Sherri

Wow, those are some industrious baddies. Scary to hear how far they'll go to capitalize on what they got from the initial heist.

Thanks for sharing that, Mark. Great job working through those challenges. Sounds like getting into that "sweet spot" with your rhythm on the jambs was worth all the effort. I liked that book, too. Even though it's been a year since I first read it, I find that its lessons still pop to mind from time to time, helping me through a sketchy lead or quieting a noisy ego debate in my head. BTW, I regularly climb with a guy who is about your age--he's one of the most talented, energetic and motivated climbers I know. It's quite an inspiration...and kinda makes me look forward to being "old", especially if I'll be climbing even half as well as him by then.

I appreciate the chance to toprope climbs that are beyond my lead ability or that I otherwise don't have the opportunity to do as a second. Just don't think I'd feel comfortable doing it from that particular set of anchors on a busy day because it's at the confluence of so many routes that folks are doing on lead. But, hey, if you've the crag all to yourself, there's certainly nothing wrong with a little nose-pickin'. Just keep in mind, boogers are aid.

No way he's gonna fit that cross into those saddlebags. Needs a trailer.

Ask for a partner named Job? He was a battler.

Agreed-- that set of anchors gets clogged up pretty quickly with traffic. But, now that it's been brought up, it WOULD make for the mother of all of topropes...

I prefer a gear anchor.

Bumper sticker should be included with the guidebook: "WWJC" (What Would Jesus Climb?)

I bet they are beautiful just the way they are.

...because if it were peanut butter, I wouldn't have gotten it thru Canadian customs? I still can't believe I fell for that.

Cool! I'll be the one carrying a thick notebook of beta. I know what you mean about Sickle. I led it a couple weeks ago(as a variation of the Aries route which I was doing as a second on the rest of the pitches), and it definitely had a spooky feel. But I should add that, once committed to it, the edges were positive enough to make you feel secure about making it up without decking. I don't think I'm near ready to lead the upper part of Toxic(yet) but I forgot about those easier lines on the bottom. Thanks, Matt!

Thanks for the great beta, all. Kinda new at finding my own way around the place, and so I really appreciate the help. I'm going to add your notes to my guidebook and put them to good use--hopefully this weekend!

Looking to fill out a day on easy stuff(up to 5.7) at the GNS. Looking at the guidebook, seems like GNS, Taurus, and the 5.6 version of Pisces are my options. I've not done either of the latter routes and was wondering if you can do them as variations of GNS once you reach the big railroad anchors? Do they both end at the same anchors as GNS, in the dead-tree grove above those last two bolts on the arete/slab finish of GNS? Also, from the top of Sickle Crack, is there a way around Buttlips that would keep me in the 5.7 or below range? Not that I wouldn't enjoy the chance to lose some more skin and rubber in that thing, but I'm not good(or brave) enough to do so yet on lead. Can it be TR'd along one of the other routes? I've tried to see how would piece together using this topo, but not sure if it's leaving out something that could be important to know ahead of time(such as "you can't there from here" type thing). GNS Topo

Thanks for the beta, Porter. I knew I was missing something . Archie's method works, too, though.

I bitched about being fat? And thanks.

Sure, but only after Archie's done with them.

You had me at "buttered".

Missed you folks at the Brew pub Saturday night. I stopped by around 9pm but didn't know anyone there well enough to recognize them as a cc.comer, so I didn't hang out for long. Would have been cool to hear about your climb firsthand...the photos are beautiful!

As I understand it, the patent for the Yates Rocker was bought by Singing Rock, so you may have better luck locating one if you search for it under the new manufacturer's name. Link to website selling new Rocker. I tried mine out for the first time this weekend, TR soloing some short easy stuff. Love it so far.

I stopped in last night but didn't see anyone I could recognize as a cc.comer. Was looking forward to meeting some of you weird folks. So when are those new cc.comer t-shirts coming out???

The trick is to make it when you have guests. Share the love(and the calories. ) Enjoy!

That's what you get for peeking. Both are verrrrry good, but verrrrry bad. I used to make it in a batch big enough to feed about 500 people, so I wouldn't trust my guestimates on proportions. If you do a google search for "avocado soup recipes", you'll be better served, I reckon. Look for the chilled ones that require no cooking. FYI, if you want to make it a bit healthier, substitute some low-fat or skim milk for some or all of the cream, and use quark or "light" sour cream. If it seems thinner than you'd like, a few more avocados will beef up the texture. Some recipies also add chicken stock, but you can make a perfectly good version without that. I hope you can find a good recipe! Eating this soup feels so naughty, like eating dip without the chip. Disclamier: I cannot be held responsible for any caloric consequences resulting from the consumption of yummy foods described here. This recipe, from Cooks.com, closely approximates the version I make: CHILLED AVOCADO SOUP 4 ounces sour cream 2 avocados, peeled, seeded and puréed 6 3/4 ounces green chilies, puréed 1/4 of an onion, pureed 1/2 tablespoon garlic powder 1/2 quart light cream 1 cup heavy cream 1 ounce chipotle chile pepper, puréed 1 cup whole milk 1 tablespoon lemon or lime juice to taste salt to taste while pepper Combine all ingredients into a large mixing bowl and mix well. Allow to chill overnight to let the seasonings blend before using. If I were making this now, I'd probably add an extra avocado(if the national shortage of them has subsided, of course), substitute whole milk for half of the light cream, and add a pinch of cumin(just a tiny one, so it doesn't overpower the fruit). You can also leave out the chilis in this recipe, if you're shy about heat.

A well-told, beautiful experience. Thanks for the inspiration.

In that case, you should try chilled avocado soup sometime. Sounds weird, but I promise you, it is the ultimate avocado experience, especially for summer eating. I used to make a shamefully rich version at the restaurant, with pureed avocados, heavy cream, sour cream, lime juice, and garlic and topped each bowl with freshly-fried tortilla strips. Unlike it's chunkier country-cousin guacamole, this chilled soup is classy, velvety, and buttery-smooth. Try it. Your avocados will thank you.

I like your style.