Kraken

The perfect high (the kind where you're still able to function yet are in that perfect sublime state) on a sunny day. Sipping on Moose's Tooth Fairweather IPA (an Alaskan-only brew) is nothing short of orgasmic as well.

cascades or olympics? Gotta put this in the right thread CaveApe, but it's your first post so we'll let it go. Just need more info so we know what you're referring to.

that picture of the goat is now my background. Hope you don't mind. Awesome picture.

are you guys on the emmons seeing very many Alpine Ascents International groups up there?

Let's climb. Anytime is good for me, I am just sitting at my lake house. It's either climbing or wakeboarding. I don't care what route, I've already done the DC a week or so ago. I'd be interested in the Kautz, Mowich, Emmons, Success. I don't care. Call me, I won't be able to check this forum very much. (907) 227 3291 or (360) 275-2181

SWEET shots! Those came out really nice.

wow, that's pretty neat in both perspectives!

yep, if you want the experience but don't want to fight the masses, climb in the off season. The objective is harder and there isn't a soul around to save your ass if you eff up

someone said 'leave earlier if you don't want to be held up' well...I decided to do the DC earlier last week. The team I met up with at Muir was by my side. We all were up at 10:45 and left by 11:30. A team of 9 from Stanford, CA wanted to be the first on the trail so they left a few before us. I knew they would hold us up and would slow us down...sure enough they did. They were almost to Cathedral Gap by the time we left Muir and we caught up to them at Ingraham Flats. They didn't let us pass until the mid section of the Cleaver. They ended up turning around at that point and wasted an hour of our time. If you're a slow party and you see that you are holding up a team behind you, step off the trail or give a motion to pass on the side. It isn't an ego thing. We still summited in 5 hours, but if that team hadn't of slowed us down we could have made it in well under 4.5 hours.

What rolls down stairs alone or in pairs, and over your neighbor's dog? What's great for a snack, And fits on your back? It's log, log, log It's log, it's log, It's big, it's heavy, it's wood. It's log, it's log, it's better than bad, it's good." Everyone wants a log You're gonna love it, log Come on and get your log Everyone needs a log log log log *whistle* LOG FROM BLAMMO

sounds good man, if i get a chance i'll give you a call when i'm back in town!

divot, i'd love to, but i'm still in washington DC. I'm not sure i'm going to make it up to Rainier again before I head up to Alaska but i'd sure love to.

It's weird being here in WA DC where they call a mountain a little hill that rises a hundred feet. I'll do the emmons the first week in august

nothing this week unfortunately...I'm in Washington DC until Saturday, and back on saturday night. I'd like to do the Emmons once I get back and maybe do the Dissapointment Cleaver once more with another group of kids I met from Poland at Paradise. All in all, I just wanna be on Rainier/

uhh...pickets...a few locking biners...a few. pullies, one each prussiks...two each ...not falling in a crevasse...priceless

Ohhhh right yeah...I didn't see those eggs, but I heard about them...and I think I smelled them yesturday while roped up...ewwww

Hannah if the weather is good the first week of August and you're free for a few days, we could do the Emmons. I don't know though, I may want to go do something over in the Olympics. Yeah...I realized there are other mountains besides Rainier

Heh, I was in the green North Face Nebula and the other guys were in the yellow North Face Mountain 25 and a Walrus tent, on the east side of Muir. Hope we weren't too loud

Climb: Rainier-Dissapointment Cleaver Date of Climb: 7/15/2005 Trip Report: After getting blown off the Kautz last week, I was still itching to summit Rainier again, so on Wednesday, I headed back to Paradise and registered as a 'Hook Up Only' to climb to Muir. On the way up, I met up with a few guys and we kept meeting up every now and then. I was carrying a heavy pack that weighed in excess of 50 pounds (tent, pickets, tools, food, etc) and it took me four hours on the dot to reach Muir. I met up with a guy named Riley, who was in the group with the other two I'd met before. He quickly invited me to join his team (with me included it would be six in all) to climb the Dissapointment Cleaver. I had never climbed that route and although it is known as the standard route, it sounded fun. The last two climbers in the team got up to Muir late, at about 10:45 PM, while the rest of us arrived 3 hours earlier. Seeing as how these guys were going to be extremely tired, we opted to wait a full day and start our summit bid that next night. Thursday was spent sunbathing and relaxing in the sun, it was an absolutely immaculate day. There wasn't a single cloud to be seen anywhere on the horizon in any direction. I got really burnt on my legs, threw rocks at the Camp Robbers all day, and watched the rockfall bombard the path under Cathedral Rock. A shit ton of people came up that day, a bunch of teams attempting the DC. We knew some of them were going to be slow and we had to leave early. We finally decided to be up at 10:45 and on the trail by 11:45. I never slept, just layed there. At wake up time I shook everyone up and we got ready. A team from Stanford college left before us...all nine of them. We left 15 minutes after they did to give them a headstart. By the time we reached Ingraham Flats to put our crampons on, we had been on their tails for five minutes. We couldn't get past them and ended up being stuck behind them for more than an hour...moving at a pace that would drive a slug crazy. The rest of the teams were far below and we could see their lights at the Flats as we were on the Cleaver, at a practical standstill behind the Stanfordians in the rockfall area. Finally...FINALLY, we reached the top of the cleaver. The team stepped aside to change gear and we took a 30 second breather, then promptly stepped out in the lead. There were several awesome crevasses on the route with skimpy snow bridges and it made for a little excitement. I once heard the bridge shifting under my foot...and thought how cool it was to be out there. Weird thought, I know. I was roped in the back and Riley was in the front, as we were the strongest two climbers. The other four were pretty damn tired and slow moving, but we kept them going and held the lead by more than 1/2 mile. We later learned the Stanfordians turned around at the top of the cleaver. We reached the crater rim a few minutes before 5:00 AM, just as the sun erupted over the Cascades. The amazing mountain triangle shadow spread out perfectly to the horizon in the west. It was quite a sight. The trip down was uneventful, we passed a bunch of groups from 13,500-12,000 feet. At Ingraham Flats, an older woman greeted us on the route with a handful of Jolly Ranchers as a reward for our trip. It was great! We arrived back at Muir at 9 AM, only to discover that the other guys' tents were gone...vanished...who knows. Turns out, they had blown away...all the way down the Cowlitz and into a crevasse. My tent was left standing since I had anchored it properly. I packed up and wished them luck with getting their stuff out and rocked it all the way down the snowfield to Paradise in less than 80 minutes. All in all, it was a fantastic climb. Never would I say it was a 'hard' climb in any aspects. It was however, a beautiful climb with incredible crevasses and seracs. I had more fun than I thought I would on it. I was just happy to be up on the mountain. Gear Notes: Pickets (never used them but could come in handy if a snowbridge is out) Approach Notes: There is tons of rockfall between Gibraltar rock and the Cathedral Gap. Move fast and watch out. Also, there was tons of rockfall scattered around the Cleaver, as is expected.

I heard a story about these two guys high on PCP who decided to play russian roulette with a shot gun.

right on man. Gotta love the little T

scary stuff. I'll look for that when I am on the route in a few days. I haven't climbed the DC or the ID yet so it will be good to do it, even if they are standard. I've already climbed the Gib ledges this winter and the Kautz...got blown off, but oh well. STill wanting to do the Emmons. I just want to see schurman and the steamboat prow. Any word on how the victims are doing?

why'd you start your summit climb at 7 and not earlier?

I heard a story about these two guys high on PCP who decided to play russian roulette with a shot gun.

...and this was in Washington, not Alaska...not that it matters.