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Everything posted by mountainmatt
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Climb for Life $2 Pint Night - April 3rd - Seattle
mountainmatt replied to molly's topic in Events Forum
I am pretty sure the brewmaster Josh will be in the house -
Not sure if this has been mentioned or not... If you are in a situation where you need to blue bag it: Take a plastic grocery bag with handles You can hold the handles to your hips while you do your thing When finished, tie the ends in a knot, and bag it again Dispose as usual It definitely beat having to target a bag and pick it up!
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What are you, a #4 or #5 BD? Valley giant?
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My god man! I have some work you can do here if you are that bored
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To prevent this, I suggest that we start building more roads!
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It was perfect last weekend with almost no seepage (well, lizard was still wet, as always). Rogers corner, BOC, Marginal Karma, JG, etc. were all dry. Hopefully it doesn't rain too much before you head out there
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I am not so sure about the FF and Alien, but you can get trigger repair kits at Feathered Friends. They even have triggers for the old double stem camalots. They have triggers for other cams as well...
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[TR] Index Upper Town Wall - Green Dragon 2/2/2008
mountainmatt replied to racsom's topic in North Cascades
Way to get out there guys! How was the approach? How did the rest of the route look? -
Time to start saving my Clif bar wrappers. http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/02/dress_made_from_food_bar.html
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Hell yeah! The Splatte is awesome stuff. The dome, cynical pinnacle, the bishop! The best part is that there is hardly anyone out there
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I just modified a set of fangs for my Cobras today and they seem to work great. I used the pictures as a rough diagram to get started and then occasionally checked to see how they were fitting. Although it took longer to do this, I did avoid having to use any hot glue. Another thing worth mentioning, you do have to dig out a little bit of a channel to get them to fit (not necessarily obvious from the photos). Thanks Davis for the pics!
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[TR] Lytton/Fraser Canyon - After the Gold Rush bo
mountainmatt replied to G-spotter's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Fucking hilarious -
To what degree is the lack of deaths on A5 routes due to the fact that the climbers are safe versus the fact that only very experienced (or insane) people try them?
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[TR] Snoqualmie Pass - Rumors of Ice #7 12/14/2007
mountainmatt replied to mountainmatt's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
One other note, while the guidebook description was accurate for pitch one, it does not describe pitch 2. In its current state, the route is WI3. -
PM me if you have questions. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/752801#Post752801
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[TR] Snoqualmie Pass - Rumors of Ice #7 12/14/2007
mountainmatt posted a topic in Ice Climbing Forum
Trip: Snoqualmie Pass - Rumors of Ice #7 Date: 12/14/2007 Trip Report: When hiking up near Red Mountain last weekend on the PCT, I happened to run into an ice flow that I had never heard mention of before. In checking the Washington Ice book it mentions: “There is an interesting single pitch climb about 2 miles up the Pacific Crest Trail toward Kendall Peak, at approximately 3800 feet. The route tends to be steep for 20-30 feet and then kicks back for the remainder of the pitch. The route can be done at approximately WI3. Avalanche danger is severe.” The route that I saw appeared to be about 2 pitches long, so I called my friend Stewart up, and we decided that playing hooky to ice climb was a much better idea than actually working. We hit the pass at about 6 AM, and after about an hour we could look up at the route. The route looked bad from below, but we decided to hike up anyways to get a good look. After about another 15 or so, we got to the base. We passed through some avy debris here, and we were both happy that we were wearing our beacons. After looking at the route for a while and drinking some coffee, Stewart decided to give it a go. The first pitch was about 35 meters long, took screws the whole way up (various sizes) and only had one short section where the ice was thin, luckily the climbing was easy at that point. We belayed off a set of small trees on the left. Surprisingly, the second section of the climb looked pretty good once we actually got up there. Not being as strong of a leader, I passed the lead to Stewart and he headed up again. This pitch was definitely harder than the first, and had a section about 10 feet long that was “fragile” (left variation). For future parties, you could head to the right side which appeared to be a bit thicker. The entire pitch took screws the whole way. At the top, Stewart headed over to the climbers right and belayed off a nice big tree. For descent, we rappelled off a large tree on the climbers right (single 60 meter would work), hiked down about 30 feet, and rappelled off another large tree on the climbers right (to use the same anchor would require a single 70 meter rope). The route overall was pretty fun (definitely good for the crap normally found at Snoq). Additionally, the flow was growing while we were there (several of the screws had to be chipped out since a half inch of ice formed before they could be cleaned). Perhaps the flow will get better? (if so, future parties could attack the last 20 vertical feet perhaps?) Rough topo: Looking up from the PCT: The ice: Approximate route: Stewart on pitch 1: Gear Notes: Used a variety of screws (short, med, long). 70 meter rope or double 50/60s required if using our anchors. Approach Notes: Park at the Snoqualmie parking lot, hike about 2 miles on the PCT, look to your right once you enter into a big open area with boulders. -
Just found some good stuff at Snoq. Pass, TR to follow later tonight... 2 pitch, WI 3, right off the PCT, ~2 miles in
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Pretty scary... http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1733591;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=25
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Correction: Problems Other: 98 Bitch: 1
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http://www.struttergear.com/products/CLUCKING_INFOPAGE.html
