When I first started climbing I had someone drop me from the top of a short TR problem (~30 feet) to the deck. I had reached the top of the route and got the usual, "I've got you" call from the belayer. As I leaned back, I started running backwards until I hit the deck. I was lucky; since I was a new climber, I had a helmet on and I landed in the dirt (no jagged rock pile). If I had been about 2-3 feet to the left, I would have hit a nice sharp 2 foot high rock. Good times!
Thanks for the putting up the drytooling wall this year! It was a great way to mix it up at the gym and was particularly fun doing it at night Hopefully it shows up next season?
I had my book taken in a similar scenario at Tieton last year. It sucks for me as I am one of those people that puts notes down for each climb that I do (a climbing journal or sorts). Bastards! Their uppance will come!
Not sure if this has been mentioned or not...
If you are in a situation where you need to blue bag it:
Take a plastic grocery bag with handles
You can hold the handles to your hips while you do your thing
When finished, tie the ends in a knot, and bag it again
Dispose as usual
It definitely beat having to target a bag and pick it up!
It was perfect last weekend with almost no seepage (well, lizard was still wet, as always). Rogers corner, BOC, Marginal Karma, JG, etc. were all dry. Hopefully it doesn't rain too much before you head out there
I am not so sure about the FF and Alien, but you can get trigger repair kits at Feathered Friends. They even have triggers for the old double stem camalots. They have triggers for other cams as well...
I have an old A5/NF double portaledge, but recently discovered that the fly was destroyed by mildew. Does anybody have an extra one they are looking to sell? PM me.
I just modified a set of fangs for my Cobras today and they seem to work great. I used the pictures as a rough diagram to get started and then occasionally checked to see how they were fitting. Although it took longer to do this, I did avoid having to use any hot glue. Another thing worth mentioning, you do have to dig out a little bit of a channel to get them to fit (not necessarily obvious from the photos).
Thanks Davis for the pics!
To what degree is the lack of deaths on A5 routes due to the fact that the climbers are safe versus the fact that only very experienced (or insane) people try them?