crazedmaniac

that is NOT primal scream. It is JUST another EASY way up. Primal Scream was 'named' because of a host of reasons, by way of Ken Strong. P.S. is a way up that i had been looking at for over 25 yrs before Ken and i did it, ALL solo free, the very first time. The first 1.5 OR so pitches of the this FIRST and hopefully LAST bolted route on the south wall kinda uses the start of Primal Scream. Where this goes left, Primal goes straight up staying on the ridge all the way up. It is VERY EASY and can be very easy to protect where you want to, OLD SCHOOL way with nuts. aka ... VERY EASY (dont' need big balls). I have done WAY over a dozen 'ways up' on the south wall. Several, where this '26' bolted route goes. Still wondering why it is named skena26.... do 'you' know why Ken named it Primal Scream? great story ...

nice Mark!!! have done this more than a dozen times. (starting and exiting different ways tho.) Going down one of the walls to the north of Bowl in alley can be very exciting, and challenging. I couldn't IMAGINE doing what you did with a rope tho... that would be very time consuming. Have had a lot of fun taking huge packs with mass beer and food to camp along the way, about 1/2 of the times. That is a VERY LONG DAY, with a rope out... KUDOS!!!!! my 'best' trip was up illusion wall, then down zips wall. Have started from our property, and came down zips or illusion many times. Going up Primal Scream, (south wall)then to the top, then down the ridge just to the north of Daddy without breaking the ropes out was very fun also. (were all the bolts and hangers ,drill bits, hammer... still on top of the ridge just south of the top of Daddy??? looked like a bear had strung and spread em out when i found em, just as they were starting to work on the route, many ,many years ago) haven't been up there in 3 yrs now.

(Daring-A-Ton, nice) I also hear the sounds of rock drilling from the 'big boulder basin' at the n face of 3 fingers a lot lately. t is a great place for the hot days. Sure there will be a lot of highly protected very fine climbs there soon. The trip to the top of the basin, with Craig lakes is a super bonus, also. Have done a lot of traverse trips and circle routes there that were always rewarding. Just watch out for the black hole of aluminum and parts. t can suck you in, and you lose time, wondering. finally spent alot of time there figuring out just what happened, by climbing all over the rock and finding embedded parts. Seeing the 86 shortly after it got spread out from just the impact, helped a lot also. Amazing how time and nature (and climbers) can spread it out even more. Like the big boulder in the basin. it used to be tilted much more to the wall, with a huge cave directly under it, complete with table and stash spots. It is completely covered up now with the new tilt, (mostly from late 90,s) complete with hangers for testing your friction ability's. Never thought i would see that! We used to have a lot of fun climbing on the "big boulder", that i first heard about from Ken Carpenter, in the late 60,s. Daring ton rocks!!!

Sounds like Jonas and you had to many .. pinners, EH? funny read, and you should be glad the place didn't take your rope too!(rapping, rope eating place) Gone are the days of camping and parking close to the giant. This place would have made a really great campground before they cut all the GIANT OLD GROWTH fir and cedar from this basin, with climbers coming from all around, to 'pay' to camp here, for all of time. (instead of the one time timber sale) . Even The whole upper clear creek valley..EH? super pic Matt! Witch Dr. looks really 'good', from that angle and time of year. have some shots of the basin from very early 70,s with stumps and clear cuts from top of blubbery,green and 3 o clock. will post em here soon.

Always good to read about, a new awareness of someone, or, a view of something that is always there in the background, and now working for a huge benefit of someone. ('used to be', what climbing was all about ... lead, protect, share. AND, one of the MAIN reasons i got into designing and building mountaineering/big wall gear, after experiencing the opposite in electronics engineering) Wither it be a helicopter or a group working together to accomplish a good goal of helping someone. I personally have a standing order, of no one, to ever call for 'professional' rescue of my ass, in the mtn.s, if my friends can not get it done. Have seen others die in trying to rescue someone, and i don't think i could ever live with knowing someone got hurt while rescuing me. LOVED reading your well written report and all-ways good to read about otherS helping ... OTHERs. We need MORE of that, every where, in all ways. ESP the opposite of being in the mnts, like driving on I-5.

very well written! thanks for the SHARE!

just because it doesn't have a bolt, don't ever assume your the ... 'first'. Way back in the late 70,s and 80,s there was a new way of climbing, because of the new thin removable stuff, other than pitons, that made a 'new' style of climbing called .. free climbing. NOT SHOWING ANY SIGNS OF any one climbing there ... Bob Buckley used to get me to drive all the way over there, just to add one bolt on some route he was working on, before i got him his own hilti, during the late 80,s and early 90,s. This was before he found 'vantage', a really old 'secret' place i used to go to in the mid 70,s to hang glide, or rock climb. He went crazy over there with the bolts, then came the 'guide book' .. then came the ..... looks like your having fun.. that is the most important part!

did some climbing down there in 74,75. Nothing had names then .... and certainly, no guide books. Was a very different then. as in a shuttle??? and all the buildings in the back ground?? thanks for the memory jolt!

Seems to me you might want to be investing in a parachute, if you are to keep this kinda 'above the huge cliffs' skiing going ... Ive spent plenty of cold winter days on the ice above em, and the cliffs below were always a factor on our minds, with crampons on .. NOT SKIS... AGAIN ... WOW!!! you have one of those gopro wide angle camera yet ????

gota say ... every night since i read this posting (and of course, imagined myself skiing down here), it has affected my dreams ... have had some wild dreams about being here, and on zips wall, mixed with my 'real' times being here/there ... guess you gota have been there, to know. AGAIN, this was a very, EXTREMEly lucky day for you .... dude!!!! WOW. IT HAS TO have AFFECTed YOUR dreams ... ??? you and alpine Dave (another amazing climb)have gotten into my mind ... KIDS!

sooo, you skied the east face down??? The 45deg. couloir? what about right above the big boulder in the basin, AND DIRECTLY BELOW THE EXIT OF THE 45 DEG.? ..(used to be called big boulder basin in the late 50,s & 60-90,s...) WOW, way to go for it!!!!! i have spent a lot of time (days&nights) on the rock, on the N.east face... WALL OF DEATH!

WOWski!!!! i concur with all of the above ....

tell ya what Tyson, Get 'em' to tell 'us', why its called skeena 26 III, and why Chris (Mr.hard core mountain man) called another route he bolted up, on illusion, Skitzo?, and i will 'post' a all of lines above hooter cave ( on 'dikin around slabs', and 'first slab')sooner than i would normally... and more, cause i don't normally do that kinda stuff. I love to tell story's tho... brings back fun memory's, and reminds me of excellent times with good friends. I used to do a lot of 'guiding' and taking people up to Squire Walls for their very first time climbing on REAL ROCK! Several did what im sure were first accents(leading)on their very first day of climbing. Many pounded/placed their first pitons up there. And ok, shapp, found some more pics for you, you might like. Im Starting to tell story's with my pics here. (like i do on my show and tell pages .. or Face Book). Wish everyone did, I see some really super cool and great photos here, but NO description or comments about em!! The south slabs can be VERY dangerous ALL spring, and into summer, with snow and ice stored above. that's one reason, why we spent most of our time on the ridges. Have seen huge amounts of snow with rocks and large trees/bushes go by us before, that was hidden in the shade, or tucked in behind little gulleys, and in the trees, even in july. Sounds like they got real lucky up there, this past year ... The snow coming down, causes other stuff to be dislodged, as in tons of rocks, that go all over the place. A helmet is NOT going to do you any good being blasted by 100,s of rocks. Have seen literally 100,s of tons of rock come down thru the GIANT FUNNEL called chicken shit gulley, MANY TIMES!!! There is a huge place above it, and it all seems to funnel down thru it. I wouda named it something along those ... lines. Couda. Shouda. Good story why they named it that tho .... Underwear man.

great bird strike photo! what is the spread on those tips? owl? looks like a big hawk. Spent some time at the ski area in early 80,s, couple times. What a weird place. Had no idea that's where super rich guys went for other 'things', than skiing, till then. Lot of empty shells walking around ... You guys don't look like one of 'them'.

WILL POST IT SOON, TYSON. only because there are so many bolts there now. And will post the lines that i have placed bolts on too. Guessing you are talking about 'dinking around' slabs? Went up there last year with some very young kids, only to have them see me get all pissy finding big shinny hangers & bolts every where ..... some where i used to place my feet. OR obviously drilled, hanging from rope.

posted a few pics here with some quick words, tyson. THANKS for not posting one of the previous 4 pics Matt!!!! I really appreciate it. (can read why on the words with the pic). If some one down loaded one of them, i ask that you not share it, or please, just delete it. After i uploaded them, and saw it, i saw where i had left some out, so did it again. Had problems every time. Wrote some words, ea. time too. Decided on this one, cause that's how ken would like it. The orange lines are his. In doing so last night, i figured i had gone up these slabs 22 different ways. All spread out, from west to east. Really don't see any reason for bolts here, (shallow angle, plenty of cracks and bushes..) before, but now that i am old and injured, would be nice. Don't like the word nice , either. (Not Implied Correct Emotion) I just have serious issues with it, because of the already mentioned reasons. Its a personal thing. I really don't see 'good' or 'bad' any more. Just ..IS. Still have likes, and dislikes tho.... I would like to know why it is called SKEENA 26 III ???? did i miss that part??? There must be about 30 different ways you can go thru this area, in just a short width. We were always choosing the way by, best cracks for fast climbing, Able to place pro where steep, rope drag, and a sturdy belay. Did many, many pitches thru here, with no pro the whole 150' to 190'. Just running the rope out, to get something in, then belay the other guy up, so he could chose his own way. aka, not having to go same way, to pull the pro. Was a lot of fun. there have been a cpl times, we were wondering if we were the first to come thru 'this area' on squire walls, only to find a sling around a tree, that was killing it, or grown into the bark, from a previous rap. ( found every owner for all of them, only a few old pitons remain unknown) Only in the very polished, no cracks and VERY steep area's,(say aid?) was i positive that we were the first. It is a very interesting feeling to have the feel of being ... first thru, or wondering if you were. Bolts there are a sure ... sign. Or ... lines on some beta ....

yes! you are soooo right Matt! I got so caught up in squire walls Black hole, we bought 40 acres at the base, so i would have a way in, cause the way the future was going with gates and road demolitions, and destruction... or what ever nice word they call it now days... AND !!!! I really should be thanking them for putting bolts in, for me, so i can do it again. it is harder to find young bucks now days that want to run it out like i did. AND i am no longer able to climb like that! Hell, was a bitch back then. So many times, the '5.12/13' climber would come into the store, with all his power, and pumped up chest, and i used to get so excited to have someone to climb with me up there, only to have them totally freeze up, and start to cry or complain about their feet hurting and basically being scared with no rope! Telling them not to look down never worked! It was pure stupid of me to down climb, all those times, to the freezed up, 'not so powerful person now' to get a rope to him. This happened more than 6 times. Then i was pure scared, and sweaty hands, cause if he fell/slipped, many, to many times, he woulda taken me with him! Coulda. Shoulda never done it, looking back, cause they always said they could do it, cause "this is so easy" (not like town wall or the gym), "low angle" and "beginner stuff", "no problems", were some of the words i used to hear.. I was Never any good at down climbing really smooth stuff, with a pack on. Ken had to rescue me one time up here, cause i got strafed by 5 ravens (2 died doing it) by climbing above me and drilling a bolt to lower a rope to me, after i freezed up. They totally scared me!!! AND, Primal Scream, the name says it all! Have seen a few deaths from falls, in the mountains, but the first time i heard, and saw my friend free falling (rapped off end of rope)below me, yelling the death scream, will never forget it! Was pure primal. Thats how it got its name, i didn't name it. Not really into naming stuff up there. just down loaded the nice pic here, and drew in some lines on this wall that i have done over the years. Sure i got most of them. Now to try and upload it here...

sorry, not a first accent. (Maybe the exact way you went tho, cause we didn't put in bolts out on the smooth polished rock, for belays, like im guessing you did) looks like you placed bolts on the first couple 'pitches' of 'primal scream' too! I was hoping that this side of the wall would never be bolted, cause you can find nice chicken heads to safely climb/rest on, and places to stuff gear in for belays, if needed, if you just make short or long ones, and/or go a little 'off route' for a belay. Was always wishing that primal scream could/would BE always be bolt free! IT GIVES IT A DIFFERENT FEEL. As in, being out in the mountains. Deciding which way to go... Primal Scream was the 'jewel' on this wall !!! It goes straight up, staying on the ridge, where you went to the left. I have gone to the left, the same place that you probably did too. It naturally draws you that way. Cleaner rock. A fine line that i had looked at for over 20 years before we did it. (climbing up to jet tower and Salish, and craig lakes, and camp 86) Ken and i did it all solo free on our first time, in first part of nov., about 15 years ago! Looking at the pic from John S, ( i tried to get pics from Dave so i could mark out lines for him, about 4 years ago, when i met him up at my property at the base of squire wall. I have probably climbed all the 'easy' stuff on this wall, in a period of about 15 years time. (I have approached Olympus ledge from 6 different ways, as an example) We used to always climb a different way, and i have done this south wall(s)/ridges about 20 times, all, different ways. most all, solo free. Oh well. so goes the dreams, of a dreamer .... there are plenty of unfinished routes to the north of zips wall, thru the bowlin alley, and the ridge wall(s)to the north of that. Thats a huge wall that needs bolts to make good safe fun lines.

told D.J. that someday there were going to be "bolts here" and we could just rap off here coming down from craigs, instead of the traverse across the glaciers (which he never took crampons for, and scared me with), and the long way down the steep rib thru the tree. He laughed at me and said never. "no one is ever going to bush wack this way to just climb this". Ran into him this week, went out to see if he still had pics of us climbing here in 85/86. Was the first time Iv,e talked to him in about 8 yrs. He now travels the world seeing everything he can, still hunting for strange rocks and stuff. We spent 5 days climbing on Salish that turned into a dangerous mineral, crystal dig and lot of rock moving. Gota know the mountain man. i know what you mean about the water falls, and the quality of the rock. I loved it. so much so i 'doe-nated' many pins to rapping and sinking in hard (looked like a long way to next, or a fall ahead) to climbing here. Didnt like being in 'the valley' tho in morn and evening. There used to be MASS GOATS there coming thru from the west side of three fingers heading over to clear creek. Haven't seen them in over 15 yrs now. ??? saw quite a few heads being hiked out over the years tho..... Sounds like chris and YOU, got the Squire Creek valley bug too! finally! ITS A BAD ONE! warning... no known treatment known. nice going tyson!!!!

i have some sweet pics of the "MAN", PETE DORISH, up there doing work, on/in one of my wall tents, that black-die-mounds (not the MAN, comrade anchor) copied 20+ years later .... They used to hang on the walls in the 'store' in lynwood. I think Pete has done a lot of work up there! He (Pete) also has done similar badass routes on Mt. Index. Very steep and extremely intimidating.

wow!

"We did not cut corners and brought the following items:" i couldnt' even think of going up rainier with sooo little! Perhaps that's because Ive been up there before, and saw the weather come in very fast, unexpected, and that changed everything!!! (a white out for 2 days once) If that would have happened to you above Muir, and you took a wrong 'corner', or turn, with so little gear, wow! Perhaps that is what the others are 'bent up' about. I feel we should be able to do what we want in the mountains, (as long as it doesn't affect someone else) ... including die! It s just that, that is a park, so dieing there takes on a whole new meaning, as to search and rescue! THAT SAID.... WOW! what a amazing trip you pulled off. That is REALLY BEING IN SHAPE!! I couldn't even imagine skiing down from the top, to the cleaver!!! ( ive only climbed rainer in winter, as i found the 'summer' crowds are just to much for me) I still feel one of the most amazing feats in the north west, was the 24hr accent of north peak of 3 fingers, from the north!!! That is true mountain climbing, starting from the valley floor, ( not driving 1/2 way up the mountain) and true route finding! Even their decent was an amazing feat!!!

NICE!!! Real sweet report!!! thanks a lot. yes, the pickets can kick your ass!!!!

AND..UH.. check out the shoes she has on... light weight hikers...

well, you gota realize, all my climbs, on squire, are from the ground up. It is very intimidating to be drilling a bolt or placing 'marginal gear', standing on something very marginal, with your last bolt/piece, being 60 to 90+ ft below you, (wearing everything but the kitchen sink),cause of the angle, of the dangle..aka, serious cheese grater!!!! This part of Illusion wall is my favorite, because of the chicken heads, GOOD CRACKS, and, STRONG bushes and small trees! I figure i have climbed about 35+ different 'pitches' on Illusion wall. I lead all but about 8 or 10. About 1/2 of those was with the part mountain goat, Ken Strong. He could climb solo free with me. only a few europen climbers would do that with me, some new muscle heads, and rock jocks, who didn't know any better... cause they were new. After climbing back thru again, we would add more bolts, because of the PUCKER factor, and i then could climb much faster, knowing i was only going to fall 50 or 80 ft, instead of death, OR wishing i was dead, cause i would be majorly messed up.(and i did kinda hide a lot of my bolts, because of the rock fall/better protection for the bolt... and aesthetics, AND they are little button heads of 3/16 or a huge 1/4") which gets me to the pic ON DICK RIDGE. i lost my inner ear 'balance', when i broke my neck for the 2nd time, ( i have no balance now, ask anyone who has hiked with me in the dark) and i had a 4+ day pack on also. I was standing on a good little ledge,as you can see, but to turn around, and look down, thru the camera, would result in, being unstable, so i just shot between my legs, cause this is looking almost straight down. That is a very vertical wall just to her right, and she didnt want to look over the side anymore, cause it made her..real dizzy. I didn't like the fact she was un-roped, but she kept saying she was ok, and to STOP asking her. you know how girls can get!!! (I'm sure she thought if the old man could do it, she could to!) It IS the fact she has confidence in her ability's, being very good with moves on the vertical pole. (grip) Thats something that comes with time, like climbing on Squire Creek walls for over 350 days. Im SURE i have climbed on ALL the pitches on your new route, except for in the middle. (not so sure) The belays were a function of sturdy bushes, trees, and solid cracks. Ken and i placed a lot of k.b.'s on illusion for belays. Another long, and one of my top 10 storys, of escaping death. (both of us had this escape happen to us here, on this part of the wall. You can not offend me, cause i enjoy being offended, cause..it makes me think..why was i offended? Yup, I try to be on the learning curve. I am so EXCITED about climbing Skitzo, because of the above/FIRST reply,(the 15th) mentioned reasons... Was wondering if you call it that, because of all the options you have to choose from in this area... It draws you here, and there... you want to go over there, but your here, and realize you should have gone over there... when you got there. Well, when climbing UP... thru, ... for your FIRST time... not hanging from a rope and looking around, for your FIRST time, being in the..area. (im talking about anywhere like this) Will never forget TEASING Dave, when he was hiking thru our property (parked his car there, heading up on the north ridge, on the old Harry Engels, Frank Loso trail, east of buckeye basin) , and i saw he had, at LEAST 4, long ropes with him, and he didnt want to tell me any thing about what he was doing up there... about 6 yrs ago?.... THANKS AGAIN Chris for putting bolts in here!!! i am sooo looking forward to climbing here again, which will back so many good memory's, of my FIRST times, climbing here!!! Will be my FIRST climb next year!!!!! HEEEE HAW!