place.

http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/395 I do agree, however, that the Nepal is the shit.

BuilderBob has the best advice. A guiding service is going to be a safer bet then a climbing club as they could potentially cater to your circumstances better. Give Timberline Mountain Guides a call. I have a buddy who works for them who has loads of experience and they definitely have a high standard of what it takes to guide for them. At the very least they could help you gain insight into this undertaking.

That is one tough cookie. Any reason why you chose that route over some other classics (I realize Yokum is also a classic)?

Clearance is an important factor. High clearance makes the tool more versatile in the long run, as it easier to place over mushrooms or overhangs. Pick width is important as a thinner pick will penetrate easier and displace less ice-meaning the pick will slice or cut into the ice versus shattering it. If you have to keep setting, then resetting your pick you will fatigue very quickly. While taking a whipper on an ice lead makes you super hard and earns you a nickname at your local crag, it is not the best way to further your ability. That being said... Head weight is absolutely a factor. The tools I mentioned, however, come with appropriately weighted picks for proportionality and 'general' ease of penetration. Generally speaking though, you may want to try out your buddies tools before you buy them to decide what overall package you are looking for. I.E. Leash vs. Umbilical system. Heavier tool vs lighter tool. Good luck.