montypiton

between Genepires and Dane, you have a fairly complete and accurrate answer to your question, so I would just repeat: if you're all but stopped, or not yet really moving, go ahead and use your front points to help hold. if you're already sliding fast, use your knees - your frontpoints could flip you if they suddenly catch.

I have a low-volume foot, and have had good fit in Lowa and Garmont...

Thanks, Bob. We all need reminders once in a while. Just last weekend I grounded off a toproped sicle that neither I nor my partner felt ready to lead. Unfortunately, we both forgot how much stretch you can get from a LONG slingshot toprope, and now I'm housebound for five more weeks while my ankles heal up. I would have been safer leading, and hang-dogging on screws than I ended up being with that top-rope. A good example of failing to think outside the box...

Fred is doing well - shows up regularly for Chelan County Mountain Rescue Associations functions. Tarver still climbs regularly, rented a house from me for several years. Klewin has mostly given up hard climbing, very busy with his hardwood flooring company these days. the rest of that list I don't know well, although I think I recall meeting Matt Christianson once or twice...

Hells bells, guys, I still climb on some of that stuff!!! -Haireball

I still like Fred Stanley's motto better: "Its never to early to turn back!" I'd like to have THAT on a t-shirt... maybe I should have some made... -Haireball

I've heard a rumor that Red Chili may have a dealer in the Wenatchee area by coming summer...

A great number of Icicle Canyon rock-climbs are done in mixed conditions each winter. Dr. Shipman and I have done several on what Beckey's original guidebook called the "Candlestein Crags", between Rainbow Gully and Careno Crag. Most folks focus on the two obvious lines that I've seen called "Careno Right and Careno Left" which, in deference to Beckey's older name, the Old Farts call "Candlestein Left, and Candlestein Right", but there are numerous others. These are trad lines, and generally rely on one's ability to visually identify a line and climb it, without beta. Doc and I have done a number of mixed lines on Icicle Buttress, as well, and I've done a number of the classics like the Funnel in "mixed" conditions also. It hardly seems worth attempting to catalogue these mixed lines, as whether they are ice, mixed, or rock climbs varies almost day-to-day. But since you asked, I'm attempting to supply a meaningful answer. Does climbing Midway on Castle Rock in a storm that dumped 8" of snow while we climbed the chimney count as mixed? That was the first climb I ever did with Gordon Briody, back in December of 1980...

Wow-good thread that didn't get hijacked! I'm impressed! Bob, thanks for taking the time to write a well thought-out response. I'd be the last to say that what's not safe for some is therefor not safe for all. Ultimately, the greatest safety tool is between our ears, and you apparently know how to use yours. I'll always remember a spanish climber at Devils Tower back in '76 who taught me to always LOOK UP whenever I hear the cry "ROCK" because "you can't dodge what you don't see". Fernando taught me a great deal about safety -- and not all of it intuitive. I'm grateful to guys like you and Fernando. Thanks for accepting the risk of posting your thoughts. -Curt "Haireball" Haire

I've used this tactic since the '80s. I think its fairly common among those of us who use double ropes a lot. Taking only one half-rope, and folding it in half still leaves you the same rappel capacity as a single fat rope. And you usually aren't going to run 60meter pitches on moderate alpine rock. It's a sound idea that has been used for at least a couple of generations.

lessee... "guys-link route" name has potential, in a cfcc sort of way...

I have no appreciable experience of gps, however as far as I know, they can be programmed to select a route by connecting "waypoints". The difficulty I would expect, is that the waypoints don't give the user a mental picture of the route the way a topographic map can. Without a topo, or personal experience of the travel area, it seems a gps could (at least theoretically) lead an inexperienced user into serious trouble. But that could be said of ANY of the navigational aids used by mountaineers. A compass, for instance is of little use in the vicinity of a significant quantity of iron-rich rock. Even holding one in a hand wearing a battery operated watch can render it inaccurrate. The key is in studying, and in knowing the limitations of your tools -- as always.

Got back to that nice little piece just up the road from Bridge Creek twice this week. Thursday, with Dave Allyn, started at the lowest point and climbed SIX pitches, mostly easy, WI2 except for the last which would have made WI3. Dave had never led ice before, but as forgiving as the flow is, we swapped leads, and he cranked his first three leads on water ice. As we exited, heading down to get me to town for a Drs appointment, we noticed above the exit route a SEVENTH pitch that looked longer/steeper than anything we'd done. So on New Years, the infamous Dr. Shipman and I returned to see what the last pitch was like. With the 8" new snow, we missed the first three pitches, but found the fourth, and continued up, also having picked up a "stray" by the name of Matt Hall, who just happened to have tools & poons with him. The three of us climbed pitches 4,5,6, then walked over to 7 and found a nice 100' wall with at least a half-dozen lines on it. Mark selected a nice WI4 rib, which he led in fine style while Matt took photos (apparently what he does for a living!)and I dodged dinner plates (successfully). We rapped the last pitch in fading light, then trundled down to the car, arriving just at dark. A SUPERB day. As I heard it, the line was first climbed by our own dear RAT, and the first time I climbed it we had Tom HEINZ along, so if Rat hasn't named it, I propose we call it RAT KETCHUP. It must be popular, because Dave and I saw two other parties on Thursday, and Mark and I picked up a third partner today! Anybody have a name for this? Or can we use the one I suggested. If it has a name already, I propose honoring the earliest one. -Haireball

Hey Mark -- you know if you get over here, that you've got a place to stay, right? We get insulted when friends come to town and PAY for room and board somewhere else... -Haireball

in my experience, if I'm carrying so much weight on the index finger support that it feels overloaded, I've got the support set too high on the shaft. try lowering it a quarter inch or so... and let me know how it goes... I'm perfectly open to the fact that it may not work for everyone, but it sure as blazes makes a positive difference for me!

Well said, Joe! If you feel you have to get a second opinion, then you'd best follow the printed directions...

I retune new picks all the time. Haven't had experience with the Grivel Evolution, but in my experience, a sharp, smooth top edge on the pick is helpful, along with a significant bottom bevel along the sides of the pick, ALL THE WAY TO THE TIP. I had the pleasure of recently acquiring 2 factory new BD picks, and the bottom bevel stopped short of the first tooth, which was left with a square bottom. They stuck, I filed, now they work as I feel they should. A word of caution - pick tuning is surprisingly personal, in my experience. A tuning that is optimized for one guy's swing may be less than optimal for his/her partner's swing. Don't be afraid to experiment - after all, you can always bring it back to what it is-- -Curt

if you don't mind climbing with a broken down old fart, I'd be willing to connect. I've done a fair bit of winter cragging as training for alpinism over the last forty years...

After reading responses from some cooler heads, I think I posted "precipitously". I would amend my response to feeling compelled to have that "heart-to-heart" with Blanco, and, depending on how you feel about the results of that encounter, then either "out" him,or not, as you feel moved. I would also hope that subsequent expeditions would ask for "references", in which case you might be able to make your case in private with the prospective partners. For background, we had a woman on our Aconcagua expedition in 1990 who had come with references from Jim Whitaker - we had verified that she had been "invited" on an Everest trip. Before we left, I did a Thanksgiving ascent of the walk-up South Side route on Mt. Hood. Of course at Thanksgiving, the Couloir above the Hogsback was melted back to black ice. On that trip, I discovered she had never worn crampons! Later, at Plaza de Mulas, (14000'), I also discovered that she had never heard of the "rest step" which most backpackers learn before they ever start climbing mountains. The point is, even with references and 'pre-trips' you can still get burned. Now, whenever I climb with a new partner, I simply revert to "guide" mode until the new person demonstrates he/she doesn't require that service.

thanks, Matt - in fact, many of the current generation of skinny ropes are certified for both types of use. But I don't participate in pissing matches. Even if you win one, you still walk away covered with piss.

the old Yodelin Lodge, is, I believe, the Stevens Pass Employee housing complex a mile east of the summit. Historically, the old Yodelin ski run has been used for sledding.

If you DON'T post, and the guy is killed and or kills someone else on one of his remaining "seven summits" attempts, how will you feel? Sure, you may get a few ignoramuses bitching about your "outing" this character, but if I were in your shoes, it would be a matter of conscience -- something I would feel compelled to do if I want to be able to live with myself. Your outing this character could save a life! From the sound of things, not doing so is likely to cost one or more.

As you say, Jon...

My son likes the leashless setup on the Aztars he has better than the Cobras I got for him, so I'm selling the Cobras! Feels good to see his and my preferences validated!!! You look good! We added trigger-supports on ours. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment (don't do anything permanent until your sure you like it). Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick...

You don't want to switch from half-style to twin-style (or vice versa) during a pitch unless you clip the twin points with separate carabiners. Reason is, if ya got two ropes in one carabiner, and ya load only one of them (as in half rope)then you'll have rope moving against rope, and may melt the one that's not loaded! Not a good thing. Best not to alternate between styles on a pitch. You can probably twin most halfs or half most twins, but its better not to mix the two styles in a single pitch.