Bigtree

Looks like someone was playing with a hydrojet machine during a lunch break.

Thanks for that sage advice smithisheaven - asshole. I'll try and remember that next time I'm climbing on a double rope set up, my buddy falls, zippers out 3 pieces instantly pooling 30' of rope around my feet and then rockets past me. Then again, I did think about it during my 4 hour rescue, the subsequent surgery, recuperation period... That said, and despite your needless and ill-founded barb, I was pleased that folks jumped in and offered some thought provoking information re: simul-climbing. While I may or may not chose to use the technique in the future I've learned something.

Got it Ade. I obviously missed the important nuance when perusing your photos. Good discussion/comments nonetheless. Thanks.

I was looking at Ade Miller's website http://www.ademiller.com/climbing/ referred to in his recent post: "Lots of pictures of the PNW" and saw a few pics of him and his mates simul-climbing. While not intended as a criticism of his choices in this regard, I just don't get the appeal or logic of it (for me). Sure you can move faster, but if either climber takes a fall the likelihood is that both end up at the bottom. I arrested a 15' leader fall rock climbing on the Chief at Squamish a few years back that broke my leg and ankle from the force (the rope looped around my leg/ankle as my buddy fell towards me and then torqued both after he bounced off my head and went zipping past for another 15'). If I hadn't have been clipped into the belay station (eg. simul-climbing) the incident would have been far uglier. Ya, snow/ice is a little different than rock climbing but a fall is a fall. Seems like simul-climbing increases risks to both climbers rather than decreasing them.

Maybe we should all wear these hunting dog collars instead. Regulators would love them as they could give climbers a shock every time they did something they felt was inappropriate/risky.

I can't believe I'm wasting my holidays like this on the computer, but the rain just won't stop. Here's my favorite model - only $350 US. I think I'd like them better if they came with a heads-up navigation/mapping display. Where is Phil (aka Mt. Hood/Mister MLU)? I'm sure he would like to see a new law requiring all climbers to be sporting a pair of these babies. "A festive looking running shoe with fabulous colorful accents Mesh upper that provide the proven light weight needed to be named a fashionable high performance satellite shoe. This hi-tech shoe comes with Quantum Satellite Technologies, GPS enabled devices locate in a hidden part of the shoes. On the right shoe you will find the emergency button on the lateral aspect and the Antennae properly positioned to locate satellite at any given time you the wearer needs any emergency help. This product consists of the following: GPS Antennae, Panic/Reset Buttons, DC Charger Harness Battery and other communications devices that enable the product to function effectively."

I'm not sure I'm ready to trade in my boots for a pair of these sneakers quite yet... "Design & Technology Company Isaac Daniel Introduces Quantum Satellite Technology Featuring GPS Modules Embedded in Sneakers, Boots and Shoes Advanced Technology & Style: MIAMI, Nov. 28 /PRNewswire/ -- A shoe that has the potential to save lives through its patented Quantum Satellite Technology with GPS tracking abilities, Isaac Daniel's Compass Global 1000-Inventor's Limited Edition pushes the limits of how technology can function in footwear. Providing peace- of-mind technology through its advanced people-finding capabilities, the Compass Global 1000 will make its debut in the U.S. in early 2007. Initially only 1,000 people around the world will own these unique and distinctive brand of sneakers that provide Advanced Technology & Style. (Photo: http://www.newscom.com/cgi-bin/prnh/20061128/CLTU017 ) The GPS technology, embedded into seven different men's and women's sneaker models with 19 color combinations, are outfitted with a microcomputer with satellite tracking communication that, in the event of a perceived crisis by the wearer, can activate a Covert Alarm Locator. The alarm generates an emergency signal to the company's ID Conex monitoring station, pinpointing the shoes' location anywhere on the earth's surface. The whereabouts of the wearer are then communicated to law enforcement authorities. The need for Daniel's line of Quantum Satellite Technology across a broad range of demographic groups has been proven. The company is currently in negotiations to market the Compass Global sneaker -- and in the future, boots and shoes -- to various military outfits, caretakers of those suffering from Alzheimer's disease, and parents who want the ability to keep track of their young children. The need for this type of sneaker has already been recognized by the public and the press with feature stories in The New York Post, Women's Wear Daily, and Fitness and Footwear Plus magazines. Created by inventor and designer, Isaac Daniel, the Compass Global 1000 is, says Daniel, "a ground-breaking product that is set to change people's minds about how sneakers can be worn and their purpose in our lives. The Compass Global 1000 is a sneaker for new realities in the new millennium." Many reservations for the first 1000 GPS-enabled sneakers have already been taken online at http://www.isaacdaniel.com/'>http://www.isaacdaniel.com/ with more orders coming in everyday. Daniel is sure the sneakers will create added value in everyday life, "Celebrities and the press have already recognized the radical difference this product will make in people's lives. The time is right for the Compass Global 1000 sneaker, now, tomorrow and in the future." Isaac Daniel CONTACT: Andrea Thompson for Isaac Daniel, +1-305-913-1342, or andrea.thompson@felefootwear.com Web site: http://www.isaacdaniel.com/"

I'm not certain what the numbers signify (I found the map on the web a year or so back while researching the potential trip). Regardless, you can easily create some decent waypoints from MapSource or some other gps mapping software.

I've never done it but its on my list next time I'm down south. Lots of good trip reports on the web if you do some searching. The Mountaineers Route is most appealing for me. Solo in Sept. seems to be quite doable from what I've read.

Clavote, I've got a Bibler I-tent with a vestibule and an Integral Designs South Col Bivi. Both are excellent products but they have drawbacks as well. The Bibler is pretty cramped for me (6"2"") or with a mate but does offer bomber protection from pretty much whatever is thrown at you - its my winter/spring tent. The bivi still makes me claustrophobic but packs down small, is half the weight of the tent and is pretty roomy for me - I use it as an emergency back up and go-light/fast spring/summer climbs.

Get up and dance...(he said it not me)... CkGg3XkN80U

A bittorrent client like BitComet (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BitComet) used in conjunction with a site like TorrentSpy (http://www.torrentspy.com/) or Demonoid (http://www.demonoid.com/) is a far superior way of access "free" music etc.

Cheesy music but you'll like the opening shot... I2EaH3wmlZo

Impressive - I think I would have packed up and called it a day.

I don't hate it; rather, I relish in the fact that I can externalize such costs when necessary onto the rest of society just as others do in return every day of their lives (e.g., smokers and fat people jacking up health care costs, a careless cyclist or pedestrian who gets pasted due to inattentiveness, inexperienced/urbanite hikers getting lost 200 metres into the forest requiring rescues on a regular basis, SUV drivers contributing to global warming...).

Here's a link to a good article regarding MLUs and the events surrounding the passage of Bill 3434 in Oregon a decade ago (I couldn't find a copy of the actual Bill): http://www.i-world.net/oma/news/rescue/athearn.html. Interestingly, the cost liability feature of the legislation seems to only kick in in the event a climber was found (no pun intended) not to be carrying a MLU, cellular phone or a two-way radio. Given the versatility (and limitations) of sat phones, cell phones and two way radios vs. a MLU or PLD, I still don't see a strong case made for purchasing/using an expensive one dimensional MLU or PLD; the exception possibly being where you might be injured and unable to work a phone/radio.

Yup, its a std USGS symbol as per: http://erg.usgs.gov/isb/pubs/booklets/symbols/; however, I have a hard time imagining those fellows rigging up anything but a short-term anchor under the circumstances they were likely faced with.

Yup, would have been nice to have one Phil. Same goes for a spare battery or two for their cell phone. Its also too bad they decided not to bring a sat-phone for each of them, a PLB or two, some honk'in big flares, extra food and water would have been nice I'm sure as would heat packs and a big fluffy down jacket and sleeping bag to keep warm. While I'm thinking about it, too bad they also didn't choose a less challenging route that would have made rescue easier/safer for the SAR-techs and too bad they didn't speak with someone as wise as yourself before heading out. Sure would have been nice. I bet you all three of them were thinking those thoughts when things got rough.

So, if you lost control of your motorcycle whilst speeding and crashed into a car killing the driver...if you slipped/fell while hiking and required medical assistance from SAR-Techs...if you banged your head on the ocean bottom surfing necessitating a life guard to come to your aid... I know your hypocritical holier than thou kind Phil.

You're certainly entitled to your opinions Phil, but you do come across like one of those fellows who is rather insensitive and lives life small and safe - I feel sorry for you.

Thanks for moving this post into its own thread gapertimmy and thanks to Kevin Matlock for clarifying the difference between a MLU and a PLB. While I'm sure both devices have their merits and advocates (e.g., DaveH's friend in New Zealand), neither device strikes me a good value for the money. Moreover, in my opinion, they likely create a false sense of security resulting in some folks potentially getting deeper into the glue. Of course the same could be said about a sat-phone; however, if you are thinking you need this type of back-up then I think a sat-phone is the superior solution by far for given the ability to directly communicate with folks on the "outside". Cost-wise, you certainly don't need to buy one for short trips given that you can rent them for ~ $10/day and $2/min call time. As for reception difficulties under tree cover - not much a concern for back-country ski trips or mountaineering.

I've had a couple of different GPS units over the years for work an play. Am currently using a Garmin GPSmap 60csx with MapSource topographic mapping software. The mapping feature on the device is excellent and has proven its worth to me on several occasions. Its also got expandable memory (a key feature in my mind) which has allow me to load/pack topos for pretty well all of Western North America, some down to 24K. Its got a compass and barometer that I never use (I still prefer to rely on my Silva and Thommen). Picked it up from http://www.gpscentral.ca/ (they are the cheapest store by far). I looked at the Rino line from Garmin but already have a variety of hand-held radios so no need go there.

I presume a MLU is the same as one of these things called a Personal Locator Unit selling for $599 US: REI has some specs/more info here: http://www.rei.com/product/47799529.htm

Clint did look rather dashing in his green construction, errr I mean climbing, helmet. Seems to me he was rather hard on his climbing partners as well.

You've had it in spades with Shrub... "I promise you I will listen to what has been said here, even though I wasn't here." "I'm the master of low expectations." "My plan reduces the national debt, and fast. So fast, in fact, that economists worry that we're going to run out of debt to retire." (my favorite by far) "Our enemies are innovative and resourceful, and so are we. They never stop thinking about new ways to harm our country and our people, and neither do we." "If this were a dictatorship, it'd be a heck of a lot easier, just so long as I'm the dictator."