counterfeitfake

There is a rap descent on the Snowpatch side of the Snowpatch-Pigeon col. I used it about a year ago, I think the bolts were all pretty new at that time. It was about 5 raps, and I'm quite sure it was set up for a single 60m (but it would be nice if someone else could confirm this). This descent was nice for a change in scenery and good if the B-S col looked sketchy for descending. But it was probably a lot longer route to take than the B-S col.

ding ding ding

Of course there's more to it- how far away is the climber? The closer he gets the less extension possible. Where is the belayer clipped in, and what with? With extension he falls too. If it's a daisy chain that's static, and if it's a knot in the rope, six inches isn't going to offer much shock absorption. How much other crap is hanging from the anchor? Haul bags usually get tied off with a static line. I think the more interesting and potentially relevant point with the sliding x is friction from the webbing running against itself.

Teenage girls LIVE to talk shit about other teenage girls. You shoulda embarassed her in front of her friends for using a word that doesn't exist.

Oh so we're gonna all stop talking out of our asses? Here's some more info. Apparently it's a spring that moves that sleeve. So it's not exactly a locking 'biner, but it locks and you can open it quickly with one hand. Makes sense when you have to pass an anchor every ten feet.

Looks like a screwgate with a wire to keep it from "cross-loading". Actually I guess an auto-locker would make more sense.

I am not sure I've heard anyone voice this opinion before.

maybe one is now

I'm not trying to accuse you of anything malicious. My point is that when you're talking about high grades, it gets really esoteric. Someone climbed 5.15. What does that mean? How long did it take? How many attempts? Does it have any bearing whatsoever on me climbing? Four people have climbed City Park and it's ONLY a 5.13c? What if someone ascends a line and calls it 5.17, and nobody ever repeats it? What are we even talking about? A friend of mine went to Splitter Camp in Indian Creek. He said Jim Donini argues that there are few real 5.10 climbers out there, climbers who are solid on any 5.10 demanding any climbing style. 5.13 overhanging face climbers might get shut down on 5.9 offwidth. Do numbers even make sense in this context? So yeah, it's just a bunch of numbers. It IS true that we want to label and number everything we encounter. And, it's something to talk about. But is it anything more than talk for most of us? 5.13a is a middle grade? Guess it depends on who you hang out with. I don't think I've ever even made eye contact with someone who can climb that hard.

Cobra crack is in a very well-known climbing destination and has been climbed by one dude. But it's 4 letter grades easier than what at least one person at your gym can climb? Whatever, it's all relative. I think 5.11 is hard. Maybe someone else thinks 5.11 is easy. Regardless, it's not as easy as spraying.

NOT a Northwest beer... but anyway, where can you buy it? I've only seen the 60 and the 90.

AND THEN PUT THEM ON MYSPACE AND GET CHICKS

Oh yeah! He left me a card, it's still in my pocket. I should email him.

That was us in front of you. Jared said the guy's name was Off. I was wondering if it was you. atypical "blue crack" photo summit poseurs

your rope is fucked

XKCD is SO great.

So I'm lookin at that thing... my harness weighs 14 ounces, that's 4 ounces more. 4 ounces of padding that means it won't kill me at a hanging belay. I use this harness for almost all the climbing I do. Do you really care about shaving off that 4 ounces? I realize that true adherence to the light-and-fast mentality means reducing the weight of everything you can. But at some point I think it turns into pointless gear dorkery and a waste of time and money. Maybe you're going light on each trip, but your gear bin at home is getting pretty heavy.

Yeah?

Is it hard to home brew an IPA? It seems like you'd just hop it a lot, I'm wondering why my homebrew buddies never attempted it.

I agree that Boundary Bay's Imperial is excellent. Hales Mongoose is very good, as is Diamond Knot's IPA. Snoqualmie Falls' Wildcat deserves mention.

your link is fucked. this one isn't

I think this is a really good application of the wiki/open source model. Cragging is something people do for fun, and people are willing to use up a ton of their free time doing their fun stuff and other things related to their fun stuff. If this website caught on for our areas in Washington it could be full of good info and kept more up-to-date than any guidebook could be. In fact, it looks like the Index section is pretty good already. And Leavenworth has a decent start, anyway.

Climbed Dreamer with a couple of "newbies". Man, there are some gripping sections on that route! I'd forgotten in the year since I first did it. Everyone did well, it was a good day out.

RULES HEAVILY