rob

no, buttlips is that flared chimney below the roof, and above the 5.8 inside corner.

Trip: Index - Various Date: 9/23/2007 Trip Report: Hit up Index yesterday with Lukic. I was hoping to lead my first Index 9, but I'm not quite ready yet. Looks like I gotta do some more following. Lukic warmed us up on Ultrabrutal, and then I led the first pitch of Roger's Corner (super easy). I was tempted to give the 2nd pitch a go (looks easy from below!) but I pussed out and we bailed and hiked over to the Narrow Arrow. Climbed Narrow Arrow Standard -- P1 is super loose. Second half was moss-infested. Crapy climbing, waste of time. Bailed at the top of the arrow. I was hoping to lead Quarry Crack, but we top-roped it and I found it pretty athletic. Maybe a couple more laps and I'll lead it. Went back and did Aries. I led the fist-crack and open-book for the umpteenth time. Half-way up the open-book, my hands were cramping up (dehydrated?) and I sewed that thing up like a surgeon. Lukic lead butt-lips in good style. Somebody slung a huge block at the top of Butt-lips! We were losing daylight so we bailed from there. What a strange place for a bail anchor -- the roof above the chimney is super fun, and easier than the chimney. Someone missed out on the funnest part of Aries! I'll get that 9 lead soon! It's all in my head.

I don't use a leash. I never remove my device from my HMS biner. My biner is big enough that I can just move the device to the side and clip the rope without actually removing it. I've never really worried about it. Seems a leash would get in the way, but I see lots of people doing it so it must not be too bad.

partner found, thx everyone

bump weather should be nice....

Hey, anybody up for Index on Sunday? 8s and 9s?

Thx, maybe I'll eye that 9 more suspiciously now. stiffer than index?

I've never climbed there, sounds like I need to check it out. Maybe warmup on Pauls and then give the 9 a shot.

I gotta ask: wtf is a clownpuncher? It must be a bad thing?

Vicente Fox is from Enumclaw?

cream pie?

WTF, seahawks? I knew you were dumb, but I didn't think you were an asshole, too

I've got an 8-year old 11mm dinosaur you can use. It's only got a couple of soft spots.

I was thinking of getting one of those, but it sounds like a lot of work.

I can give you the number for a good shrink.

I will be there! now it's a party I'm hoping to lead a lot of 8s, I'll be looking for partners who wanna watch me fall off some stuff. Tvash got to see me fall on my nuts last time I was in worth

yeah. everyone knows live.com is better

rain rain, go away

I've always worried about self-arrest with ice tools. I even posted a ( much sprayed on) question about this once.

Didn't he slip on gravel, and then fell onto a snow patch (where he couldn't arrest)

The Mariners don't even have a good curse to explain their suck.

you should not count on your rigging to overcome poor anchors.

Coincidence? You be the judge.

Bizarro. It should be in the bizarro thread.