Dan_Miller

Thanks Fred, It's useful to know that if the weather clears a bit and I drive all the way to the Silverstar gate I can tour up the Creek without having to ski, boot (or snowmobile) the miles from the Mazama closure gate. That's quite beneficial information to my way of thinking. As you said, we'll see how long it remains that way (hwy maintenance budgets being what they are).

Just as I suspected: Here's WSDOT message at 1:22pm, 11/21/11: WSDOT has closed the North Cascades Highway for the season. Snow depth at Washington Pass is 30 inches, and the forecast through Wednesday calls for up to 40 more inches. Snow accumulations at depths of 50 to 60 inches make avalanche chutes unstable. North Cascade Hwy SR20 11/21/2011 8:48:08 AM Temperature: Not Available Elevation Feet:5477 Elevation Meters:1669 Restrictions Eastbound: Closed for the season Restrictions Westbound: Closed for the season Conditions: North Cascade Hwy is closed for the season between milepost 148 Early Winters Gate and milepost 178. Weather:

Yep, it's that time of year again. Here's the first of the season's Avalanche Statement from USFS/NWAC'S Kenny Kramer: Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center Seattle Washington 1314 PM PST Tue Nov 15 2011 Statement Updated Tuesday, November 15, 2011 Next Significant Storm Expected Wednesday and Thursday About 6 inches up to 2 feet of snowfall accumulated in the Olympics and near and west of the crest in the Cascades during storms on Friday and over the weekend. In most places the snow was still anchored by terrain and vegetation. But a couple of small triggered avalanches were reported at Sauk Mountain and Mt Baker via Turns All Year on Saturday and Sunday. Cracking and whomping was also reported from White Pass on Sunday via Turns All Year. This seems to have been caused by new snow over crusts from late last week over faceted snow on a smooth ground surface. So there were also areas of unstable snow. Persistent convergence zones affected Snoqualmie Pass Monday where an additional 6 inches of snow fell. The convergence shifted north over Stevens Pass early Tuesday depositing up to 4 to 6 inches of snow. The next strong storm is indicated by computer models to cross the Northwest on Wednesday with orographic showers persisting into Thursday. This should cause another period of strong winds and heavy snow at moderate and higher elevations. Snow levels are expected to begin relatively low through much of Wednesday with a period of rising freezing levels late Wednesday and early Wednesday night to affect mainly the Snoqualmie Pass area with a change to rain before cooler air again lowers snow levels overnight Wednesday. The upcoming storm should deposit another 1 to 2 feet of snow from early Wednesday through later Thursday along with periods of strong and shifting crest level winds. These weather conditions Wednesday into Thursday are likely to build fairly widespread new soft and wind slab layers on lee or other slopes, especially at higher elevations with less terrain and vegetative anchoring. This danger should be greatest on slopes with perennial snow or a smooth ground surface. Similar conditions should be seen in unopened ski areas that are not yet performing regular avalanche control. The Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center normally begins full winter operations when there is significant snow cover at moderate and lower elevations. We will continue to issue weather and avalanche statements as conditions warrant until there is a change to full winter operations. Let’s all have a safe and enjoyable winter! Kramer/US Forest Service NW Weather and Avalanche Center

Just as I suspected: North Cascades Pass - 11/21/2011 8:48:08 AM North Cascade Hwy SR20 11/21/2011 8:48:08 AM Temperature: Not Available Elevation Feet:5477 Elevation Meters:1669 Restrictions Eastbound: Closed for the season Restrictions Westbound: Closed for the season Conditions: North Cascade Hwy is closed for the season between milepost 148 Early Winters Gate and milepost 178. Weather: ________________________________________________________________ Whether it will reopen again before final seasonal closure is anybody's guess. Here's the official message from WSDOT's Jeff Adamson: Hi all, Here's the news release that's going out in about an hour... SR 20 North Cascades Highway temporarily closing Heavy snow is forecast and conditions will be reassessed on Monday OKANOGAN – The North Cascades Highway’s winter closure gates swing closed at 8 p.m. tonight in advance of forecast heavy snow storms over the next several days. Road conditions, avalanche danger and weather forecasts for Thanksgiving week will be reassessed on Monday to determine if SR 20 can be reopened. The National Weather Service is predicting up to 22 inches of snow by Thursday morning with more fronts bringing more snow through the weekend. WSDOT maintenance crews have been working around the clock since Friday plowing and sanding the 3 to 5 inches of snow that has fallen each day since then. This morning at Washington Pass, 4 inches of new snow on the pavement greeted the dawn with more than 20 inches accumulated on the shoulders. The highway closed on December 1, last year. The 37 mile winter closure zone begins seven miles east of Diablo Dam at milepost 134 on the west side of Rainy Pass (4,855’) to nine miles west of Mazama at milepost 171 below Washington Pass ( 5,477’). Last spring’s May 23 reopening was the second latest in the highway’s 39 year history. It typically opens between the last week in March and the first week in May. The earliest opening ever was March 10, 2005. One drought year, four years after the highway first opened in 1976, it remained open all winter. ...what will they find on Monday? Hard to say, but I think I'd have a back up plan ready, if I was planning to use the NCH for Thanksgiving... Jeff Adamson jeff.adamson@wsdot.wa.gov 509.667.2815 North Cascades Pass - 11/15/2011 3:50:29 PM North Cascade Hwy SR20 11/15/2011 3:50:29 PM Temperature: 19 °F Elevation Feet:5477 Elevation Meters:1669 Restrictions Eastbound: No restrictions Restrictions Westbound: No restrictions Conditions: Compact snow and ice on the roadway. SR20 The North Cascades Highway will be closing at milepost 178, Early Winters Gate, tonight at 8pm in advance of forecast heavy snow storms over the next several days. Weather: Scattered clouds

WSDOT has closed (at this point on a temporary basis only) Chinook and Cayuse Passes secondarily to the ongoing snowfall and avalanche concerns. More info can by gleaned by going to WSDOT's website.

The yearly 'Johnson Cabin' closure spot, until they gate at the gravel pit (aka Eldorado climbers path).

Now I'll never be able to consume another Cliff Bar. They've sort of been a mainstay even without the added protein. I guess meal worms must eat as well.

I stand somewhat corrected, on the new hybrid AT/Telemark boots (tech fitting compatible), in light of the comments directly above this post. Lacking the duckbill, cramponing as ilookeddown indicates probably isn't much of a concern in climbing the sorts of terrain you're likely to be attempting in a randonee boot anyway. It may be best if you're attempting to become a randonee skier to stick to a strictly AT/Randonee boot. FWIW I'm currently skiing the DYNAFIT ZZERO4 GREEN MACHINE TF, and a pair of BD Methods. Certainly look into the DYNAFIT TLT 5 PERFORMANCE TF SKI or DYNAFIT TLT 5 MOUNTAIN TF-X SKI boots for reportedly the best climbing and skiing performance. Ask Dane Burns (or visit coldthistle.com) about these boots as I've no direct experience with either. Numerous regular posters on this forum do however. Best of luck in your ski/boot/binding quest. There's quite an array of worthwhile choices out there at the present time. Now when I started,...

No question, that model; the TX Pro is a telemark boot. They are not a rigid boot and are intended for free heel skiing. I can't imagine they'd be great for frontpointing with crampons on them, but then I've always been a randonee skier and eschew the telemark at all costs. Like Bronco said check out the offerings from Dynafit and perhaps Garmont's AT boots, possibly the Maestrale.

It does appear that there are lines (great lines, even if ephemeral) yet to climb. Way to do'er guys!

Very fine photo work indeed! It is Larch time, isn't it.

Integral Designs Dolomitti Parka, a fine Canadian made product.

I strongly suspect he's still part way up there!

You perservered and did your best, little more you can ask of yourselves. It's a great route in decent conditions. The beauty of that climb as you know only too well at this point is it will still be there. It's up to you now to plan for and head up there again. As Wayne wisely said you decidedly made the correct call, the weather being what it was. You get gold stars for rigorous attitudes! That's exactly what'll get you up the route at some future point. Thanks for the info concerning the closure of the road, I wasn't aware of the fact they regularly do that in the autumn.

Hey PMS (Jim) thanks for the great demystification rope chart! Much appreciated.

Wise choice with the 50L! The 70L is for all intents and purposes an expedition backpack. Now's the time to start winnowing out the excess and extraneous gear.

To my way of thinking at least, Josh you did exactly the right thing here. As I nearly always say to you, 'keep at it'. Another great compilation of TR's!

Another vote for the BD Couloir for alpinism. A little heavier choice might be the BD Momentum AL where one might have to accomplish some hanging belays, as well as providing a bit more comfort in falls. Both of these BD offerings are reasonably priced.

Wow. The other unclimbed fin of the rocket ship preparing to take off has now been ascended. I vividly recall staring up at it (during the brief times it would peak through the clouds) for over two weeks in 1979 while camped directly underneath it. Way to perservere all summer while awaiting an acceptable weather window. It can get nasty and stay that way on the Stikine for weeks or more at a time, even in summer. Excellent job fella's!

If the Lowa's truly fit your particular feet properly, the Mountain Expert's will accomplish what your stated aims are (and likely much more). I liked them enough to seriously consider them (but the Lowa's were not a proper fitting boot for my feet). I ended up with the Scarpa Triolet Pros to fit my foot shape.

CC.com is truly a public service dear friends!

What fortunate children. Be sure and let them know just how lucky they were as infants when they get a little older! Have fun.

Speaking of bears in upper Fisher Creek, about five years ago we were hanging out before ascending another very loose gulley up to the Silent Lakes and saw far and away the largest black bear I've ever encounted in the Park (in many years of exploration there dating back to the early 1970's) We followed it with the small field monocular for quite some time whilst it grazed on the abundant huckleberries. I got a couple of photos of it with just a 35mm lens, so from our distance the photos don't really do it justice. It was likely a very large male, quite dark in color, and just kept eating. I was so impressed, with it's size that I even went back to the Ranger at the desk in Marblemount on the drive home and told the on duty ranger to inform Kelly Bush of our wonderous sighting. To this day I feel very fortunate to have seen such a big bear (over the years I've seen/encountered many) in the Park. No doubt King of Fisher Creek.

Entertaining TR of a route that's most probably not done too often. Yep, it's a fairly loose rubble pile for the most part, (likely we were off the best, most solid route, as Jason so indicates the E Ridge might be the preferable line of ascent) pretty much like the rest of the Ragged Ridge Peaks, decidedly helmet terrain with any more than one in the party. But hey it's one of the WA 100 highest. I know I won't be back up it after my ascent many years ago. Fine photos of upper Fisher Creek Basin, a cool place and the way up to the Silent Lakes, in additon to the last place anyone killed a grizzly bear in what has now become NOCA.

Luckily you got down. Losing one is bad (many of us have done so) but losing two is really adding insult to injury. Best of luck on some sort of retreival Val! Why not try and get ahold of Larry Goldie or Jeff Ward at North Cascades Mountain Guides in Mazama. Those guys and others with their guide service are around there as much as anyone.