Hendershot

The guy at REI told me this is how it works.

Thyroid disorder is the modern day equivilant of "big boned"

Wasn't Grivel North America just the US distributor? For us consumers, it will just affect the availibility of grivel products.

PM sent

Just the first pitch? To clairify- I read the 4th item as a two part question. What do you feel comfortable leading and secondly the hardest route I have done. I led the first pitch but not the third pitch which is rated higher.

Off the top of my head and based on previous experience. 1) 6'2", 190 lbs 2) 2 minutes 3) 6 pull-ups (no kipping) 4) WI3+, Icy BC Lilooet I'll have to edit this post when I get off work and actually try this test using my tools.

Palin, 44, who's in her first term as governor, is a pioneering figure in Alaska, the first woman and the youngest person to hold the state's top political job. Palin has focused on energy and natural resources policy during her short stint in office, and she is known for her support of drilling in the Alaska National Wildlife Refuge, a position opposed by McCain but supported by many grass-roots Republicans. Her husband is Todd Palin, an oil production operator on Alaska's North Slope. http://www.cnn.com/2008/POLITICS/08/29/palin.republican.vp.candidate/index.html

If anything #0 is worth keeping.

"consent not necessary"

Well done fellas. I think my partner and i ran into you guys at the trailhead Subday morning on the way out of our failed attempt and as two of you were taking a well deserved rest before driving home.

It's only my first year as a member of the AAC, but I thought a copy of the Accidents in North America report was sent to members with the AAJ.

Thank God they are ok.

Presidential Library The GEORGE W. BUSH PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY is now in the planning stages. The Library will include: The Weapons of Mass Destruction Room, which no one has yet been able to find. The Hurricane Katrina Room, which is still under construction. The Alberto Gonzales Room, where you won't be able to remember anything. The Texas Air National Guard Room, where you don't even have to show up. The Walter Reed Hospital Room, where they don't let you in. The Guantanamo Bay Room, where they don't let you out. The National Debt Room, which is huge and has no ceiling. The Tax Cut Room with entry restricted only to the wealthy. The Economy Room, which is in the toilet. The Iraq War Room. After you complete your first tour, they make you to go back for a second, third, fourth, and sometimes fifth tour. The Dick Cheney Room, in the famous undisclosed location, complete with shotgun gallery. The Environmental Conservation Room, still empty, but very warm. The Supreme Court Gift Shop, where you can buy an election. The Decider Room complete with dart board, magic 8-ball, Ouija board, dice, coins, and straws. Additionally, the museum will have an electron microscope to help you locate the President's accomplishments. Admission: Republicans - free; Democrats - $1000 or 3 Euros

Reminds me of the time I was drinking underage and the cop had me pour out almost a case of beer. He didn't give me an MIP, but it was just torture!

Simple. I went up 30 meters (placing screws). Stopped at the midway point and set up a belay, anchored in. Untied my end and lowered the tools. Then pulled up the slack, tied in again and had the second clean the route.

P.S. sorry to piggy back on another TR, twice.

Ok, so I took my own advice and went for the Kautz glacier route again, this time to carry over to descend the DC. Going without a tent or bivy and discriminating on every piece of clothing and gear, I went from a 50 liter pack to a 30L. Not encouraged by Friday night's rain & Saturday's overcast, my climbing partner brought his bivy. Starting Sat morning we left Paradise and camped at the same location on the Wapatowey Cleaver. We were above the fog/clouds so precipitation wasn't a problem. We hit the snooze and got moving at 2am. We saw a party camped below at the turtle, but didn't see them later that night/day on the route. We each had a tool and a piolet. I led the ice pitch and broke it into two pitches to lower the tools to John. The tools got stuck lowering and it became a time consumer to rap down to free them, use a ropeman to get back up to belay. On the second half of the pitch, I used just my ax & one tool to avoid another lowering ordeal. The crevasses around 11-12k ft were not as frequent as I remembered, but some seriously large gapers. We managed to find a boot path that led us to the top of the Kautz. I was running out of gas on the last bit to Columbia crest. Zip fizz to the rescue! Amazing what 41,000% of your daily value of Vitamin B12 does for you. We reached to summit at 10:50 am. Headed down to Muir at 11:30 am. Before descending the DC, another climber in a bicycle helmet asked me to help him with the straps for his crampons. I said, "Well for starters, they are on backwards". He said, "I got up here with them this way just fine and I'm not going to change the secure one". I walked away since he didn't really want my advice while my perplexed partner tried to help him and figure out how you mess up something as easy as putting on crampons. Before we left, they asked us what time it was. I asked myself how you could climb Rainer without a watch. It sure helps to know your rate of ascent and certain details like how much daylight you have left, but whatever. Soapbox aside, we arrived at Camp Muir at 2:00, left at 2:30, back to Paradise at 4:00 pm. Didn't recharge my camera, so no pics this TR.

Sterling might be able to custom it for you.

I owe you guys a TR for my 19-20th foray. Spent the night on the side of the road Friday night to get a good start Sat from Paradise. Zero traffic on the approach. Muir was at capacity. Camped at 10,400 below Hazard, on the Wapowtey Cleaver, well out of the way of the garbage dump. The weather was so nice, we enjoyed an open bivy with views of Adams & Helens. Here is the Kautz in all her glory. Sunday morn, we got moving at 2:30 am, much later than we should have in hind sight. Rapped the short section, crossed the garbage chute and began simul-climbing. Reached the steeper section, where we pitched out one (4 screws & running belay on top). Around 12,000 ft, it was noticably more crevassed. There were lots of penitentes (spell check anyone?) which made it hard to spot the gappers until you were right next to them. At 7:30 am / 13,400 ft, our rate slowed down significantly. Considering the time it would take to tag the summit, break, and head down to the crevassed area, we began to be worried the snow bridges we crossed wouldn't be as solid on the way back. We contented ourselves with reaching the end of the "technical difficulties" and descended. In hindsight, we could have started earlier, done a carry over to descend the DC route, or just spend more time at Lynnwood Crossfit to do it in better time. Punched a leg through a snow bridge on the way down, but used my third leg to arrest. Rappeled off an ice block, backed by a V-thread. Made it down to Paradise lot to meet our ride at 5:30 pm, only 30 min late.

I demo'd a pair at the Bozeman Ice Fest because they secured my heel better than the Phantom Lite. Still, I ended up losing my big toenail between the cold temps and bashing it against ice. My friend had a pair that held up solid for a couple years. No complaints. Different stokes for different stokes, I guess. Happy with the K4S and will look at Kayland's Super Ice when it's time to replace Sportiva's discontinued model. Kayland's Apex XT is simmilar to the Freney. Still trying to get the fit dialed on those as well.

You can find cartrige fuel at Joes (formerly G.I. Joes). They carry cascade designs full line.

Thanks Ben! I'll return the favor & post my TR by Monday.