tradclimbguy

Maybe you could send the 30 dollar cam deal our way? I wouldn't mind to add some to my aid rack.

Bolted on holds, now theres one for ya. I can think of a couple blank rock faces that would benefit from some bolt on holds. hahaha, just kidding. I can however think of a number of crags with bolt on holds. Index used to have bolt on holds at the little crag just right of the zipper and Fossil Rock still has some plastic holds bolted to the rock, at least the last time I was there a couple years ago. Smith had some too and I think the newer sport area over by Hwy2 had some.

Just buy one of these regardless and double check that your heater has an ODS (Oxygen Depletion Shutoff) system on it. http://www.campingworld.com/browse/products/index.cfm/Outdoor-and-RV-Accessories/Maintaining-Your-RV/Heaters--Furnaces/Catalytic-Heaters/Safe-T-AlertTM-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector-with-Memory-Scan/prodID=1041:src=CROS

He was obviously joking, you have to expect it when you make so many beta request posts though. My buddy and I just did TC and GD a few weeks ago just before the snow. We went up again a week ago to grind em out a bit faster and there was about a foot of snow on the ground and a bit of Ice fall, so watch out. It was a bit rainy but those two usually don't get too bad. If you want more beta you are welcome to PM me on it. Otherwise there ARE large boulders at the base of the 5.11 crack that you can sling like lambone mentioned. We brought a double rack from purple TCU through BD#3, two leepers a sky hook, one set of nuts along with some offsets and some RP's. You can also link GD to TC on the second pitch for a very fun pitch with a 60M. Off the belay move up the RFC and into the hand crack then exit on some free moves and move over under the big roof which is pitch 3 of GD. Lots of fun. Watch out for ice this time of year. Enjoy.

Don't forget the purple and black, hahaha.

Sounds like we might have a good project then. Get a bunch of us together, pool a bunch of big gear and all get some clean ground up sends of GMD. That would be some good gear pics

Definitely not common practice in the Valley, but for the amount of traffic GOMD sees (very little) and the number of 5's 6's and big bro's that people usually pack I don't see the bolts being to out of the ordinary, especially the time period when it was bolted with lack of nice big BD's. In fact I'd consider the climbing more spicy with those crappy bolts, at least with a #6 I could walk it most of the way with me. Whatever tall asshole bolted the first bolt obviously could reach it from the ledge I've had that grudge in there for many many years. All my buddies just reach up and clip it, instead I pull twice as many moves before I can reach the dang thing. We worked on cleaning up the 10+ on the far left this past season, still a long way to go, but there's a good OW for you if you don't want something bolted, just bring a brush though. Maybe another couple trips and that one will be clean enough to lead for another year before the forest reclaims it. Can't remember the name but it's left of the 5.8 which is left of GOMD.

Hahaha, you know its bad when everyone knows which problem you are talking about just by listing the tape color. I wouldn't know anything about that though. Although the red one next to the black one is pretty good hahaha

I'll put a vote in for City of Rocks, albeit a bit over touristy on the weekends. For something less trodden I give another vote to Wild Iris. Yes, it's in the land of bolts but camping above 9000 ft out of your car with views of the wind river is cool when your on a road trip.

So Angora Grotto is the right crack we speak of... I did it back before it was bolted. Oops to whomever bolted it, I guess I should have waited for the bolts, my bad. I'd be willing to say the bolts are there purely b/c the country doesn't see much traffic. Like I said most people are stuck on Godzilla.

There are a couple variations above the tunnel, but Tunnel Vision right above the tunnel is 11a/b depending on the guide. Angora Grotta is 10+/11- RFC crack above that and to the right? I haven't been on it in a very long time... It would be weird if that were the case. Might be time to check it out again. Another bolted crack is "Black Cat Bone" on the Blues Cliff. Used to be this nice 11+ finger crack about yellow TCU size and when they bolted an extension on a roof crack above they bolted the 11+ finger crack as well. Never could figure that one out, and its not new at all, been bolted for years and years but nobody visits the Blues cliff much. Most people are stuck on Godzilla

Just make sure to use the "wood" holds by Metolius. Keep it local and natural, ya know!

I agree with low impact Raindawg, its a good thing to practice in life and not just climbing but... How much impact do bolts really leave when you think about them on a large scale. Think about this if you will... Years from now (maybe hundreds of years) we get some new magical climbing protection which makes bolts irrelevant. What can we do??? Remove the bolts and fill the holes and voila, most of the impact is gone. Yes, maybe a scar here and there but for the most part the route has retained its original flavor. Now consider pins used by us old guys. Ever do Serenity Crack? That sucker is permanently damaged for good. I just say that while bolts are an eyesore they are lower impact than many other items and I don't really think they are that "permanent" although we surely set them to be so. Just something to contemplate on this rainy monday morning.

We could always go fill the crack I wouldn't worry about one route like that anyway. Places like the Sinks or Tensleep have it beat hands down with bolted cracks. I was in Tensleep this past year and my wife and I were at one of the crags, excellent climbing by the way. I ended up bringing only draws since I was visiting for a few days and had read it was only sport climbing in the canyon. To my suprise there were a bunch of bolted cracks which I got to lead. Kinda wierd clipping bolts while slamming in nice jamps and finger locks. On a funnier note there was this one bolted crack listed as a "project" so I jumped on it b/c of the bolts and ended up sending the thing. It was definately 11+/12- with an overhanging finish with very poor flairing fingers and jams, but not all that difficult. Later talking to some locals working on it they said it was newly bolted and had yet to see a free send. I didn't have the heart to tell them I flashed it the other day especially when one of the guys was saying it was 5.13, hahaha. I wouldn't feel right anyway saying I got the FA on a bolted crack when clipping the bolts myself Either way, it was fun and like I said Smith definately doesn't have to worry about being considered a crack bolted mecca, other places have that claim already. Happy Climbing

Wow. Could somebody please go chop that webbing and add some bolts

Nicely summed up. Too much negative energy on this post over the weekend, geez. I tried to bring something positive to the table with a pretty nice article but alas the ever common "bolt war" began. Just as sport climbing and bouldering may not be your cup of tea, all you arm chair "hardmen" can probably appreciate somebody pushing the envelope with ground up ascents with gear placed on lead on 5.14's!!! Now if somebody told you they first bouldered hard then did hard sport which helped them to do those ungodly 5.14 trad lines in great style would you belittle them b/c of their past? I say just get over it and quit making mountains out of mole hills. Sport climbing and bolts helped advance all climbing to a new and different level, it was obvious progression whether you like it or not. You can say it was good or bad but I would bet if it didn't happen you wouldn't see those same guys cranking down on 5.14's with gear.

He's going to Arizona. It's dry there. I wasn't worried about moisture getting in from the outside. You ever lived in your vehicle for any period of time? Think about all the condensation you get from sleeping in it or especially if you ski out of it and bring wet gear inside. Thats the moisture you'd put in another barrier for, not the rain. The rig looks bad ass and will probably hold up just great, especially with all that quality work gone into it.

I think you already said it best Kevbone "hell, its Smith Rock." Heck, I think it looks more like that crack is getting in the way of a nicely bolted route! Damn crack, gettin all up in our shiz. Hahahaha

Your clearly not standing in the right place if the climber "rockets" into you. And I would agree Heresy is a good example of a good use of a clip. PS: the new guide is calling Heresy 11.c/d I'd definately agree on vomit launch. I did that one with no stick clip and boy was it hairy matching on that slopy ledge before pulling over to the bolt. Probably not one of my smartest moments

Where exactly is climbing today? Seems a rather strange comment to me.... Maybe you should reread the post and then read the link. If you can't put 2 and 2 together well then I can't help you.

Holy crap, have you been holding this one in since the 80's? Keep taking the Exlax, it will help. Easy solution to this one, don't go to the show like you are planning and avoid the "manufactured bolt trails" by just never going to Smith. Personally I don't think climbing would be where it is today without the history and change that happened at a place like Smith. You can bitch and moan about how horrible bolts are but they dun happened. Deal. In the meantime read this article, maybe it will make you feel better to read about hardmen sending crazy hard routes in very elegant style. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP18/end-of-beginning-boulder-segal-abbey-smith

Definately not my cup of tea. I remember getting on "Take a Powder" over a couple visits before pulling through to the first bolt. Up and down, up and down until I worked out the really long reach through a couple crappy holds and no feet. For me it's an extra bit of excitement and if I can't make it to the bolt I have backed off until I could come back later and successfully climb the route.

Wow, that is great lookin. Nice work man. I've redone a couple interiors before and that is a heck of alot of work. I did the same bubble insulation and expando foam. Instead of fiberglass though I did a second layer of the bubble wrap and left an air pocket. I was too worried about condensation and mold in the insulation. Next time it might be good to throw an extra layer of plastic over the entire set of insulation just to make sure it never gets wet. Man, that is just great work. Excellent rig.

Tape + Vitamin I = screw sitting on your ass for 4 months. Just go skiing anyway and let it heal over the next 6 months. If you didn't tear anything keep crankin. No sympathy, sorry.

I love the descriptions of the individual musicians.