spotly

Sweet! Thanks.

The road is clear to the west side TH (Horton Ridge)?

Planned spooning....I just can't.

Only if you're willing to risk decking in a fall. Assuming this is Prime Rib, the route is well bolted and some might say "over bolted" but what you're saying would be like free-soloing, which is fine if that's what you're into. But lest someone get the wrong impression - you cannot skip 4 or 5 bolts in a row on any pitch on that route and be protected....at all. The longest pitch is 130 feet of 5.8ish and takes 13 draws. I would not climb it with only 2 pieces of pro. But that's me.

Yeah, I think it's the same thing. (the one in my avatar!), Here's some pics: Highway Rock

There's a nice trad route next to the highway at Highway Rock called Washington Pass that's 5.8. Takes 2 ropes to rap. Cross the marshy area at the end of the inlet that seperates the rock from the highway, directly next to the large pull-out then head left for 40 or so yards to the obvious crack. Pretty nice route. Take a 4" cam. The guide book says you can continue to the top (5.8) as well. There are a few other (though stiffer) cracks in there and plenty of real nice bolted routes as well.

Took off at 6 this morning but called it quits when it became obvious the clouds were getting darker up north. Turned out nice in Spokane so now I wish we'd gone anyway - who knows. If ya get up there, lemme know how the road is.

I agree. Even though I keep mine hidden as best I can, it's still a huge risk. Gotta figure out a better way.

Well, there was a chick there with a dog who kept yelling "come, come" but I'm sure I've got the spelling correct.

It was lively the times we've been there but with all the heavy camping goods (BBQ grill, chairs, coolers...) the walk-in camping woulda sucked. Plus, big fire with marshmallows and beer...mmmmm.

I've usually got tons of gear hanging out in the back seat of the truck just-in-case we get good enough weather to climb after work. Sometimes I have it in there at the TH too, just-in-case we need it for craggin on the way home from a hike or climb. This is a good reminder to me to check with my insurance company to make sure my stuff is covered and what kind or documentation I need in case it's stolen. Don't have most of the receipts anymore. Anyone else here ever had their gear ripped off - what kinda hoops did your insurance company put you through as far as porving what was stolen? Hope your friend is insured and/or gets his gear back.

Me too.

Showed up yesterday to a closed parking area. There's room for 2 cars just east then the next parking available is near the dam. There's a movie crew there doing some filming and they have a permit to close the parking off. They ran some climbers away from the main face and even tried to kick us off the wall. It appears they have a permit for the parking area but not for the county park so climbing is still available and they'll be done after Friday. Just a heads up.

Our plan too. Best weather is for Saturday but can't get out till sunday (possible thunder storms). If you're out and back in time to post something Saturday, I'd appreciate it. Hoping to play on some snow slopes on the way in.

We did. Setting it up for aid but ran out of gear. We'll be back soon though. I red flagged it so climb at your own risk. Oh, and feel free to use my portaledge halfway up pitch 3.

True, but we didn't head into this undertaking lightly. Months of training and planning should have ensured success. We missed the window however. Perhaps next year...and with a camera crew.

Yes.

Trip: The Tooth - Date: 5/19/2007 Trip Report: A few of us headed up to do The Tooth on Saturday. We had planned on getting onto the route late in the afternoon, doing a bivy up top then heading back down Sunday morning. The drive from Spokane was fast...as usual. Last time we did the climb, we took the trail around the right side of the creek then traversed above Source Lake and up to Great Scott. This time we followed the path in the snow to the left of the creek then up near the left shore of the mostly frozen lake. Snow was in great shape - hardly any post-holing. It was steep getting up to Pineapple Pass but great steps. Had to climb over a huge chunk of snow, ice and debris at the top. Then it started to snow and the temperature dropped...alot. It took us 2 hours to reach the main route and by then, the snow and ice had covered the rock pretty good and we elected to do a double rope rap back to Great Scott then head home. Denied. Stopped for burgers on the way home and go back to Spokane around 2 in the morning. Gear Notes: Bivy bags, 2 ropes, M&Ms Approach Notes: Rainy but good snow.

Anyone been up there yet? Is the west side (Horton Ridge) road clear to the TH? Approach/route conditions? Thanks

If I wanted to hear about nothing other than "noteworthy" climbs I'd subscribe to one of the many rags out there that give way too much attention to routes I'll never climb and 5.14 climbers I'll never hang with. I wanna read about "ordinary" adventures that I can relate to and I want to able to share my non noteworthy accomplishments with others as well.

Nice job. I'd like to get over there this year too, preferably before it gets way too hot. How were the ticks - I hear they get pretty bad there? Couldn't find alot of beta on-line for that route other than it runs 5.8ish. Any other easy-to-protect 5.8ish or less routes in there that might be fun? How long was the drive from here?

I've been there once during early summer and the route was obvious - follow the trail to above Source Lake then cut across the slope well above the lake to the trees, up a gully to Great Scott then on to Pineapple Pass blah blah. Anyhoo, we plan on heading up there next weekend in the late evening and bivying so, since I have a bad memory, I decided to look up the approach in the "Selected Climbs" book to see how long it would take. I noticed (if I read correctly) that the book says to go below the lake to the ridge then up through the trees. Is that correct or would the correct approach cut across the top of the lake? Also, how long (average pace) does it take to get to Pineapple Pass? How were the snow conditions up there last weekend? Thanks for whatever you have.

Those numbers illustrate my point too. It's a legitimate observation/question and I'm simply asking if it's valid. As for the numbers, they're just examples but if anyone is compelled to take them as literals, they can borrow my tape

You're good....and bad.

If you place your first at 12 then tried to place your second at 22, it seems like you'd deck if you fell before the clip. Assuming you have no other reason to place pro other than distance (no ledges, bulges and so on), wouldn't something along the lines of 10, 15, 25, 35...ensure against a ground-fall?