-
Posts
8375 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by pink
-
i'm the most humble person on this site
-
halo would be a lot more fun, or maybe leisure suit larry.
-
see me walking, i'm loaded.
-
minx is climbing with me this weekend, silly girl bought me dinner last night. pay's to be a dickhead. ya know archie was with her, this is minx and arch putting on a little show.
-
little wing? to the left of the corner. one of my favs.
-
i like bangin em while i spray, i tell the ho's what to type while i dig in.
-
-
best of cc.com [TR] Ptarmigan Speed Traverse - 8/14/2008
pink replied to off_the_hook's topic in North Cascades
i would imagine for a very small number of celerious mutants -
best of cc.com [TR] Ptarmigan Speed Traverse - 8/14/2008
pink replied to off_the_hook's topic in North Cascades
is this a sought after record? -
[TR] Der Beacon-wand - - Shotguns n' Shenanigans 8/8/2008
pink replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
-
[TR] Der Beacon-wand - - Shotguns n' Shenanigans 8/8/2008
pink replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
M9v2D_S2F2c -
[TR] Der Beacon-wand - - Shotguns n' Shenanigans 8/8/2008
pink replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
-
maybe someday i'll read one of your tr's john
-
someone who doesn't like to jam, dods lie back ?
-
who needs abs when you you got the stamp good night john boi!!!!!!!!!!
-
btw, you should spray more , because more or less that's what your doin anyway
-
'68, holy shit dude. you frickin old. is you name charles manson. that would be good press for beacon
-
[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner 7/30/2008
pink replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
fractured ribs and to much work, i quit climbing -
[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner 7/30/2008
pink replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
no way, fourth pitch is at least 5.11 -
[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner 7/30/2008
pink replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
i agree with dave -
[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner 7/30/2008
pink replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Steve, you can say that again - pretty much a Beacon classic no matter how you look at it. As far as the pro on p2 goes, there's pro on the right, center, and left, but I've personally never thought any of it is was so great as to be worth bothering with. I'd do an #10 HB alloy nut on the left if I was going to use any, though; I don't like the idea of a cam in any of it. And I think the real key to protection through those two moves up to the next piece of pro in the slot is less a matter of gear and more about distributing your weight across the four points of your body you have on the rock. It's essential to be delicate, fluid, and well-distributed across whatever holds you might use through there. You absolutely have to be able to withstand blowing any single point of rock throughout any sequence you choose. The plane in which you impart pressure to any individual flake or edge is also incredibly important - you want to minimize any outward (away from the rock face) pressure on any of them - keep the pressure you apply in-plane with that of the overall flake system. They are easy moves and I think Dave's comment about it all being largely psychological is pretty spot on. Pink, always good to hear the history. But there is still a bolt stud up and left of the p1 anchor. I've done the direct left and center variations off of the anchor on TR and they are interesting, though the lefthand one has some of the same delicate flake issues as the way it is normally done these days. well that's what smoking to much dope will get you, i guess the hanger was removed and the butthole became the norm because JO didn't want YW to be harder than 5.9. -
google was my favorite president
-
McccccccccccccccCAIN, I DON'T EAT DARK MEAT
-
[TR] Beacon Rock - Young Warriors, Crusin to SE corner 7/30/2008
pink replied to kevbone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
ya know steve i put up the original second pitch of YW (FFA not FA). it goes straight up from the belay and slants LEFT but the bolt stud was removed and MR. FOREARMS himself did the second variation which is a little easier and a little chossier. i was realy HIGH that day so quite possibly it never happened and i might have gone left if i had a purple camelot on my rack but i was poor so went the harder way which didn't need as much gear. BOTH WAYS ARE COOL
