Jump to content

Frikadeller

Members
  • Posts

    699
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Frikadeller

  1. Why not? Personal experience? Smoke 'em if ya got them...
  2. I climb because I am a selfish motherfucker, and don't care what anyone thinks...
  3. Not really, because for the MLU some one has to report that a party is missing, otherwise no one knows anything... So in the case of an injured climber hunkered down in a cave/bivy they have to send someone to activate SAR/Rescue to the fact that there is a problem up on the Mtn... This was the case when my father slipped and fell to his death on Mt. Ritter in the sierras. his climbing partner did not know how badly he was injured, or for that matter alive, and packed a speed pack and summoned help... (My father fell into a moat and was not accessible by one person alone)... He did the right thing in that case, summon help. A MLU (not applicable here, MLU is for Mt. Hood only) and cell phones have no reception in this case... Hiking (or running in my fathers case) out is the only choice... There is no doubt in my mind that the group in question did all the right things in the right situation. One cannot predict or account 100% for what the weather is going to do, and in their situation, they got caught in a storm, a PLB or MLU cant help you there. And as a matter of fact, even if they had stayed together, and activated a MLU or PLB, they would most likely still be hunkered down in a bivy, since SAR is unable to get to where they are... Still... Mr. jones, do you have a EPIRB or PLB on your boat at all times when you go out? Even just for a trip that is close to shore? How many boaters do? I would gather that these climbers where and are ten times more prepared for what they are doing and what an epic this has become for them, and is too bad that there are people that want to monday morning quarterback situations when they themselves have absolutely no idea what this sport is all about. Thats fine and that is your right, but we think you suck for that, and thats our right, and this is a climbing web site, so don't expect people here to consider your "quarterbacking" with nice comments.
  4. That was my first guess when I read his "sales" speil in his first post...
  5. Perhaps because of avalanche dangers, and perhaps to get the team back to regroup and de breif them and send up a fresh team in the morning.
  6. No matter how you explain it to Mr. Jones, I don't think that he is going to understand what it is that attracts us to climbing... Or why someone would go up a mountain in the middle of the winter... But thats fine, because while he is busy not becoming "a popsicle" and posting stupid comments on a website, I will be skinning my new spitboard up some new snow tomorrow, and hopefully get some good turns in. I guess I will be able to see the helicopters and planes serching for these guys, as I think I am gonna skin up to palmer... (I hope that part of the mountain is not closed??!)
  7. Oh, If that is true, I guess a couple of my guide books are wrong... But as I understand it, they also only work if you activate it, and someone notifies the Sheriff that someone is overdue..
  8. Well, as I understand it, the MLU only works on the SOUTH SIDE of the mountain.. These guys where climbing the NORTH FACE, and decending on the south side.... So, if they are dug in on the NORTH side of the mountain, that MLU is as useful as a brick in your pack.. And as far as safety equipment, they are carrying that kind of stuff. Ropes, pickets, Ice axes, crampons, and screws are safety equipment that all of us climbers bring along. So, unless they are free soloing the NF of hood, in T-shirts and Jeans, I would say that they are safety sissies...
  9. The route these guys where talking about is no where near where the helicopter saw the two climbers earlier. It is near impossible to traverse from the south side of Hood over to tie in rock (well, not impossible, but kinda tough) so I doubt that is them they are seeing, and more likely that it is the climbers we are all looking for. I hope that this gives some more perspective on the geographic locations of the mountain.
  10. Well put Winter. Sitting here with my pack loaded ready to go. Someone please, ring the bell. Hey, at least I feel better now, because I am sitting here with my pack loaded as well... I am waiting for that bell to ring as well.. -Otto
  11. Whats a recreational climber? Are people climbing in the South side this time of year?
  12. Too bad my feet are too big, or I would buy them off ya...
  13. $100 and you're styling retro style... http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/205556829.html
  14. I'll hit the Taco Bell instead on MLK and Lombard on the way in ( I live right off Dekum and 18th), so Javiers is actually out of the way, just slightly...Not by much though. Maybe after the next assault i'll give Javiers a try... BTW do they have anything in the vegetarian world? (not me but the wife requires it, fish is OK though)...
  15. Where do you live? I am looking to move into an out of control party house. This 9-5, wife and a dog life are killing me.
  16. You actually eat a Javiers? Every time I have gone by, it's either empty, or it's 2am and it's packed with the Woodlawn Bloods...
  17. Dont ask any questions, and dont go snooping around either, or we'll have to kick your barney ass, Bra!
  18. The standard route up the south side has been directly in line with where the Hogsback ridge went, and ended in a narrow colouir called "Peraly gates"... but this winter the snowridge (hogsback) shifted sharply to the west, elimnating the "straight shot" at the "pearly gates", so people have been climbing to the climbers left into a colouir named "old shute" which is named so because in the early days of the climbing the mountain, this was the more direct route, because the snow ridge terminated there. This year, the old chute is a little steeper in some sections than pealy gates, but has less exposure. I have climbed both routes this year, before the Bergshrund opened, so I have no realy idea how people are passing the schrund this year. Probably to the climbers right. I think that the FS is just trying to caution you, because it is getting later in the season, and when things warm up, there is a good amount of rock fall in these colouirs later in the day. If you do climb it, I would advise to do so before the sun hits that side (read: at night, or before full sunrise)... The south side is better, as are most routes on Hood, done in early in the spring or in winter, if weather permits. Check out the "oregon cascades" section of this board, there are lots of Trip reports with pictures of this years routes... And of course as suggested, Jeff Thomas's Book is one of the better guides to the routes on Mt. Hood... http://www.powells.com/biblio?isbn=0962904201
  19. This should make the pictures show up...
  20. So if you had a daughter engaged in a divorce proceeding brought about by a husband who claimed infidelity, and you had to decide whether the case would be tried in a Western court, or in a court which enforced Sharia law - you'd flip a coin? Ditto for deciding whether a suitcase nuke would end up in the hands of a Baptist congregation in Lubbock Texas, or in a Mosque in northeastern Pakistan? Riiiight. so are you prepared to do battle w/ every culture that rejects our values? Apparently the United States is ready to... At the sacrifice of our soldiers... Which, by the way, if you are so much for a war with these people, then, why dont you enlist? Serve you fool.. Too old, I think not!! They just raised the minimmum age to enlist in the Army to 42!! Yeah, thats gonna be good...42 year old E1's... Hmm... Thats gonna be sweet!
  21. How camera freindly do you have to be? Also, Do you need to be in shape to do K2? And isn't that in Pakistan... Is it a good idea for an American to hang out in Pakistan during these here "Jihad" kind of times?
  22. Here are some Hoodies crevasses on the south side...PIc take last 6/24
  23. Farming snow? I guess that makes sense. I noticed that they where builiding one heck of a terrain park lower on down ....
  24. I have been seeing these "lanes" at the top of the palmer ski area. I have asked several people on the mountain, and no one has an answer... Every time I see them (and they keep "making" new one} I wonder, WTF would you need this shit for... Perhaps some of you oh, so enlightened ones could explain... (I have seen a few trip reports where people camped in them, butthey are at 20Deg of slope. That cant be fun sleeping in...)
×
×
  • Create New...