montypiton

if you don't mind climbing with a broken down old fart, I'd be willing to connect. I've done a fair bit of winter cragging as training for alpinism over the last forty years...

After reading responses from some cooler heads, I think I posted "precipitously". I would amend my response to feeling compelled to have that "heart-to-heart" with Blanco, and, depending on how you feel about the results of that encounter, then either "out" him,or not, as you feel moved. I would also hope that subsequent expeditions would ask for "references", in which case you might be able to make your case in private with the prospective partners. For background, we had a woman on our Aconcagua expedition in 1990 who had come with references from Jim Whitaker - we had verified that she had been "invited" on an Everest trip. Before we left, I did a Thanksgiving ascent of the walk-up South Side route on Mt. Hood. Of course at Thanksgiving, the Couloir above the Hogsback was melted back to black ice. On that trip, I discovered she had never worn crampons! Later, at Plaza de Mulas, (14000'), I also discovered that she had never heard of the "rest step" which most backpackers learn before they ever start climbing mountains. The point is, even with references and 'pre-trips' you can still get burned. Now, whenever I climb with a new partner, I simply revert to "guide" mode until the new person demonstrates he/she doesn't require that service.

thanks, Matt - in fact, many of the current generation of skinny ropes are certified for both types of use. But I don't participate in pissing matches. Even if you win one, you still walk away covered with piss.

the old Yodelin Lodge, is, I believe, the Stevens Pass Employee housing complex a mile east of the summit. Historically, the old Yodelin ski run has been used for sledding.

If you DON'T post, and the guy is killed and or kills someone else on one of his remaining "seven summits" attempts, how will you feel? Sure, you may get a few ignoramuses bitching about your "outing" this character, but if I were in your shoes, it would be a matter of conscience -- something I would feel compelled to do if I want to be able to live with myself. Your outing this character could save a life! From the sound of things, not doing so is likely to cost one or more.

Thanks, Mark, but it's not worth it. Even the WINNER of a pissing match leaves the arena covered in piss. I choose to withdraw, instead.

As you say, Jon...

My son likes the leashless setup on the Aztars he has better than the Cobras I got for him, so I'm selling the Cobras! Feels good to see his and my preferences validated!!! You look good! We added trigger-supports on ours. If you haven't tried it, you might experiment (don't do anything permanent until your sure you like it). Personally, I feel like supporting the index finger is like power steering for the pick...

Dane- You're absolutely right! The fact that I took the tags off one of them and used it twice makes it used, not new, and the fact that one of them had been a shop demo that had seen almost no use before I bought it also makes that one used. However, I will bow to consensus. My sale offer is withdrawn. The tools are no longer available on Cascadeclimbers.com I'm in the phone book in Leavenworth if someone is interested, but they're most likely sold after Wednesday anyway. And for those who are willing to keep a daily watch on ebay, I'm certain you can get a better deal than I am offering here, so you really should do that. I recommend it! Just don't try to resell on this venue if you and your son like something else better...

so go watch ebay! Why do you think I recommended that to people? It may take a month or so, but you'd do better, and I won't be offended. However, if you want this deal it's here. If you don't want it, and can do better, by all means go where you can get the best deal! I certainly do! Yes, by all means, Quote my words back to me! I got a helluva deal on these tools, which I'm not prepared to offer to someone else. So what? You aren't buying them, obviously, so why should it matter to you? Don't climb with me, either! My Dr. keeps pulling me off the job, because after last June's big fall, I'm brain-damaged. Doesn't seem to bother my long-time partners (who know very well what I paid for these tools, and are still referring their good friends to me because they recognize that their friends will get a good deal - most of them have tried the tools, too) Should I NOT have offered the deal to this community? If that's what you prefer, I certainly don't have to offer them here. They'll be sold in a couple of days either way... Try to do someone a good turn and they spit in yer eye because yer good turn doesn't hurt you, is that it?

You don't want to switch from half-style to twin-style (or vice versa) during a pitch unless you clip the twin points with separate carabiners. Reason is, if ya got two ropes in one carabiner, and ya load only one of them (as in half rope)then you'll have rope moving against rope, and may melt the one that's not loaded! Not a good thing. Best not to alternate between styles on a pitch. You can probably twin most halfs or half most twins, but its better not to mix the two styles in a single pitch.

Nice try, Dane, but I don't feel a bit guilty. When you walk into a retail outlet, you generally pay that markup or more. Honestly, both my son and I prefer the DMM Rebel, and this sale will finance the tools he really wants. If ya don't like it, don't buy them. I feel like I'm in the positon of making whoever does want them a helluva deal, without taking a bath myself. Why would I feel guilty. Yesterday, I sold a young man (a sixteen-year old that I'm mentoring along with my son) a pair of Aztars modified to climb leashless, $100.00 for the pair. I don't feel ripped off, and he gets a pair of tools that he preferred over the Cobras when he demoed both the day before yesterday. Like I say - I'm giving someone a helluva deal, and its gonna work out well for both of us. BTW-I've got a guy scheduled to demo them on Wednesday, so nyah-nyah--besides, I think yer just jealous -- or do you intentionally lose money on all the stuff you list here?

I'm in Leavenworth (live there)and have an ice-cragging day planned for Wednesday. You're welcome to join us. Shoot me a pm.

OK gearwhores, now's your chance! I have a pair of virtually new BD Cobras - that latest model, that I need to unload. One has been used twice, the other was a shop demo tool. Both have picks that will be freshly tuned before shipping. They are perhaps 1/3 of the first tooth gone (I like to keep my tools VERY sharp). $450 for the pair, or $225 individually. I will list them on ebay in 48 hours if no-one here wants them. My son and I both prefer the DMM Rebel...

Fit is critical, because the shell will NOT break in. Custom footbeds (try a high end ski shop,Superfeet makes a number of footbeds that might solve most of the problem) will make a huge difference. So will preventive taping. And wear them around your house for as many hours at a time as is practical to help break in your feet to the boots.

Most of the "standards" are currently in, and should be gettin'fatter all week if the weather forecast is even remotely accurate. The Central (chicken) Gully on Icicle Butt-rest is about the only thing that's NOT in. Tumwater isn't quite as nice. The Drip came in two weeks ago, but is gone now. Drury is there, but watch the crossing. Comic Book Hero and Plastic Fantastic Lover are pretty weak, but you could have some good mixed adventure in that area, if that's your cuppa tea. PM me sometime, cuz I drive a school bus in Leavenworth, and I'm always lookin' for fresh meat.

Hey Icefrog- The CFCC (if I told you you'd have to kill me, and if you know, then you're automatically a member) is always lookin' for fresh meat around Leavenworth to Banks Lake! We're some of us lookin' pretty gray above the ears, but we can give most youngsters a helluva workout... pm me!

Yes, Craig, it does look vaguely familiar, although what Mark and I climbed was nowhere near that FAT. This is a superb season so far, and the temps for the next tent days indicate it should get nothing but better for a while. Keep those TRs coming! Always easier to expand the ticklist when ya got lotsa help!!!

The really cool thing is, the truly quality lines eventually end up in guidebooks anyway, and who really cares who climbed it FIRST? I know for a fact that I have been credited (at least by the National Park Service) with "first ascent" of lines on which I've found old rusty pitons in place! (example: Devils Tower, Wyoming, Mr. Clean, 1976 - the pitons were most likely from a 1950s era event during which the M&CWTC - Mountain & Cold Weather Tactics Corps - swarmed over the Tower like an anthill for a week or so...what's even worse is that I coauthored the guidebook in which that credit was published! Shame on me!!!) I've had the fortune to grow up just a smidge in the interim, and now believe that beta can be provided for subsequent climbers in a less ego-pumping way. If "fame" wasn't part of the picture, we might see fewer "misguided" attempts on routes of "dubious" quality, using "controversial" methods... And no, I DON'T wanna start beating that dead horse here - this is a remarkably high-quality thread so far,and my Christmas Wish is that it stays that way!!

..."if you have an epic, consider it a gift..." Well said, Rolf, and I heartily agree! At my age, and my stage of recovery from my near-death experience last June, epics are pretty easy to come by these days... coupla days ago, I even epic'ed on the Funnel!!! (Shipman can share the story of taking care of me during our ignominious retreat) I no longer have to spend big bucks or go somewhere exotic for this experience - now I can enjoy it on my "pet" climbs... one of the benefits of age & decrepitude... -Curt

j b is correct - Comici coined the falling drop of water saying. It is sometimes mis-attributed to Cassin because Comici was one of Cassin's mentors. I sometimes report (claim) FAs, but not often anymore. The feeling of being on an undocumented line is indescribable, and I have taken to not reporting my ascents of "undocumented" lines, because I wish to leave that same experience to subsequent teams... I share reports with close friends whom I think might enjoy a particular climb, and given the traffic in the Cascades these days, I prefer not to claim that any climb is a "first ascent" - I consider it more accurrate to report the climb as being a previously undocumented one. -Curt

Reading the comments attached to the World story, I am struck by commentators' ignorance of their own state constitution. Anyone familiar with the constitution of the state of Washington would know that no sheriff anywhere in the state can legally charge a recipient of rescue service for the sheriffs department's costs. The state constitution mandates that county sheriffs provide such services at no charge! (one reason they depend so heavily on volunteer SAR units) At Osprey, however, Gary would be well within his rights to send a bill, just like ambulance companies throughout the state routinely bill recipients of their services provided in SAR operations. (Collecting on those bills is entirely another matter, though...) That's an easy place to get in trouble, with extremely serious consequences (a Grade VI rapid, variously known as The Wall, or The Quartermile Drop immediately downstream continuing all the way to the candy store. These guys are damned lucky to be alive!!!

In case anyone is confused, my response to genepires' question was a serious one. I do climb with some pretty accomplished partners who climb on "antique" tools. Were I a more accomplished ice-climber, I might, too. In a thread elsewhere, I had described buying the current model Cobras on EBAY, and finding them priced less than the current model Viper (screamin' deal, mine were $150 each!). I suspect this phenomenon is the result of merchants who order inventory of both tools, and find that the Viper sells more readily because it is not only less expensive, but also (with its more "natural" swing) more forgiving for the less-accomplished or less-demanding ice climber. The excess Cobra inventory then ends up with a liquidator like the one I bought mine from...

interesting observation, yeoman... I couldn't tell, but it seems like one could use them as hand support for the daggerring that was shown early on in the video. long as they're there, it would seem absurd not to use them for that...

I have a few partners who still climb on them, and just last winter I sold my old Cassin Antares (same generation as BD x15, and its equal in performance) to none other than John Tarver, (first solo of Polar Circus - 1981) whom I witnessed climbing on those very tools last Sunday!!