David Trippett

From: http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html Grade conversions - Bold Routes The table below has been adapted to take account of the unique nature of bold traditional climbing. Not all traditional climbing is bold but where there is a danger associated with a route due to the lack of natural protection, the grade comparison tables often fail to give a realistic impression of the actual difficulty. A route with limited or poor natural protection will have a much higher E grade than the actual technical difficulties on the route would merit. For example the route Indian Face at Cloggy in North Wales is graded E9 6c yet it is about 7b+(sport) on a top-rope, which doesn't fit into our normal conversion table very well, however a fall from the Indian Face would be fatal which is where the E9 comes from. The American 5.XX system caters with bold routes in a different way. They are given a grade and then a single letter suffix - 'R' for run-out routes and 'X' for really dangerous chop routes. ie. a 5.10a and a 5.10aX would be the same difficulty but the second one would be a lot more dangerous. BRITISH TRAD GRADE - The grade is divided into two parts: The adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, ...to E10). This gives an overall picture of the route including how well protected it is, how sustained and an indication of the level of difficulty of the whole route. The Technical grade - (4a, 4b, 4c,....to 7b). This refers to the difficulty of the hardest single move, or short section, on a route. The British Trad Grade appears to be a mystery to those used to other systems and is thought to be the most versatile system by those who use it regularly. In practice it is now only used for traditionally protected routes (routes where you hand-place your own gear or where there is only very limited fixed protection - bolts, pegs, threads). How to recognise a dangerous route from the British Trad Grade - Any route with a high E grade and a technical grade lower than the one indicated at the top of the bar in the table above is likely to be poorly protected. (eg. E1 4c, E2 5a, ... E6 6a, E7 6b). This is only a general indication though since routes can also be bold within the parmeters indicated above.

agreed!!....just did it again today with a newb in tow and its pretty damn rad... anyone hemming and hawing that leads mid 10s should just go for it

they're both 6 pitches...yes? I bet they're roughly the same length. Grand=traverse, pillar, sword, perry's, flats, sail flake (+bolt ladders) DHLA=5.9,10a,10c,10b,10c(high traverse),5.9

a single 70 will get you all the way down without problem

Rad!

BTW....has DHLA been soloed?

freeway is the shit, probably my favorite route anywhere.

yes, and I think that's the best way to do it.....but those aren't part of "the Grand" no shame in taking Bellygood off....that's a classic pitch! Try it facing out.

The point here is not to slag off on the Grand, but to credit what a fantastic route is DHLA.....The Grand is great..... and my opinion is not shared by many, but DHLA is a better line....one of the best on granite at the grade in the west.... Adding Cruel Shoes/Apron Strings and the Chimneys makes for a super classic day.....but they're not part of the Grand proper Every pitch on DHLA is arguably a classic, whereas the Grand is puncuated by bolt ladders and jingly-jangs that , for me, detract from the overall quality of the route. At any rate....You can't go wrong with either route.

Pillar and Sword are 5 star....and better than any individual pitches on DHLA .... IMO

the rat photo is amazing...one of the best ever....but, last time I checked rats had claws too.

The Grand Wall proper(from the top of Mercy Me to Belly Good) has been touted as one of the classic hard moderates of N. America. IMHO, as a line the Grand Wall leaves a lot to be desired, no one will argue the classic nature of several pitches....but as a line DHLA takes the prize, the view is fantastic, the climbing consistently steep and high quality...and no bolt ladders. If you're climbing 13s then perhaps a different argument could be made.....but you're not, or you would be out climbing and not reading this garbage.

Any word from our man in the Karakoram?

Coupled with the poor weather this summer and injury it has been difficult to find regular partners and thus some continuity to my climbing here in Squish. Starting from next week until the weather turns shit and I head south, I'm looking for partners for any day of the week to climb in Squamish. Trad routes to 11+ and follow to 12-...I would like to do: Southern Lights, Tantalus Wall, Freeway(again), Grand Wall/Roman Chimneys(again)...and general cragging as well...but I am DELIGHTED to do easier(or harder) stuff as well.....so, if you've been thinking about that trip up here....c'mon up! Let's climb. I have all my own gear and know Squamish purty well. References available

they skipped the Crest...Matts arms were cramping too badly after leading ~30 pitches

that sucks.....come up to squamish this week

Not your criteria, but evocative none-the-less Hand of Fatima Emperor Face Arete des Cosmiques Continental Shelf Lay Lady Ledge Smear of Fear Infinite Spur Diamond Couloir Rakekniven (the Razor) Ama Dablam (Mother's Necklace) Supercaneletta Ames Ice Hose etc...

An ultra-classic! I was just having a laugh on that one with a mate from Wales on Saturday. We then went about guttering.

indeed

c'mon you know it's glandular Rudy!

I took a 70m fall directly on to my 1 RP belay and it failed! WTF!?

I have trango S and they are great. Scarpa has a similar offering as well as madrock... but...for the bugs....aluminum strap-on poons and some light approach shoes are the way to go

Great TR, thanks!

good idear....see you there