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WageSlave

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Everything posted by WageSlave

  1. Sweet. Count me in on this potentially entertaining chaos. Good move on keeping the climbers away from the beer before giving them ice tools; don't want too many drunks dueling while swinging from ropes.
  2. that's my point - it's beautiful out but i'm back at school... Sucker. I got 3 weeks before that load of crap drops on my head... Hey geoff, I'd also be game to go out some point this week. Give me a ring at (360) 823-7344
  3. I'd be game to get out as I just moved down here. Today or Thursday sound good by me. Give me a ring at (360) 823-7344.
  4. Quit your whining! It's beautiful out.
  5. Alrighty kids. I've just migrated south from Seattle and know somewhere around zero people to go climbing with in Portland. By climbing, I mean, I like ice and cold and want to delicately swing tools into some rime-covered choss on Hood this winter. I also like big long hand-to-fist cracks and long walks on the beach. I know my way around the out-of-doors and know how to not get myself killed. Can lead trad to 5.9 and follow in the 10s. I like snow and ice more than rock and like the mountains way more than the crags. Downsides: I'm a carless college student and fairly young. I haven't scared myself shitless in the mountains yet so I haven't tempered my ambition with wisdom. So give me a call or PM or what have you. (360) 823-7344 colin.bohannan@gmail.com
  6. I'm game too. I've been up the DC before and have my act together. I'm in Ballard (aka Seattle). Gimme a ring at (360) 823-7344. -Colin
  7. Hans, I was in the group of two (one guy, one girl) in bright orange puffy jackets. I ran into two IMG parties and a handful of other climbers coming down. They all complained of high winds, but we decided to keep climbing until we got sketched out. Ended up standing on top. The wind wasn't that bad, but there were still gusts around 30 mph and a lot of spindrift. No real fear of getting blown off, just a lot of misery. The cramponing was perfect. The snow was in amazing condition going up and a big sloppy coming down, especially on the Cleaver proper. We were on top at 9:10 am and headed down quick like. Sorry to hear you didn't get up on top of there.
  8. I'd love to get out of town on Sunday to go climbing anywhere around Seattle. I'd prefer to follow someone up some stiffer trad routes as I'm sans trad rack and just learning to lead trad. PM me or comment or give me a ring at (360) 823-7344. Colin
  9. WageSlave

    Rope Washing

    What methods or equipment do you folks use to srubadubdub a dirty rope? I've heard put it in a bath with mild soap and hand wash it. What does the collective hive mind of CC.com use for rope washing?
  10. WageSlave

    sport climbing

    Assuming you actually are new to the game, some places actually have bolts placed at the belay spots for the belayer to anchor into. I'm thinking of a bunch of the climbs on Sunshine Wall at Vantage as one example. You really shouldn't worry unless its a big fall and proportionally small belayer. Slinging a rock behind you and clipping into it should usually be more than enough.
  11. Damn. I guess if I stole a -35 degree bag I'd go to Alaska too.
  12. Sat. had a great bootpack up the entire route. The snow got sloppy as soon as the sun hit it, but it was nice for most of the morning. Left at 4 am back at car around noon. The walk down was a bake-your-brains-out affair though.
  13. Yeah they might be, but its harder to protect buildering and it gets extra fun when you're up there enough. Any recommended buildings in town?
  14. I just moved back up to Seattle and am looking for someone to go do some cragging for the weekend coming up. Anyone game for exploring some or at least going up to Exit 38? Send me a PM because if I don't find someone to go with I'll be forced to keep climbing buildings that I find in town here and thats bound to get me in trouble eventually.
  15. Especially if you call in a chopper to carry you out afterwards.
  16. I wouldn't trust one to hold very much. Body weight maybe or maybe a short fall. You can hammer them into pretty much anything though. Word on the street is that they're one of the few things that works in super iced up cracks. I'd take a couple and fuck around at ground level to see what holds and what doesn't.
  17. I have a pair of the Charmoz too and love them. The only time I've gotten cold in them was going up Mt Hood two weeks ago. Then again they're only 3 season boots. You can climb vertical ice pretty decently in them, and alpine ice is a breeze. I'd recommend them for pretty much any alpine climbing that isn't high altitude or in winter.
  18. So, jlag, those were your skin tracks we saw up there. 4 of us went up two days ago. Got up over the berg on the Hogsback but the gully had a bunch of powder (foot-plus) on top of weak ice and faceted snow. Didn't like it, so we bailed back down. Once the snow consolidates some, I'd say give it shot. Or maybe if you have bigger balls. It was a long snow slog up to there though. If the winds haven't blow our tracks away, there should be a good path up over the hogsback.
  19. I'm heading down to J-Tree from Eugene, OR on Monday the 22nd. If anyone in the area wants a ride down, I'm game. If anyone from this boards is gonna be down there and wants a partner get in touch. I'm heading down there to learn to lead trad properly. Gots me a rack, a rope, some climbing skillz, and more than half a brain. Mmm...warm weather... I know you Northwesterners want to get out of the rain already...
  20. There is always the Elwa Wall if you want some slightly overhanging bolted sport routes. Some 8 or so routes there.
  21. I've got this week off, if you're still game. Hit me up.
  22. With short axes you tend to bend over a lot and it compresses your diaphragm making it harder to get air into you. Bad news. I use a 75 cm and its short on me. Size 'em out, borrow one from a friend, or rent a few different sizes and see what you like.
  23. If you're in Seattle, I'd hit up Second Ascents and Feathered Friends. The folks that work there are rad and know a lot about boots. They helped me get set up for my last pair of them. If you want plastics, you can usually get REI ex-rentals for $50 bucks. Its a good deal for an average boot.
  24. Wow. Thats gorgeous.
  25. Man, I hear you on that. At least Arc'Terxy jackets fit my long arms without making me look like an inflated whale.
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