Adventureboy

Does anyone know if the Central Pillar of Joffre has had any activity, looks like there may some intersting options on the right side. Hows the rock, McClaine seemed to think is was allright, but the photo in the book looked less promising. Thnx

Block Parrty, Ala Dave Turner

word to bunk-ness of the bellingham climbing, thogh.... If one is inspired there are gems in all of the bouldering areas probably 7 or eight truly great problrms all told. It's always sort of a quest to find and scrub sandstone doulders in the jungle amd beach.And the 'Ham is equidistant from squmish and index. The skiing is, well legendary when it's good the mountain biking is sweet ( i hear, but mt biking is barbaric sport)also an interesting music scene and a blooming art scene. Just don't move there for the climbing

thats f%^&ing metal! nice job guys, cant wait to get back there and slay some stone. sweet.

definately took the whip on Sagitarius long in the 'dex at the roof prolly close to 15+ feet on a pin that was pounded straight up and came out okay with all my limbs intact. though when i do clip a pin in a situation where it may take a fall or anytime for that matter i try to give it a good jerk and listen for funky hollow sound or marked movement pins a plus

awesome route, clean rock excellent position, need more be said?

beta abounds! sweetness

easter overhang supercrack meatgrinder, eventhough its not offwidth has some offwitdthesque movement

to get to indian beach drive south from seaside or north from tillamook, as to go to cannon beach. take the off-ramp and head towards town. before you get to town you get to 4 way stop. hang a right at the 4way and then take another right up a winding roaad that leads you to ecola state park. go right once you get past the gate as for going to ecola head and then your there after about abother mile of winding road. also if you maintain a low profile you can sleep there for free. just be sure to get up early before the host makes the rounds. i slept there for about a week and a half. but i also tried to get to the parking lot to sleep after dark besure to bring some brushes and a long stick to tape them to as well. all of the problems probably get dirty quite quickly

how was the descent? looks like just getting to the base would be a pretty serious chore. could you use the same descent if youclimbed the girthpillar?

what about: Techicians of the Sacred Sisu Mid wall cleaned Wild Board and Kieths crack last year also Abraxus, speaking of that.... has that f&%#$er seen a free attempt. my buddy aided it and said that most of that thing looked pretty freeable. hard sayin not knowin. what say you DC?

well fa or no fa it was sweet to go explore those problems with no outside info

who's ujahn?

tanks a bunch kevino

there are some good boulders south and north of indian beach. i think i got the fa.s of most of the most obvious problems between v2 nd v7. drive to indiann beach and walk south along the beach about a mile or so. in the process you go around a bend with one good arete porblem and further to the south are some bigboy problems, highballs probably harder than v6. further south through a bunch of boulders strewn about the sea you come to a sandy little cove with two obvious big boulders which both have a couple of ok problems. the big one on the left has a line that follows some raazor sharp little pumice bits from right to left and up a large prow about, v3 the sit is much harder. and a sick sitdown v6 further on the right of the boulder. immediately right of this boulder is huge rock with 1 v2ish slabby highstep route. around the sea side and about 15 yards further south is another boulder with a sweet v4ish sloper traverse and between the two is a coole jumpstart v3 mantel onto a chokestone between the two. also further to the north of this outcropping is a big highball arete probably 25 feet tall with a really cool line on the right side i did maybe v2/3, start as low on the arete as you can. to the north of indian beach is a really cool basalt outcroping about 200 yards long with some really cool highball problems, but, as all of the problems end in a band of highly brocken basalt bits at about 25 feet all of the problems end in really sketchy 58-5.9 freesoloing over broken terrain. here i climbed a 45 foot traverse that starts on rightmost section of wall and ends in a dihedral to there it faelt like about 5.12 and you could probably go all the way to the end wich would probably be quite hard. the arete where the traverse ends, v4 thin crack on the right of the arete, 5.9 and thin crack on the left, 11- but theres quite a bit of potential if you were to be bored. all of the routes i climbed required much cleaning, and are probably still gritty, also tide is a factor in climbing and reaching the sectors, as you can't climb if the tide is high. maybe i can give you some more specific answers after you go and find the areas.

thanks sol

i tried foolishly acoupla years ago, couldn't move past the bit where you make a big deadpoint from a fist jam, to a fingerlock. The feet look bad too. but then again there are the pods. couldn't touch it! maybe it'd time to try again.

thinking about heading to dragontail this weekend, and am wondering how much snow there is up there. Are Serpentine, Backbone or Boving still choked with snow or is it tennis shoe time?

Nice work, very sorry for the loss of one in the community, it was a good way to honor her.

Awesome to see youre pics. Congrats gentlemen, looks like you both earned it in the wide. It's always satisfying when you have to do battle with bigness. Just adds that much more to the memory.

Hey eric Nice pix that was a sick weekend. After ginny and sol showed up we went up to supercrack butt. and had a nice day of climbing. Did incredible, the wave, coyne, fingers in a light socket and super crack. Amazing is the only thing i can say, never placed that many .75's and number 1's consecutively. Hope all is well there in Flag and say whatsup to the Doctor for me. Ike

Thats really the problem with ultra solipsistic pursuits like climbing. The fact remains that there are tons of climbers pushing the envelope in one form or another that a "prize" like the golden piton becomes worthless in the face of all of the other people out there doing it. I guarantee that there plent of people out there that solo 5.12 on occasion that you don't even hear about. Let the spraylords have thier piece of gilted Steel and claim it as a trophy, There will alaways be unknown craftsmen.

Very nice boys Very nice. I grew up in eagle river valley about 8 miles from the visitor centre. your TR brings back memories from the formative years of my climbing life. Along time ago my partner at the time (now deceased) and i tried somewhat foolheartily to try to tag the west ridge but as we reached the headwall at the back of the ridge we quickly realized that in order to climb it the rock had to be frozen, it was so bad, just a huge rotting shitheap pyramid. Definately more than we were ready for at 17. If you are ever in the area in early season, winter or spring you should give the south east face of Kiliak a try up to Nantina Pt, when we did it there was a pitch of AI4 and some scrappy 5.8 chokstone adventure. though later in winter it just becomes an amble up avalanche prone slopes, and later in summer it becomes a gully of supreme death, belching copious amounts of stone from on high. Cheers!!

I always hate hearing about needless accidents, The entire situation could have been prevented. It also bums me out when i see posts by other folks on super topo that say we all should have an orientation to see who is fit to travel in the backcountry. Though.. I guess i have taken an avalanche course, and a high angle recue course. Which both have come in handy. Hmmmmmmmm. Maybe so?

Ahh the realative anonymity of the internet....