counterfeitfake

SHUT UP

Didn't they decide that was good for you?

I think I disagree. Why do you say this?

gin is so good

Actually it just looks like any normal cordelette with two knots tied in one leg. Certainly less complicated than that equalette craziness.

Does anyone use these for aid? Seems like the offset concept is good for pin scars but the U-stem isn't. I have a friend who manked up an non-offset TCU pretty bad by weighting it over an edge.

Of course figure eights do not fail. Neither do cordelettes. I will happily stand corrected if someone has some good counterexamples. Mr. Long makes a living selling books, does he not?

i think it's "if you fall you didn't try hard enough"

man, also, think twice before you tie in, figure eight knots fail, bowlines don't.

Yeah, wtf is up with that? Wasn't it supposed to be all crappy on sunday? Saturday we were rained out after 3 pitches. Yup! We stuck it out on Saturday (in the bar, drinking) and the drizzle blew through early enough for us to crag a couple more pitches in the evening. Sunday dawned bright and sunny. Don't believe the hype!

Good points have been made for the use cordelettes in this discussion, and those who are against using cordelettes will not address these points. Cordelettes win!

Today was gorgeous in the Icicle.

heck if I know. probably the stairmaster.

It also, obviously, doesn't simulate real hiking very well. But it is a good workout. Try going handrailless.

Why does someone always feel they have to say this when we've got a good weather gripe session going on? 1. Oh, hey, I guess the weather can be unpredictable and sketchy here. You have probably unlocked some deep truth here the rest of us didn't understand. And you're tougher than us. 2. No shit. 3. If you don't let weather dictate your life, you will die on a mountain in a storm.

SHITTY WEATHER STATEMENT COUNTERFEITFAKE'S WEATHER SERVICE 1021 AM PDT FRI JUN 8 2007 WAZ534-345-486-4842400- EVERYWHERE YOU WOULD LIKE TO GO THIS WEEKEND NO MATTER WHAT PLANNING IS FUTILE YER GONNA GET DOUCHED HOPE YOU LIKE GORTEX WELCOME TO THE PNW

Does the machine not have a vertical gain stat? The product manual for the Nautilus Stairmaster Stepmill 7000PT says: FLOORS is the cumulative number of floors you have climbed based on an average eight-inch step and 16 steps per floor.

Huh? The whole point of a cordelette is that it's simple and not a pain in the ass.

my all-time favorite: http://zangla.ytmnd.com/

kat you are on a ytmnd rampage

Trip: Washington Column, Yosemite - The Prow Date: 5/27/2007 Trip Report: Me and my buddy Mike climbed The Prow on Washington Column. It was good, pretty straightforward climbing. We both have about a year of real aid experience under our belts and managed it just fine. The fixed gear on the route is in good shape right now, and I was even a little disappointed that I didn't have to place any bashies or do any tricky hook moves. A little disappointed. We initially planned on spending two nights on the wall. After we got down to the valley we changed our minds and decided to ferry gear and fix some pitches on Sunday, spend one night in the portaledge and then one night on top. This went well. We fixed two pitches Sunday afternoon (could have done the third too). Monday morning we got up early and cruised until pitch 7/8 which we strung together, and which posed some minor routefinding difficulties. I cleaned this pitch in the dark. We set up the ledge on "Tapir Terrace" which was kind of disappointing, not really that bad but not as good as we had pictured. We might have found a better spot in the daytime, the topo doesn't make things crystal clear. The only real goof-up we had was when I was so in the groove leading pitch 9 that I blew way, way past the anchors (there are no bolts here, it's two pitons in a corner and the supertopo reflects this... i was just not on the ball). Mike started yelling when I had 25 feet of rope left, and told me about the lack of bolts on the topo. I was in a totally unacceptable place to build an anchor. I looked up and saw that I was about 30 feet away from the "5.0 gully" so I went up, pulled out some rope stretch and built big anchors in the parallel cracks. It turned out well actually. Do watch out for the haulbag eating flake on this pitch (pitch 10), a directional piece for the haul line is indeed necessary. Pitch 10 has a really nice belay station with a shady tree above it. Very good for napping. Hauling the fourth class crap at the top was pretty rough. We were on top at 5 pm and gorged ourselves on extra food, and slept under the full moon with a nice view of half dome across the way. The descent down the North Dome Gully is gnarly. Be prepared. We had a trip report and supertopo's instructions and we got down but it took forever and was a harrowing time. You might think about rapping Royal Arches or something. When we got down we were hot, sweaty, exhausted and fed up. We both decided aid climbing was for idiots. But I'm already thinking about doing some more. Sick. This is what an approach looks like. I think you've seen it before. There's our line. You can follow it up to the diamond-shaped shadowy roof in the very middle, then left and upwards along the lighter-colored streak. Mike leads the first pitch. Looking down from somewhere in the neighborhood of pitch 5. Mike belays while I lead. On the 'ledge in the morning. Half Dome across the valley. The anchor in the gully. On top. Mike is strong. Saying so long to the valley. Gear Notes: We brought whatever supertopo says to bring... it usually seemed like a little more than we needed. Hybrid aliens or something like that would make several of the pitches easier. Brought bashies and some pitons just in case but they didn't get used. With the weather the way it was we should have left sleeping pads behind. Approach Notes: Kinda strenuous but short. Descent Notes: Hold onto your butts.

Naked aid climbing? Aid climbing is not scary, it's just annoying. It could be scary and annoying for me if you were naked though.

Scary things get scarier when you're not wearing clothes. Spiders don't bug me unless I run into them in the shower.

ah. booty.

treasure?