Bigtree

Well if Shrub doesn't pardon him then perhaps his wife can run? The religious right would lap it up.

I absolutely agree it is an impressive accomplishment; however, when you stuff in seven peaks of that size into 6 months I really wonder how much "fun" it was. I would have been happy with any one of them in a given year and I certainly would have made sure I savored every bit of it - perhaps I'm trapped in my own paradigm and can't quite grasp trying to stuff so much into such a short period of time.

I'm hoping Shrub will pardon this guy so he can make a run for the White House. Now that would be fun to watch.

Clipped from Wildsnow.com: "The TLT (Tour Lite Tech) is a basic version that's been available for more than a decade. The Comfort model combines an improved heel with a slightly improved toe and adjusts for a wider range of boot length. Vertical FT and ST are the latest models, and are basically minor redesigns of the Comfort." Accommodating a wider range of boot lengths is helpful if you were to change boots (i.e., eliminates the need to re-mount the heel piece). The slightly different heel design of the Comfort also adds about 60 grams of weight. Edited by adding the following: "In alpine downhill ski mode, the Dynafit TLT binding places the heel of your boot 20 millimeters above the ski, and the toe about 12 millimeters above the ski (measurement is not precise because of difference in randonnee boot soles). The Comfort yields even more rise, with 30 millimeters at the heel and about 20 mm at the toe. Thus, not only do the Dynafit bindings provide fairly substantial "rise," but the lower toe provides more "positive ramp angle" for your boot sole, thus compensating somewhat for the neutral stance of randonnee backcountry ski boots. The theory of riser plates is that they provide more leverage to the ski edges by increasing the length of your lower leg "lever." I've meet few randonnee skiers who believe they need more rise than the Dynafit binding provides by default. Interestingly, in the 1970s some of the world's best ski racers felt that having their feet closer to their skis was better. They would grind down their boot soles and hollow out their boot interior foot-beds to accomplish this. In my opinion, both extremes, (rise or drop), are a waste of energy for a rando skier to worry about. I've skied on the Comfort, with its 30mm rise, and while I noticed being higher on the ski felt different in a turn, I didn't feel it made my skiing any better, or easier."

The speed/record is completely irrelevant as its basically just a function of commitment, conditioning and a lot of spare $. I'm curious whether he took the time to savour each of his summits or whether he just banged them off like a bunch of projects/shopping list.

Looks like the same basic design as my Bibler i-Tent, albeit slightly narrower by 2 inches. Lengthwise its the same and at 6' 2" I find that 82" is just a little cramped for my height. Then again, since the MK1 is designed as a 1 person tent you've got ~ 94" of length diagonally. Assuming similar quality of construction as the Bibler, it should withstand pretty much whatever is thrown at it.

I can't help you with guide recommendations but suggest you/your buddy get your hands on the Alpinist 16 as a start. Its got some good historical and current info. Here's some pics from their website (such a gorgeous mountain - I'd love to climb it): Thea east and north faces of the Matterhorn at dawn. Valais Alps, Switzerland. [Photo] Mario Colonel Climbers on the Hornli Ridge, the line Whymper and his party took on their first ascent of the mountian in 1865. Today this normal route from the Swiss side may see more than 200 climbers a day, and the passage of innumerable parties has left distinct traces on the rock, in addition to a multitude of fixed ropes. [Photo] Beat Perren The Solvay Refuge, constructed in 1915 at 4003 meters on the Hornli Ridge. Climbing the Matterhorn is a highly social affair; guidebooks recommend an early start for the mountain's normal routes to get a good place in line to the summit. Even the more challenging lines can still be relatively crowded. [Photo] Beat Perren

Super what! Looks like she couldn't pack her lunch let alone enough for an overnight foray. She clearly needs to eat some more food with a skinny ass like that. And what's with all that licking...

Clipped this quote referencing the use of Tiblocs from http://www.alpine-guides.com/alpine%20efficiency%20article.htm "The ultimate moving together skill, simul-climbing involves moving with most of the rope out on technical ground that would normally be pitched. Prussic devices such as Tiblocs are placed on runners above crux sections to hold the second should they fall - and prevent the leader being yanked off! Other runners are placed as sparingly as you dare to conserve the rack and increase the distance you can travel before regrouping. This technique requires lots of practice to perfect, and careful thought in using the Tiblocs to prevent rope damage. Limitations are: the size of your rack, rope drag and you ability to climb confidently without a belay! This is a great thing to practice on ice couloirs with the occasional bulge, as there are no rope drag issues. Simul-climbing has resulted in some awesome speed climbing achievements well documented in the press and is a great tool to have in your alpine skills box."

I was out last weekend on a new pair of BD GlideLite STS skins that have the same centre strip. I didn't experience any performance issues associated with leaving the strip on although I was slightly disappointed that my buddy could skin slightly steeper gradients with his narrower/much older skins before breaking traction. Could have been the extra 35-40 lbs I'm packing on my frame, then again I prefer to blame it on the skins.

Looks like someone was playing with a hydrojet machine during a lunch break.

Thanks for that sage advice smithisheaven - asshole. I'll try and remember that next time I'm climbing on a double rope set up, my buddy falls, zippers out 3 pieces instantly pooling 30' of rope around my feet and then rockets past me. Then again, I did think about it during my 4 hour rescue, the subsequent surgery, recuperation period... That said, and despite your needless and ill-founded barb, I was pleased that folks jumped in and offered some thought provoking information re: simul-climbing. While I may or may not chose to use the technique in the future I've learned something.

Got it Ade. I obviously missed the important nuance when perusing your photos. Good discussion/comments nonetheless. Thanks.

I was looking at Ade Miller's website http://www.ademiller.com/climbing/ referred to in his recent post: "Lots of pictures of the PNW" and saw a few pics of him and his mates simul-climbing. While not intended as a criticism of his choices in this regard, I just don't get the appeal or logic of it (for me). Sure you can move faster, but if either climber takes a fall the likelihood is that both end up at the bottom. I arrested a 15' leader fall rock climbing on the Chief at Squamish a few years back that broke my leg and ankle from the force (the rope looped around my leg/ankle as my buddy fell towards me and then torqued both after he bounced off my head and went zipping past for another 15'). If I hadn't have been clipped into the belay station (eg. simul-climbing) the incident would have been far uglier. Ya, snow/ice is a little different than rock climbing but a fall is a fall. Seems like simul-climbing increases risks to both climbers rather than decreasing them.

Maybe we should all wear these hunting dog collars instead. Regulators would love them as they could give climbers a shock every time they did something they felt was inappropriate/risky.

I can't believe I'm wasting my holidays like this on the computer, but the rain just won't stop. Here's my favorite model - only $350 US. I think I'd like them better if they came with a heads-up navigation/mapping display. Where is Phil (aka Mt. Hood/Mister MLU)? I'm sure he would like to see a new law requiring all climbers to be sporting a pair of these babies. "A festive looking running shoe with fabulous colorful accents Mesh upper that provide the proven light weight needed to be named a fashionable high performance satellite shoe. This hi-tech shoe comes with Quantum Satellite Technologies, GPS enabled devices locate in a hidden part of the shoes. On the right shoe you will find the emergency button on the lateral aspect and the Antennae properly positioned to locate satellite at any given time you the wearer needs any emergency help. This product consists of the following: GPS Antennae, Panic/Reset Buttons, DC Charger Harness Battery and other communications devices that enable the product to function effectively."

I'm not sure I'm ready to trade in my boots for a pair of these sneakers quite yet... "Design & Technology Company Isaac Daniel Introduces Quantum Satellite Technology Featuring GPS Modules Embedded in Sneakers, Boots and Shoes Advanced Technology & Style: MIAMI, Nov. 28 /PRNewswire/ -- A shoe that has the potential to save lives through its patented Quantum Satellite Technology with GPS tracking abilities, Isaac Daniel's Compass Global 1000-Inventor's Limited Edition pushes the limits of how technology can function in footwear. Providing peace- of-mind technology through its advanced people-finding capabilities, the Compass Global 1000 will make its debut in the U.S. in early 2007. Initially only 1,000 people around the world will own these unique and distinctive brand of sneakers that provide Advanced Technology & Style. (Photo: http://www.newscom.com/cgi-bin/prnh/20061128/CLTU017 ) The GPS technology, embedded into seven different men's and women's sneaker models with 19 color combinations, are outfitted with a microcomputer with satellite tracking communication that, in the event of a perceived crisis by the wearer, can activate a Covert Alarm Locator. The alarm generates an emergency signal to the company's ID Conex monitoring station, pinpointing the shoes' location anywhere on the earth's surface. The whereabouts of the wearer are then communicated to law enforcement authorities. The need for Daniel's line of Quantum Satellite Technology across a broad range of demographic groups has been proven. The company is currently in negotiations to market the Compass Global sneaker -- and in the future, boots and shoes -- to various military outfits, caretakers of those suffering from Alzheimer's disease, and parents who want the ability to keep track of their young children. The need for this type of sneaker has already been recognized by the public and the press with feature stories in The New York Post, Women's Wear Daily, and Fitness and Footwear Plus magazines. Created by inventor and designer, Isaac Daniel, the Compass Global 1000 is, says Daniel, "a ground-breaking product that is set to change people's minds about how sneakers can be worn and their purpose in our lives. The Compass Global 1000 is a sneaker for new realities in the new millennium." Many reservations for the first 1000 GPS-enabled sneakers have already been taken online at http://www.isaacdaniel.com/'>http://www.isaacdaniel.com/ with more orders coming in everyday. Daniel is sure the sneakers will create added value in everyday life, "Celebrities and the press have already recognized the radical difference this product will make in people's lives. The time is right for the Compass Global 1000 sneaker, now, tomorrow and in the future." Isaac Daniel CONTACT: Andrea Thompson for Isaac Daniel, +1-305-913-1342, or andrea.thompson@felefootwear.com Web site: http://www.isaacdaniel.com/"

I'm not certain what the numbers signify (I found the map on the web a year or so back while researching the potential trip). Regardless, you can easily create some decent waypoints from MapSource or some other gps mapping software.

I've never done it but its on my list next time I'm down south. Lots of good trip reports on the web if you do some searching. The Mountaineers Route is most appealing for me. Solo in Sept. seems to be quite doable from what I've read.

Clavote, I've got a Bibler I-tent with a vestibule and an Integral Designs South Col Bivi. Both are excellent products but they have drawbacks as well. The Bibler is pretty cramped for me (6"2"") or with a mate but does offer bomber protection from pretty much whatever is thrown at you - its my winter/spring tent. The bivi still makes me claustrophobic but packs down small, is half the weight of the tent and is pretty roomy for me - I use it as an emergency back up and go-light/fast spring/summer climbs.

Get up and dance...(he said it not me)... CkGg3XkN80U

A bittorrent client like BitComet (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BitComet) used in conjunction with a site like TorrentSpy (http://www.torrentspy.com/) or Demonoid (http://www.demonoid.com/) is a far superior way of access "free" music etc.

Cheesy music but you'll like the opening shot... I2EaH3wmlZo

Impressive - I think I would have packed up and called it a day.

I don't hate it; rather, I relish in the fact that I can externalize such costs when necessary onto the rest of society just as others do in return every day of their lives (e.g., smokers and fat people jacking up health care costs, a careless cyclist or pedestrian who gets pasted due to inattentiveness, inexperienced/urbanite hikers getting lost 200 metres into the forest requiring rescues on a regular basis, SUV drivers contributing to global warming...).