counterfeitfake

when they take the stupid black bumpers off they don't look so bad. It's one of those cars that looks much better in person. And with the top down.

It does not look like a Corvette. Unless you are asserting that all closed-wheel enclosed-cabin sports cars look the same.

Quite possible. Yes. Also, doy.

The glacier is in pretty good shape. Few open crevasses, but there was evidence of some barely-covered ones. HELL NO the summit gulley is not skiable right now. Not even close.

Having only climbed Dreamer, I am not eminently qualified to talk about Darrington grades. But I can say that I think you would call Dreamer a 5.10b.

seriously what are you guys talking about

Your rating system is intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

Niiiiice. I remember going to Devil's Tower on family vacation years ago, and being baffled at how it could be climbed. Now it looks so inviting. That van is probably the dopest thing I have ever seen.

I know that this happens. It doesn't make it correct. We have a system, and the rule of the system is supposedly that a route gets it's grade from the hardest move on it. I am not particularly invested in this system, except that it is what we are all ostensibly using. We should be consistent. If the YDS isn't good enough, and we feel the need to compress more information into a grading system, we will end up with a horrible clusterfuck like British grades. I would much rather read: "Trezlar: 5.9, sustained. This striking dihedral is vertical or overhanging for it's entire 100 foot length, and has few moves easier than the grade it is given." than "Trezlar: Hard Very Difficult 5a." And it's beside-the-point quibbling, but isn't BOC given 5.10a by almost everybody?

I normally don't play "pile on the new guy" but this statement bothers me, and I've been hearing a lot of this crap lately. The rating of a climb has nothing to do with it's protection. It only has to do with the difficulty of a climb. The "R", "X", "PG13", or :: speak to the available protection. If it feels 5.9 on toprope, it's 5.9. You don't need a harder grade in a book to lead it, you need bigger balls. Let's get a bit real here instead of playing rating aesthetics semantic games. Any sustained enduro route is going to be easier on toprope. The act of placing gear takes time and energy, which is more than an inconvenience when racing the pump. And that is why a route cannot be boiled down into a number. That is why guidebooks have words in them besides the route name and grade. That is why topos say things like "sustained" or "pumpy" or "bold". A route is not supposed to get a higher grade because every move is the same difficulty. A route does not change it's grade depending on how you are climbing it.

IT WOULDN'T BE ANYTHING IN THE VALLEY BECAUSE GRANITE DOESN'T CRACK THAT WAY.

If I remember correctly: Get your left hand solid. Move your feet left. Push and reach faaar right. Seems hard for 5.10a, but the rest of the route seems easy.

I would be scared of Asgaard Pass.

Ken, if you had any pictures of that I would be EXTREMELY grateful.

Crag.

This weekend is also going to be a pretty bad one for being on snow, see the avalanche advisory that was recently posted.

Stop taking Dru's bait.

ahhhhhhhh

And yours is coming back up...... Yup. In this photo you can SEE how much more substantial my spray is than yours.

Yup, it's pretty straightforward. The raps are basically right in the middle of the wall that forms the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord. More good beta. I skiied down the gulley two days ago. It was icy snow. I bet even after a warm couple of weeks it will be mostly snow. Depending on the temperature when you go it could be slush or it could be hard ice, no way to say right now. So you might want crampons and/or ice axe- I was glad to have my axe with me. It does face west and gets afternoon sun. There's a lot of snow up there. The climb is likely to be at least damp in places.

Wow. Did the bolts look okay? What route was it?

Are you guys going to have sex, or just talk about it online forever?

There should be a signal-to-noise statistic in the database. Kevbone's is fucking minimal.

gross!