cheamclimber

Trip: Blanshard Needle Attempt - Standard Route Date: 3/8/2008 Trip Report: I met up with some BCMC'ers in Golden Ears Park for an attempt on Blanshard Needle today (March 8, 2008) and took the Evans Creek/Fly gulley approach. While we walked through the basin on the way to Fly's Gulley avalanches contantly roared off of Edge Peak, another slide came off the North side of Blanshard. The snow was wet and isothermal and we postholed to our knees and deeper in places. In these conditions Fly Gulley was basically a never ending gulley from hell and was a total burlfest to get to the top of, by the time we were out of the gulley and hit the notch at the start of the climb we were really short on time and I got as far as the end of the crux pitch before we decided to bail, it was probably a good idea as we would have likely been locked in the park had we continued. Even though we didn't make the summit I still had a good time leading the first pitch and getting a feel for mixed climbing (its surprisingly difficult...mostly because the holds aren't really tangible, all you can feel is the handle of your ice tool!) Some Pics: At the col at the top of the gulley. The peak starts to appear as we approach the notch. Blanshard Needle Looking up to Edge Peak on the hike out. Approach Notes: Flys gulley is not in great shape

he means Feb 8th 2009.. duh

I did the North Face of Yak and it was definitely alpine.... it went at A1 5.12d 17 pitches.... all free it would be about 5.13c.... great day out... did I mention I did it solo and flew off the summit with my jetpack

it has a NW Butress? Do you mean the SE face from Airplane creek, its an easy road, steep but not terrible trail, beutiful area, easy climb, make sure you tick Baby Munday if you go, if you dont like the exposure a 40ft rope will get you up and down just fine...

Mike, if you look at the pic of me rapping off the overhang you can see the crux is getting to the ledge at my feet. You have to pinch the undercling (really strenous) then grab bad holds to get to the ledge

that happened to me too.. its better now.

My friend tore his ACl when he hit a tree skiing behing a car and climbed in the gym with one foot for a few months until it recovered.. he got really good with one foot.. I think he was still sending 12's

I luike my BD predator.. its very comfortable even with 60-70 ib loads. It also compresses nicely for summit pushes and technical climbing

are thos La sportiva Testarossas in the first pic?

well.. the north butress of stewart might get its FWA this weekend

when the North Butress of stewart peak was climbed was it done in winter or summer? If it was done in summer then never was reapeated it is still waiting for an FWA.

thats really freaky man...

Trip: Elbow Lake - Date: 2/17/2008 Trip Report: For the first rock climbing trip of 2008 me and my Dad went to Elbow Lake up the chehalis main FSR. We left after church and arrived at 2:00, we overestimated our abilities to climb after taking the last couple months off and tried a fun looking route up a face and over a couple roofs. It started off pretty easily, had a couple of thin moves pulling over and overhang ( 5.10 a/b) and some 5.10c moves to the bottom of a small roof. The roof had good holds but was a bit strenous (and fun) but after that the next 20ft to the top became very thin and overhung so I eventually backed off. My Dad climbed to the same piont on TR with a couple rests and a fall or two but he did great! I then rapped into the taop of my 5.12 project and I set up a pre-made anchor at the top for the next time I lead it, after rapping down my project it was time to go home but overall it was a lot of fun and a good start to 2008. approach still snow covered The route from the base

does anybody know of any climbable ice at Hemlock Valley Resort. I can a get a ride there tommorow but I have no money for a lift ticket

Does anybody know what is the easiest way to approach the North couloir and North Edge routes on Lindeman? they look fun and rarely travelled...

I like the Mantas as an all around boot as well, they're not made for really hard stuff but Ive done WI4 ice and climbed a 5.10 in them... and theyre warm too. I might consider a pair of these for all around mountaineering.

I want to see the NW face up close.. not even climb it neccesarily just go to the base..

go climb the N face of Devils Thumb... thats is the most insane, hugest, steepest face I have ever seen! now thats a prize

0jgrCKhxE1s&feature=related listen to the guitar solo.. freakin amazing!

Heres some closer pics of the gulley Lower section upper section

ohhhh I know what I'm doing this may!

I dont think the NE couloir of Lady has

Has anybody seen a TR for a later spring traverse from CBP to ABP, do you think there would be good snow on NW CBP and NE ABP for cramponing?

Ill call them ... 'the extreme little mountain death route #1 and #2'

No, those are Cyborgs