montypiton

giant snickers - 560 calories - hard to beat. carried cases of these on Denali back in the early eighties... and substitute a bodybuilders "weight-gainer" for your normal hot-chocolate mix, and enjoy a 1000-calorie hot-drink!

Check out Marmot. I've found their price/value ratio to be pretty favorable. I tend to like Marmot and Montbell, and usually go with whichever I can get cheaper.

July 3 - A young woman descending Aasgard Pass lost control and slid into a moat below a rock about 1/3 of the way up the pass. Companions and bystanders organized a rescue attempt, and lowered a climber into the moat, but that climber was unable to locate the woman. Chelan County Sheriff obtained navy helicopter assistance from Whidbey Island,and that helicopter inserted two navy corpsmen and two Chelan County Mountain Rescue volunteers at the accident site. A hole was excavated through the twelve foot deep snowpack twenty-five feet downhill from the moat, and a corpsman was lowered into that hole, but again failed to locate the woman. Another hole was excavated fifty feet downhill from the moat, and a corpsman lowered again - this time he was able to locate and retrieve the woman who was no longer alive after five hours lying in running water beneath the snowpack. This is the second "moat-fall" fatality in this location in three years. This year's summer snowpack is persisting far later than usual. Watch yourselves...consider carrying transceivers & shovels, and maybe even traveling roped if you're not certain where the watercourses are likely to be...

As noted above,if a SAR mission begins with a 911 call, it will ALWAYS be a "government" operation. In my experience (thirty years Chelan County Mountain Rescue Association) this can mean anything from a crew of public employees to only one deputy who is "Incident Commander" commanding a crew of volunteers who have the expertise to execute the rescue. It has also been my experience that in our locality, the more technical the rescue, the more likely it is that we'll have one deputy who hands us a radio and says "do it, and let me know how it goes". As for charging rescuees, Washington state law mandates that the sheriff of the county in which the event occurs shall provide search and rescue services at no charge. The loudmouths who demand that adventurers be charged for this service are demonstrably ignorant of the laws of the state in which they live. You might get a fine, if you've done something you can be cited for, but you can't legally get a bill - although once the sheriff's SAR crew hands you off to the ambulance crew, ka-ching!

Both OP and Wild Country make large carabiners with extra-wide gate openings. I rack screws on these without issue. Advantage is that I can use the racking carabiner for anchor or pro as well, which you can't do with the plastics pieces of shit. I hate having things hanging on my harness that can't be used to anchor or protect me.

Superfeet also makes a heat-moldable system that is available at better ski specialty shops. (Arlberg in Wenatchee handles them) They make three or four different versions with varying amounts of cork and foam, ranging in price from about $100 - $200. At first glance that seems like a lot, except consider: I've been using the same pair of superfeet corks since 1986, and they're currently on their seventh pair of rigid technical ice boots. I think I got my money's worth... gave a pair to my wife for her birthday this year... the best you can do for a custom fit short of prescription orthotics, which will probably cost more than the boots...

I've done this route in January, and found the greater challenge to be getting to the lake -- however that was in the early 'eightys when the Stuart Lake trail was not a boot-packed trough. If you're a skier, the Colchuck Glacier makes a great ski descent... hiking the road adds four miles, and added about two hours to our approach to the lake. Another option is to get a tow from a snowmobile...

I've used the Olympus for years. If you buy it at Office Depot, they'll warranty it (nice for when your son drops it from a rappel station). All they require is that you return the trashed camera, and they just trade you a new one off the shelf. The best part of the deal is that when I returned mine, the model had been UPGRADED, and the new one did'nt cost me a dime. Also, its about the size of a half-inch thick credit card, and the photos are first rate.

Please listen to the above two posts. Then, if you still wish to use a leash, consider a short wrist loop attached at the head or the axe. The short leash will keep your hand in position during a self-arrest,-should the axe grab SUDDENLY, the leash will keep the axe from being ripped from your grasp. In my opinion, this is really the only reason to use a leash. If you're sliding you definitely DON'T want the axe tied to your waist - it may well beat you to death if you lose control of it...

check your pm file. also note at least three ebay deals ending within the next 24 hours that appear to meet your specs... -curt

At 57, many of my younger partners still expect me to lead the "hard" pitches, and I have partners in their 70s who climb as hard as ever, though not so fast as they used to. At least two of my regular partners in their sixties climb considerably harder than I do... I remember Steve Roper publishing an article about climbing with Fritz Weissner when Weissner was in his 90s. The climbs they were doing were maybe 5.8,but put in perspective, 5.8-9 was the standard of the hardest climbs in the world when Weissner was in his prime. 25 years ago, I was climbing 5.11+ when that standard was still a big deal. Pushing 60, I can still climb to 5.11 on a good day, and I expect to be able to still do this into my eighties. My experience is that partners will pay attention to what and how you climb, rather than how old you are... -Curt

Your decision here, in my opinion, is whether you want a sac for "emergency" use, or for "camping" on the route. Most bivvy sacs today are more accurately termed "one-person-tents". They have poles, some have stakes - and they weigh as much, too. If comfort is more of an issue than weight, buy one of these. If WEIGHT and BULK are issues, go for the lightweight envelope, and deal with the unavoidable condensation. I've used mylar sacs that pack down to the size of a cliff bar, and weigh about what a cliff bar weighs too. Yes, its damp, but for a single use, the price (about $5 at Sportsmansguide.com)is right. A small nylon tarp is a good compromise, since it weighs little, and you can either roll up in it like a cocoon in really ugly conditions, or pitch it to provide more airflow in more forgiving situations. Bottom line is, you need to be honest about your priorities, because they will determine which type of bivvy shelter is RIGHT for YOU.

A truly well-engineered four-season tent will vent well enough even in warm weather. The main noticeable difference is that it will be HEAVIER than an equally well engineered three-season tent. A couple of exceptions to this "rule" are the Hilleberg and Stephenson Warmlite lines, which both produce ultra-light expedition quality tents (for a PRICE). In the Cascades, I have found a ripstop (NOT MESH) walled "three season" tent to be adequate for most all conditions year round. The airspace between the breathable ripstop wall and the waterproof fly keeps the inner wall warm enough so that it breathes, allowing moisture to pass and condense on the colder fly layer. I know the mesh-walled versions are lighter, but I'd rather carry the extra half-pound or so and have a truly storm-worthy shelter. The extra weight of the "four-season" double wall versions make those tents more wind tolerant, however by properly locating and protecting a double-wall three-season model, this type of tent may be comfortably used in all but the most extreme conditions, when even a "four-season" or "expedition" model would be at risk. Notice, I don't write much about single-wall tents. Basically, ANY single wall tent will result in a certain amount of condensation. For that matter, so will a tarp. The current trend to manufacture single-wall "expedition" tents is mostly an effort to reduce weight at the expense of greater condensation inside. Unless you're willing to put up with that, I would avoid the single-wall versions, except perhaps as a "bivouac" shelter for a night or two. I do own a BD firstlight for that type of use, but for multiple nights,four seasons, I use double-wall tents. And in winter and at altitude, I prefer igloos and snow caves to any tent I've ever seen. Igloos don't blow apart or blow away...

you can lead on mine as long as I get to come with you, but you're talkin' stuff I'd sell the wife and kids first...

damn - talk about hoof in mouth - I was sure I read that the inside point was longer... Dane is right, with a slightly splayed foot, the outside point has to be longer just to reach the ice and penetrate -- so there I was trying to figger out reasons why they might make the inside point longer?!? sorry about that... at least now you all understand why I've switched to monopoints: 1) I don't have to mess with issues like this; and 2) makes a pair of points last twice as long if I use them one at a time, and I'm notoriously cheap

your photo shows more ice than I've seen on Rainbow Left in over 10 years. I'm not surprised at being this fat, it might seem more forgiving. In its more usual thin condition, I believe it merits the demanding rating. This fat, IV is probably generous, though not exceptionally inaccurrate...

I can think of a couple of rationales, but these may only demonstrate how irrationally I think -- -I know that I tend to wear out the inside frontpoint faster, so maybe the makers are anticipating that pattern? -Most of us tend to splay our feet slightly outward which would mean more weight focused over inside point... Honestly, if I found myself in this situation, I'd probably try climbing on them both ways, and choose whichever configuration seems to work better for me... Good Luck! -Curt

just picked up a PAIR of Marmot Cauldrons on Steep and Cheap for $59 apiece. couldn't resist, so got one for me, and one for my son. I'll let ya know once I've put one through its paces, but it looks to be a good wet-weather puffy, and at that price, could turn out to be just a townie jacket without makin' me feel bad... -Curt

c'mon, Dan, we both know that's more likely to happen at Icicle Buttrest -- I watched Dave Rayfield get his truck nailed while plowing the road by the buttrest a couple years ago Now THAT was good for a laugh! o, and what hit him released naturally -- there was no one on the buttrest at the time...

I will keep and eye out on ebay and craigslist for ya! If I see something looks like it might be your stuff should I notify you or your local sheriff? -Curt

I note, in these photos, that Nick Bullock is using a pair of DMM Rebels -- I keep tryin' to tell you guys...

Raichle, Lowa & Garmont may offer better fit if you happen to have a low-volume or narrow foot. Scarpa tends to fit wide or high-volume feet better. Even Vasque is putting out some attractive looking boots these days, although I haven't any personal experience of them since the 1970s... Just try on as many different boots as you can get your hands on, and buy what fits best. Kayland (available at Feathered Friends Seattle store) is also good, although not the best fit for me. My oldest son bought Kayland after trying on virtually every other boot available in Seattle...

sounds like a good project! I'll be interested to see your opinions. Personally, I'd like to see more down-filled models in the mix -- but that's just me. Having decades of experience with down, I'm willing to put up with the risk of getting it wet, and the extra precautions I need to take to keep it dry in warm/wet conditions... currently, I have a 1970s vintage Holubar Colorado Parka that I use in subzero conditions, and a Marmot Zeus jacket that, at 12-oz, is more efficient for the closer to freezing temps. If its warm enough to rain, I just layer up in fleece because the primaloft jacket I bought a couple of years ago didn't survive my epic last June. Note that the Marmot Zeus has no hood. I don't really miss it because I usually carry a light balaclava and full warm hat. no hood might be a dealbreaker for some, but it isn't for me. Still, I'd like to see a few more down versions in your test mix. Also, the Montbell brand appears to be missing - and they have several tops, both primaloft and down, that I'd like to see in your comparison. How about including at least one down and one synthetic Montbell item? -Curt

medicsandy -- wise move, to bring up your reservations about glissading. unfortunately, the stories you hear will vary enormously -- so much depends on whether the runout is safe or not, whether conditions are fast (hard) or forgiving, and not least, your own comfort/skill level. I've been with groups where some members will "boot ski" (standing glissade) down a slope that other members of the same group will downclimb on crampons & two tools. For both the boot skier and the downclimber, the choice of technique was correct -- the key factor being that individual's skill/comfort level. Your best bet would be to get out on some smaller slopes, where consequences of misjudgment might be less threatening, and PRACTICE. Only mileage will provide you with the perspective to judge accurrately for yourself whether a given slope is safe for a standing glissade, sitting glissade, walk down, climb down or even rappel. And the appropriate descent tactic for you may well be inappropriate for a companion. Only practice mileage will give you the perspective to sort out such issues. So go find some "pet" slopes, and do some slidin'! And try to keep your face in one piece while you're at it... there may be a tendency to smile so hard you tear your face in half! -Haireball

make sure you re-read mtnguide's post a half-dozen times or so - just to make sure that EVERYTHING he's saying registers - because he's spot-on! The li'l ole grammas who waltz up Adams are probably tougher than a lot of certified guides... if you can locate one, you might consider tagging along with her... -Haireball