mountainmatt

Everyone is familiar with the classic routes in the Enchantments: Prussik - west ridge, south face Dragontail - serpentine, backbone w/fin Stuart - north ridge, girth pillar CBR - west face ...and basically anything written up in Nelson and Potterfield. What are some other great routes up there that deserve some traffic?

Your only real concern will be rock fall, bring a helmet, skip the rope.

Wow, nice week in the enchantments for sure! The chimney pitch on the south face of Prussik can be protected using the small crack on the face to the left, but the start you did is way more fun for sure! Nice to see that you got on Sunchips as well (we called it 3 short pitches at 5.8, but pitches definitely could be linked and the 5.8 cruxes are really short). Is the route pretty clean? Are the tree anchors still there?

Thanks! I made the map up in Illustrator. I think people should definitely check the area out, so I made a little map to make sure people found it. I would do some of the hand drawn topos, but alas I would like to keep my day job. We definitely did some brush clearing up there, but more could still be done. If you are heading up and you have some small clippers or a mini hand saw, you might throw them in the pack. Lots of route potential up there if you are looking to put up some FAs...

Here is a little map to help you get there if you are interested...

I didn't take any pics, but I can say that the rock is WAY cleaner than shown in this picture (that pitch is basically moss free except the last 5 feet or so).

Hey CBS, Yeah that was us over on the other side of the tracks. Nice to see some other people checking out the lines up there. After doing the first route, we knew we would be back, so we spent a little time making it easier / possible to walk around. Not perfect, but its a start. We will have to chat next time I see you up there

Hells yeah guys! Way to get on it! How is the descent coming down the backside?

Headed up there today to check out the new area (even though there was some guy blocking the road a mile and half from the trailhead). Not getting an early start, we did "the other side of the tracks." Although the first pitch was a little mossy, p2 and p3 were very clean and offered spectacular climbing. The last two pitches had a little moss, but were mostly clean as well. Some of the other lines are looking like they are getting some travel as well and there is definitely a lot of route potential up there still. Go check it out! Thanks everyone that found the new area and put up some fun lines

Sweet! Time to go get on the dome again. Was the sidewalk mostly dry and pebble free?

Congrats on the summit and the engagement!

Looks like a sweet day out! Never did the Great arch, but it looks a little like Diedre at Squamish.

I doubt there was anyone to our left, as the next routes over are the death chimneys (additionally we never saw or heard another person up there all day, however there were lots of people over by Thin fingers). If there was someone there that we somehow didn't see, the rock fall was in no way intentional and we are sorry if it came close to you (I sure as hell didn't like it coming withing feet of me!)

That was most likely us up on the quarry. We were a team of three and when my friend was seconding he pulled a huge block out that came very close to hitting me down below. We were all ok, but if you are doing any of the routes over the quarry, be careful, there is a lot of loose rock over there.

Although I learned a lot about poodle shaving from your image, this might be a little more helpful.

There is a long running post in the Access section, but here is the short of it: 3 O'clock - road clear to TH, hike is mostly clear Green Giant - road clear till 4WD required section, saw people hiking up there, but I am not sure about trail conditions Exfoliation - road blocked after the campground, clearing will require a saw

Now that is a series of leads to string together! 12b, 13a, 13c, 12b, 12d, 13c, 14a/b, 13c, 13d, 13d, 12d, 14, 14a, 14a, 13c/d, 13+, 12b, 11, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12

We camped at the second campground on the way to Exfoliation dome. When walking out of camp on the way uphill, you hit trees of varying sizes fairly quickly. Would love to see the Exfoliation dome road cleaned up as well, lots of unfinished business up there Thanks to everyone who is helping in the effort!

Six of us headed up on Saturday armed with multiple saws (thanks to alpinefox for the extra saw) and a chainsaw (thanks to cfire for trusting me with his skis, I mean chainsaw). The Forest service (or someone else) cleared through to the 3 O'clock TH for the most part. Since we had already had all the tools and planned on not climbing on Saturday, we went and took most of the trees out on the way to Green giant buttress (others remain once the road becomes 4WD required). The downside? We did not have a chance to clear all the way up to Exfoliation dome. There is still a large amount of dead fall there including several chainsaw required trees. The routes on 3 O'clock are starting to get a descent amount of travel and are cleaning up nicely. Go and get your fill!

Way to get after it! Walking down through the avy debris to the boulder field was certainly not fun though. Glad the it finally was a go for you

Found a nice pair of recently resoled rock shoes at 3 O'clock rock (06/07/09). Drop me a PM if they are yours.

Damn, that fuckin' sucks! Condolences to the family and friends.

Thanks DB

Soft

Bump. No one has anything I can use this weekend? I would prefer to not have to cut trees down with my pocket knife.