yikes

A similar thing happened to me in the same spot circa 2012. I rapped off the top of BOC on a unfamiliar rope that, unbeknownst to me, had been trimmed. I rapped down to within the width of my palm between my device and the ends, which didn't have knots. I was able to swing over to the sloping ledge and reach the intermediate chains just below Roger's corner proper. Phew. I reconsidered having faith in a higher power after that (to no avail). I broke my foot that same year on a short ground fall near the bottom of City Park. I was testing my solo rig on top of the little pedestal, when the shitty cam I was leaning back on blew out. I stumbled off backward and landed like a ballerina, toes point down. I realize now that I was probably rationalizing, "I'm not even climbing yet. I don't need to pay that much attention." Stupid.

I saw you two getting started as I was skinning up to the pass. Nice route.

Gold mine for a home wall crashpad. I looked for a deal like this forever a while back. I don't need it now. Thought I'd pass it on. Not my listing. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/5823572254.html

Pm sent.

I agree with Alex. I climbed for a few years in the Cascades and tried to mitigate avalanche risk by self-teaching, book learning, consulting NWAC, etc. Then, I started skiing more than climbing and decided to enroll in an AIARE level 1 course. It has been an eye opener, especially when it comes to decisions about micro-terrain features, group think, and how rapidly things can change out there. I realize now that in the past I just got lucky and "got away with one" or maybe even two or three... Be safe not sorry. A course may seem expensive and unnecessary, but it's not when you consider the consequences. It's not only your life that you need to think about but also that of your partners and other people that may be recreating nearby.

Other good resources for trip reports to common hiking destinations like Franklin falls are NWHikers.net and the WHC FB group. These groups are very active and post a lot of pictures.

I looked at this from afar whilst hiking up Snoqualmie with my dog on Saturday and thought, "Hmmmm, I wonder if that would go?" ... I guess so. Good on you, nice work my friend.

How is this a TR of Ingalls Peak ER? Shouldn't this be in Lost and Found?

link to back story

Awesome. Thanks! Edit: The hanger looks good. Can't assess the bolt

Any word on the cleaning of this route? Were the belay bolts updated?

I got curious and did some googling of my own. I found this critter http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Packs-and-accessories/REGLETTE?l=INT#.VXdDUlzBzRY I never used one, but this guy at least took a picture of a batshitty placement and has some credentials that suggest he might have stepped onto it. http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/bat_hooks

Rambles?

Good trip John. FYI to future TC suiters this year, I thought the ice step between the 2nd and 3rd was the thinnest.

I ran over my neighbor's dawg Nice clamberin HL et al.

April 1st is still a week away. I think you jumped the gun. I agree with JasonG that I often come here for the banter. PG forums don't interest me. That's what I live with in the 23.5 hours of the day when I'm not on CC or TGR. Can we please have an over 18 forum where sexuality and violence and the lowest common denominator are condoned?

ya mean "choking". oh no, maybe that's just me livin' in the midatlantic.

It has already been explained: [video:youtube] PS Thanks KR (if you're out there) for drawing my attention to this one.

Nice work Coach. It's obvious from your trip report that the North Cascades, like the DC area, have "zero redeeming values". J

I have some that I'd like to sell. Pics and what not here. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1108718/Re_Moving_Sale_Camp_Bike_Climb#Post1108718 I'm in DC now, but I'm willing to ship. Check out Jon's website and make me an offer. I don't think I'll be using these anytime soon.

throw a dog a bone

This is my last weekend in Seattle before I move to DC. I've been trying to soak up as much PNW climbing as possible. One thorn in my side is that I've never had the opportunity to climb this Index classic. I'd like to swing leads because the grade (10C/A0) is pushing my lead threshold. I'm willing to aid through it if need be. I've climbed a bunch at Index but never at the UTW. I only have Sat to play. Have rack, etc and can drive. Let me know. Jason

@D: Just saw your reply. I climbed it on the 6-29. I didn't think that block was long for this world. Glad it's gone now... assuming we're talking about the same one.

Anyone get a look at the moat on the WR of Forbidden? How open is it?

I know that saying watch out for a loose block on Sisyphus is like telling someone to watch out for shit in a barn. ...but nevertheless, this particular block sits directly above the hanging belay and seems to be a key hand hold. Its about the size of a breadbox and is suspended about 5 feet above the anchors at the top of the crux pitch (p6 or 7 I think). It wiggled when I touched it. I think it is the 5.9 mantle shown on the topo. I had to french free to get around it. I would have trundled it but I wasn't sure whether anyone was below. Not sure what to do. Maybe someone could forward this to the route developer or a local guide. Jason