billbob

OMG, this is just begging for help. Somebody please....

One would think that, given this winter's incidents, people would get the idea that upper elevations on Hood in winter is not a particularly user-friendly place to be. Experience in white-out conditions, standard alpine climbing equipment (GPS, compass/map etc.) and a lot of local knowledge mitigate risk to a great extent. MLU's are a choice we have in terms of insurance but they aren't a substitute for competence. Winter climbs on any PNW alpine routes demand a lot of respect and attention to weather changes.

KATU Survey on their website today: Do you think Mount Hood climbers should be required to wear locators? Yes No Only for Hood? What's next?? What about the other 90+% of non-climbers that get lost??

Glad to hear you didn't go, Sam. Sucks to forget the GPS or wands in winter weather. I would never do something that stupid. More than once, I mean.

I thought it a rather humorous reply at the time, but maybe that was due to the incipient white-out, freezing fog, 50+mph winds, and a serious beer jones.

Mirror Pond ?! Damn, I thought you said it was a Coke!

Rock and ice do fall off Crater Rock... Also note that snow conditions above the Palmer on Sat were about 8" of loose unconsolidated stuff not adhering well to ice below. Makes it tough to dig a cave unless you find better on the lee side of something big. Also note that winds on or near the White Canyon ridge can be challenging at times. Check out current conditions at Timberline lodge website, top of magic mile lift.

Ya sure, stay tuned. Looking at mid to late March, weather permitting. Have talked to a couple people there and encourage you to do same. They sound like good people.

Ya, pricing posted are group rates.

My oops, was there Sat 1/27.

Ya, they would agree to do a "special". Maybe they don't get a lot of business this time of year. No limit was mentioned but would want to keep it to max 5 others. We would, to some extent, be subject to typical winter conditions. As to the route, that is really tbd as even the usual Old Chute/Pearly Gates (this winter) are a bit more than the usual newbie would want to deal with. Personally I would be fine w/ the WCR or chutes as this is intended as a bridge out of newbie-ness and since mentors are hard to find...

We made it to the Silcox hut before bailing, winds were a bit higher there. Tougher climbers than I, met coming down the SS route reported lower winds in the crater area but really high wind at the summit. Wondering if anyone actually made it all the way?

Fellow Newbies - I am interested in doing a 2 day Advanced Climbing course through Timberline Mountain Guides on Mt. Hood. It would consist of a first day going over lots of technical things and a second summit day doing Leuthold or similar route. Point is, it would be way cheaper if at least one other person wanted to join in. See their web page at http://www.timberlinemtguides.com/Mountaineering/MtHood.html We would plan on doing this on a weekend with decent weather permitting sometime between late Feb - late March. If anyone has an opinion of TMG or a suggestion for another guide co., please give it up. I'm getting tired of learning things the hard way.

Didn't make it out this weekend.... how was the slog up?

Taken morning after you guys came down. Same route.

Josh, Better watch the weather real close before making the trip, and if it looks good then still keep a sharp eye out cuz it can go from great to shit about as fast as you can get down. Even a weak warm front moving through is enough to bring 60-80mph winds near the peak along w/ freezing rain (last weekend). Avi danger is pretty high these days. We have a lot more bad weather than good in winter, so the odds of picking a random weekend and finding good weather and snow conditions are not in your favor. Be prepared for total white-out. Good Luck.

June 16, 2006, Mt Hood S. Side, ascending the Pearly Gates. Three climbers simulclimbing 45-50 degrees and icy, using one picket (reportedly only one, please correct if wrong). One climber fell, pulling out the pro. All three tumbled 500' down, no fatalities but pretty bad injuries.

Snow conditions there change, like 12/31/06 was sweet stepping but next day crusty slab, bare ice, freezing rain, and white-out above 8,500' Don't forget your gps or wand your route if there is a chance the weather could turn. Winter on Hood can be the best ever or the worst possible.

FYI - Heard loud boom from White River canyon yesterday, avi caused from the heavy freezing rain coming down maybe? Was coming down W side of WRC ridge from Triangle Moraine. Saw several smaller ones on W slope of the ridge, running across climbers path going back to TL. Conditions up there change fast.

Great pics, glad you guys had a great time, wishing we had gone all the way up New Year's eve instead of camping at 9,600'. Guess we talked in passing you about the solo dude. We woke about 1am Jan 1 to big winds, headed down into heavy freezing rain which lit off an avi or two in the White River canyon. Pure white-out from 9,500' to 8,500'. Left the gps at home, now requesting name change to "Shit for Brains". Where's a hot tub when you need it?

20 mg dextroamphetamine just before the crux, really helps steady the nerves. Also good for extended periods of snow cave residence.

Don't forget to include Mr. Whittaker's famous saying that "To summit is optional, to return is mandantory". I know some sayings by other famous climbers but they all contain bad language or references to sexual acts and can't be posted here.

Way back in the beginning I thought to glissade down a very modest slope, crampons attached to boots. Later a guy came up to tell me his story about breaking both legs doing the same. Being some ways away from his car, he apparently had something of an epic return. It's better to learn from others' mistakes.

Gates of Fire KFA

Having recently lost a $500 tent to the winds I can testify that aluminum snow stakes don't work well in icy conditions. Now I use pickets, ice axes, big rocks, and plastic bags. In typical winter weather, where the snow is wet and/or soft, it seems that peeing on anchors can freeze them in tight. Just don't try that at home and be sure to aim carefully.