Dannible

I did the route last week. Some people seem to not care for it, but I thought that it was amazing. If you don't mind simul-climbing mid 5th and soloing the easy stuff down low, doing it in a day is the way to go for sure. The steep walk down seems never ending though. It would have been nice to have your road map, we spent 2 hours driving around trying to find out where to leave our bikes. A tip for people doing it in a day: if you don't have 2 cars, leave camping gear where you leave your bikes (hopefully you have bikes); that way you can wait to bike down to the main road in the morning when you have a better chance of getting a ride to your car. Otherwise you have a long uphill ride to end your long day.

Nice. I fell 3 times on those last moves up to the summit. Pretty satisfying to mantle right onto the top.

I sent mine to Ramuta's in Montana (search for them online) at the beginning of the summer because last year I dropped them off there (in seattle), and they showed up in the mail just 3 or 4 days later. This year he got them back to me before I even paid for them. I saw a advertisement for a place in Winthrop, but I don't know anything about it.

Sweet! Glad its getting climbed. I spent a while kicking and jumping on both of the things that you called loose blocks on the topo while I was following, and couldn't get them to come off. I think the bottom one will come off at some point, but the top one just seemed to get more stuck in the crack, and might be ok. I didn't see the first deathblock, but Blake gave the one below the zebra stripes a good kicking and it seemed pretty steady. I'll admit, I was pretty scared walking over that thing at first, as it very well could have chopped the rope if it fell. Kind of a fun traverse since its solid though; we dubbed it "walking the plank." I had pictures of Blake on it, but mistakenly deleted them. Nice job on the variation, I'd bet that by the end of next summer every crack up there will have been climbed.

Yep, good call. Someone left a rap sling that looked really new close to where we bailed, so I was interested to see if anyone here would say that they had been up there.

Sweet! I can assure everyone that the overall picture of the ridge doesn't do this thing justice. When we were up there last month we were thinking it would be an easy grade III, but once we got to the first tower and saw how much there was ahead of us we immediatly agreed that rapping 1000 feet down an unknown face (in order to end up in a place where we could go on with the traverse) would be a better option than trying to finish the ridge. How was the rock overall? Was the ridge just past where we bailed as steep and loose as it looked? What was the deal with all those little towers (visible from the south) just before the summit, were you able to just go around them? Cool that you finally got to do a summit bivy. Retire your ropes, G!

Blake is right, this was fun. Next to Rebel Yell I would say that this route has the best rock of any route that I have done in the mountains, and is way better than anything that I have done in the Liberty Bell group (and has a shorter approach, and is 5 minutes away). Fun slabs, splitter cracks, nice face holds, and pro right where you need it.

Good stuff for sure, but I thought the newer one was better. You should post something on that.

Funny, I was gonna say that wildcountry nuts suck. I have a few and I don't know why, but for me they never seem to fit right. Now I only bring them when I might want something to leave behind. DMMs are numero uno.

If it was up to him our rack would have been some nuts and a pocketfull of rocks to sling. So Gordy asked the other guy if he did indeed climb the same ridge? Fun stuff anyway.

Weird summer indeed. Between rain and a couple of small injuries for me, it's not the best time to be a climbing bum. Thanks though. Lets hope for a sunny September.

Yep, I think you know where we were. The route that we talked about would have taken more time than we expected, so we ended at a subsummit and went on our way. The reason I was asking if someone could guess is that we suspect that someone else was up there shortly before us. The part of our traverse that we got through was mostly hiking, easy rock, and snow. The real climbing was to come in the second half

Impossible is a strong word. I'm not saying that I could do it, but I think that south Gunsight, by the south ridge could be quite possible for some people (when the trail is in).

Someone should guess where that first picture was taken. We know that someone knows.

I would think that if you know the area good enough to be wandering around in the dark, those that you list could be climbed in a day (at least Agnes, Storm-King, and Dome; I cant comment on the Fury). The real challenge comes in doing non-standard routes in a day.

After looking at the book again I'd say that both the topo and the description are much different than what I climbed, even though I'm pretty sure I was on route. From the base the line is pretty obvious. The first few pitches are straight up, then after that you have to traverse right from the belays a couple times, once using a sling fixed to bolts above to swing around a corner. After an obvious narrow chimney go left to a big cave (the biggest cave is the higher one), and from there go up and right following the path of least resistance to avoid the A3 that the book says something about. I wouldn't even bring the route description with you, it'll just confuse you.

Gear to 3" is fine. There are no offwidths, just squeeze chimneys that you can protect fine with normal pro. I had to haul my pack through one, but it was not very hard. When I did it the first pitch looked harder than I thought it should so I went up corners and slabs off to the right of the normal start, then traversed left to the start the second pitch. Do not do this; the pro was worthless, and the climbing hard. Just start where the book tells you to. Above that I thought the route was fun. BTW- The topo in the Beckey book is all wrong (I think), and there is some 5.9 here and there.

The worst part is the lowland sun that makes me keep wondering how bad it really is up there. Aw well, it'll get done.

Lots of work to get up there on nasty logging roads (unless you have friends in high places ). I was up there a few years ago and saw old bolts but it is pretty chossy as I remember.

Booty.

Sounds like your rope was dragging over an edge or around a corner. Most of the time pulling it through webbing only isn't much harder than pulling it through a biner. If you are worried about a sling that others have been using without a rap ring you can back it up with another sling or piece of pro (unweighted) for the first person, then if it looks ok the second person can pull the extra gear/sling and rap on just the old one. I'll admit that I never bring rap rings.

I've gone through that one without even having to give the guy my DL, but then the next time got searched going through the same one.

Of course it helps to be white, clean shaven, and have short hair too.

I've always gone ready with a DL and BC, and they've never even looked at my BC. Sometimes they don't even care to see my DL. If you say something like "I'm just going to hang out in Vancouver" they are more likely to give you trouble than if you say, for example, "I'm going climbing in Squamish."

Road is closed at the Eldorado TH, which is about 2.75 miles before the Boston Basin trail, and 4.75 miles before the cascade pass TH.